Down under, an idiot and a 400F

No probs PJ. Will straighten the 2 ones left and hit it with the heat and anti seaze over a few days and then try the double but thing again.

This bike is a nightmare! Everything that could be a pain is. Oh well.
 
If you have a welder, you could put a 17mm nut over the broken stud hole and fill it up with weld.
Quite often works
Don't even THINK about an Easy-Out
 
crazypj said:
If you have a welder, you could put a 17mm nut over the broken stud hole and fill it up with weld.
Quite often works
Don't even THINK about an Easy-Out

Easy-Out is not an option. Used them twice and broken them twice. Completely farked the removal after a HSS Easy-Out is in the pilot hole.

Going to try my luck with these last 2 and if I struggle I am going to send the case out to be done properly by a shop. Don't want to ruin the case so will give it to a pro I think.
 
neevo said:
No probs PJ. Will straighten the 2 ones left and hit it with the heat and anti seaze over a few days and then try the double but thing again.

This bike is a nightmare! Everything that could be a pain is. Oh well.

Since I am not sure if "anti seaze" is Oz-ish for penetrating oil I just wanted to verify...
Here, Anti-seize" is a lubricating paste that is applied to threads when INSTALLING a bolt to keep it from siezing in the future. It is not for free-ing up an already siezed fastener.
You want a pentrating oil of some sorts,
 
Ah ok, sorry for the confusion. I have rust penetrating spray designed to free up oxidized metals.

A simple guide to Oz-ish is to abbreviate everything to "something-o".

Is this instance it would be "seize-o" or "pen-o". Add the odd "fair dinkum" and everyone will think you are a true blue Aussie,
 
"pikies! I farkin hate pikies!"

Aussies aren't a bad bunch, once you get the lingo down and the obscene level of alcohol/meat consumption, it's easy to integrate.
 
I know it is generally advised against using these as you don't want to scare up the studs but since you bent them already try to find one of these...

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-drive-stud-extractor-94640.html

Put it right down at the case level and see if that gets them out. It will put the torque right there at the threads instead of all the way at the top of the stud, which will twist as you turn it.

Second thought, guess a vice grip would work just as well now as you should be replacing those bent studs anyway.
 
and she's terrible partial to the periwinckle blue boys....

See if you can get your hands on some stuff called inox. I know a lot of people that swear by that stuff as a penetrating liquid. That stuff would free up two randy rabbits jacked up on smack and viagra any day of the week.
 
Will do Staffy, saw that Inox at Bunnings and thought it was just a WD40 alternative. The "pen-o" ;) doesn't seem to be working anyway even with heat and hammer blows.

If that doesn't work I will take it to somewhere to get it done properly.
 
What a weekend, no Internet and my iPhone crapped itself and needed restoring. Turns out I am not built for a life without modern communications ;)

A good weekend of doing stuff on the bike. Bit more polishing of switch housings. Some of the buttons are broken but I will do some custom jobbies to get them working again. I cleaned one side out and it's working well, I do have 1 spare part though so if anyone has a resource on how they go back together point it out. Left side:

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Right side with push pull housing for throttle. I also have another housing for the throttle that is just a pull type. What is standard on the 400F?

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Started my swingarm brace with my 2mm 1" tube left over from the frame repair. Don't have a pipe bender so went for death by a thousand cuts. Very happy with the result and it will look great once all the cuts are welded and ground back:

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Another problem found this weekend. Looks like my swingarm is bent 10mm can anyone confirm? The rear wheel mounts don't appear to be in line with the bike. The right hand side one is 10mm too high too.

What do people think. Do the ends of the swingarm appear to be too far to the left? How can I measure properly?

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Tried to tweak it this weekend but zero luck as its built bloody tough. Will need some heavy duty tools if I need to get it back to straight.
 
Put wheel in and check chain line, Rocan had an issue with his 350 and had to cut a chunk out of brace
400f never had single cable, I would use it though ;)
 
That's an idea !
Never seen a brace on top before though.
Should solve the problems i had foreseen with my CB500 with the chain and brake rod. ::)
 
crazypj said:
Put wheel in and check chain line, Rocan had an issue with his 350 and had to cut a chunk out of brace
400f never had single cable, I would use it though ;)

Will do PJ, clearance seems pretty good though as I aligned the bottom of the brace where it intersects the chain with the top of the old chain guide. Will do a dry run test fit before I weld it up though.

Will keep the single pull throttle then, not sure why it was put on, it's nicely polished now anyway so it will look pretty.

Any thoughts on how to check if my swingarm is bent?
 
Ends of fork where wheel fits look parallel in pic, the differences in bend are probably normal, I haven't done a 400 for long time though.
Chain side is often 'straighter' so it doesn't bend when you accelerate (compression as wheel tries to 'pull' forwards)
A bent tube will spring slightly, more bend, more spring
 
When you put the wheel and chain back on to check the brace clearance, check the rim is vertical and the chain line for the sprockets is true. If that checks out, the swingarm is fine.
 
neevo said:
Will do Staffy, saw that Inox at Bunnings and thought it was just a WD40 alternative. The "pen-o" ;) doesn't seem to be working anyway even with heat and hammer blows.

If that doesn't work I will take it to somewhere to get it done properly.

Buy a whole bunch of bolts a little smaller then the snapped ones and tig weld onto. Turn and it's out. Painful and slow but best way before you snap easy outs. Had to do that for 2 dozen stripped off another bike
 
Today was a reasonably successful day. Managed to use a heavy duty press in a family friends workshop and remove the bend out of the swingarm. A big crowbar at the father in laws and we had removed the twist in it too. Should be pretty straight now, only thing left to do is weld up some dents and grind them back and weld on the brace. I suspect the brace is not high enough so I will be getting an off cut of tube to raise it up even more. Shame I have none of the tube left myself as the extra I need is so small. Oh well at least I can put 2 uprights in now.

Also fabricated an Alu rear engine mount to replace the steel one and match the front ones I did:

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On the bike:

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