Supergyro
Active Member
Hi all - I am wiring up my '76 CB360 after the PO snarled up the harness with poor soldering and hockey tape in his attempt at a "simplified" cafe harness.
My question revolves around the ignition push button. On the wiring diagram for the original right hand controls (long gone on this bike), it seems there was a switch to cut power to the headlight and running light. However, the ignition button only interrupted ground for the starter solenoid. I thought it was standard practice on these old Hondas to cut the lights while running the starter. Was this treated as a manual operation with the 360, hence the off switch?
Does the 360 even need lights cut while the starter runs? It would be easy enough to place a SPDT momentary switch on the power side of the starter relay that provides power to the lights in the Open position and then juices the relay when actuated. In that case, the neutral and clutch switches would still provide the safety features as they close the loop to ground when activated.
If the lights don't have to be cut, the job is even easier... I just throw a momentary push-to-start switch between Y/R and G/R replicating the stock bar switch.
I'll be grateful for any input, particularly regarding whether the bike needs the lights cut while running electric start. If my verbal description is lacking I may be able to mock up a diagram of the current and proposed circuits.
My question revolves around the ignition push button. On the wiring diagram for the original right hand controls (long gone on this bike), it seems there was a switch to cut power to the headlight and running light. However, the ignition button only interrupted ground for the starter solenoid. I thought it was standard practice on these old Hondas to cut the lights while running the starter. Was this treated as a manual operation with the 360, hence the off switch?
Does the 360 even need lights cut while the starter runs? It would be easy enough to place a SPDT momentary switch on the power side of the starter relay that provides power to the lights in the Open position and then juices the relay when actuated. In that case, the neutral and clutch switches would still provide the safety features as they close the loop to ground when activated.
If the lights don't have to be cut, the job is even easier... I just throw a momentary push-to-start switch between Y/R and G/R replicating the stock bar switch.
I'll be grateful for any input, particularly regarding whether the bike needs the lights cut while running electric start. If my verbal description is lacking I may be able to mock up a diagram of the current and proposed circuits.
