Picked up a '72 CL175 with a spark issue. Got that sorted and adjusted the valves, cam chain, points gap and set the timing to the F mark. I cleaned the carbs and checked the float height.
It doesn't want to hold an idle. I've tried several different settings on the mixtures screws, from 7/8 turn all the way to 1 3/4 turns. I thought for a minute there that it needed more turns out because of the nearly open (barely baffled) pipes, but it soon went back to doing the same thing. Occasionally, it will get stuck at ~3,000 RPM.
I also tried going in on the idle screws until they were all the way in. I've now backed them out equal amounts.
I've read about the slides being in the wrong side. I left the slides on the cable and kept them on their respective side of the bike. And when I was syncing (by using a flash light to check slide gap at rest and at WOT), I could see what looked to me like a normal small gap at rest. Now...it IS possible that someone before me has them swapped. I DID line up the long groove on the slide with the pin in the carb(s) and the wider groove with the idle screw. I guess it's possible to still have them on the wrong side?
The air filters are old and dirty. I cleaned them off with a toothbrush (dry) and blew them out with compressed air, inside and out. They should still be OK, I would think.
I also suspect the advancer, maybe? I checked it during the tune up and the springs *may* be a little on the weak side? But that should cause it to advance early and idle high, which it isn't doing. Ditto for air leaks.
I set the floats to 22mm. I've since learned that they should be 21mm, but I don't *think* that 1mm would cause this. If anything, the fuel level would be a little lower, right?
I did see a cracked throttle tube that I will replace. But...again...not sure it's the culprit.
And while the LH bowl is leaking, the RH carb is fouling the plug.
I think I will pull the carbs again and have my friend Rick at OldSkoolCarbs do his thing. And I'll verify slides are correct and get the fuel level/float heights correct. Other suggestions?
It doesn't want to hold an idle. I've tried several different settings on the mixtures screws, from 7/8 turn all the way to 1 3/4 turns. I thought for a minute there that it needed more turns out because of the nearly open (barely baffled) pipes, but it soon went back to doing the same thing. Occasionally, it will get stuck at ~3,000 RPM.
I also tried going in on the idle screws until they were all the way in. I've now backed them out equal amounts.
I've read about the slides being in the wrong side. I left the slides on the cable and kept them on their respective side of the bike. And when I was syncing (by using a flash light to check slide gap at rest and at WOT), I could see what looked to me like a normal small gap at rest. Now...it IS possible that someone before me has them swapped. I DID line up the long groove on the slide with the pin in the carb(s) and the wider groove with the idle screw. I guess it's possible to still have them on the wrong side?
The air filters are old and dirty. I cleaned them off with a toothbrush (dry) and blew them out with compressed air, inside and out. They should still be OK, I would think.
I also suspect the advancer, maybe? I checked it during the tune up and the springs *may* be a little on the weak side? But that should cause it to advance early and idle high, which it isn't doing. Ditto for air leaks.
I set the floats to 22mm. I've since learned that they should be 21mm, but I don't *think* that 1mm would cause this. If anything, the fuel level would be a little lower, right?
I did see a cracked throttle tube that I will replace. But...again...not sure it's the culprit.
And while the LH bowl is leaking, the RH carb is fouling the plug.
I think I will pull the carbs again and have my friend Rick at OldSkoolCarbs do his thing. And I'll verify slides are correct and get the fuel level/float heights correct. Other suggestions?
