Kneeler Project
- Thread starter Erskine
- Start date
That's a nice fit and now all one-piece 
Will your stock upper rear shock tower still operate on the left(looks like you have plenty of room there) or will you need to fit that side rear shock differently? Have you chosen a fiberglass cockpit for it or will it be an open chair ?
Will your stock upper rear shock tower still operate on the left(looks like you have plenty of room there) or will you need to fit that side rear shock differently? Have you chosen a fiberglass cockpit for it or will it be an open chair ?
Erskine
Over 1,000 Posts
grcamna5 said:That's a nice fit and now all one-piece
Shock mounts will be the standard ones, there's loads of room. Also need the main frame completely returnable to standard so as to keep the insurance companies and MOT people happy, hence not being able to weld straight on to the frame. However a sidecar is considered purely an accessory and in the same class as fitting a rack or a screen!
Plan for the chair is to fit a nose cone, and will cut that shape out of a steel bath. If it's too heavy I shall use that as a mould and fibre glass one from it.
Erskine
Over 1,000 Posts
grcamna5 said:They classify it as an add-on/accessory?? ask them to drive both types and they may change their mind.
I think the mounts I've made should hold it. There are lots of clamps available for old British bikes of every shape conceivable, but bikes then were made with sidecar attachment in mind.
Yep, it's an odd classification that a chair is an accessory but I'm not complaining.
Steff - check out "Ragged Edge Racing" for super cheap race GRP.
Erskine
Over 1,000 Posts
beachcomber said:
I've seen their stuff, I think my bike will be too tall. And their mudguards are for front exit unfortunately. I may try a pressed steel trailer mudguard and blank the inner side with a sheet of ally. It's only got a 12" wheel. Or an upside down polycarbonate toilet cistern tank lol
pacomotorstuff
Coast to Coast
For the hack wheel, look around your local aerodrome for an old airplane wheel pant to repair / modify.
I've made some for aircraft and am dying for one of our local sidecar racers to try one out, but so far, no luck.
Pat
I've made some for aircraft and am dying for one of our local sidecar racers to try one out, but so far, no luck.
Pat
Steff,
That will work if you grind of the "top" of the brace so that is fits down a little closer to the swingarm. What it effectively does is to double the depth of the swingarm. Grinding off the top allow you to weld better down each side of the tube. Angle the open ends and don't have a sudden change in section which acts as a stress raiser like the edge of a cliff. That was almost exactly what I had on my CB77 race bike.
The other way to brace a swingarm is to make a shallow (say 2" deep) brace similar to the triangulation of the monoshock arm on P1 but only say 2" deep at the front. Like this one
That will work if you grind of the "top" of the brace so that is fits down a little closer to the swingarm. What it effectively does is to double the depth of the swingarm. Grinding off the top allow you to weld better down each side of the tube. Angle the open ends and don't have a sudden change in section which acts as a stress raiser like the edge of a cliff. That was almost exactly what I had on my CB77 race bike.
The other way to brace a swingarm is to make a shallow (say 2" deep) brace similar to the triangulation of the monoshock arm on P1 but only say 2" deep at the front. Like this one
Erskine
Over 1,000 Posts
teazer said:Steff,
That will work if you grind of the "top" of the brace so that is fits down a little closer to the swingarm. What it effectively does is to double the depth of the swingarm. Grinding off the top allow you to weld better down each side of the tube. Angle the open ends and don't have a sudden change in section which acts as a stress raiser like the edge of a cliff. That was almost exactly what I had on my CB77 race bike.
The other way to brace a swingarm is to make a shallow (say 2" deep) brace similar to the triangulation of the monoshock arm on P1 but only say 2" deep at the front. Like this one
Thanks Teazer. I'm on the same page now! I prefer the idea of a more discrete brace that the more obvious triangulated design. I was wondering about taking the top section out of the tube for greater contact area and there is a step down fron the swinging arm gusset to the arms.
Erskine
Over 1,000 Posts
That's the next big problem .... Finding shocks with a forked bottom mount that are shorter.
The ride height I want requires 10 1/2" so say 11 allowing for 1/2"sag.
Fronts will be 13 1/2 again allowing for 1/2" sag.
Spring poundage ...... Dunno.
May have to see what hagons can do, I'm finding nothing on the shelf for the rears,
For the fronts there's lots to choose from.
For the chair wheel, either something v v stiff or will go solid.
The ride height I want requires 10 1/2" so say 11 allowing for 1/2"sag.
Fronts will be 13 1/2 again allowing for 1/2" sag.
Spring poundage ...... Dunno.
May have to see what hagons can do, I'm finding nothing on the shelf for the rears,
For the fronts there's lots to choose from.
For the chair wheel, either something v v stiff or will go solid.
