Down under, an idiot and a 400F

Results from this afternoon. It turns out the Alu rod I bought was 6.14mm not 6mm like the original puck. I spun the rod on the belt sander to bring it down in diameter slightly and it gave it a nice brushed look too.

Here it is cut to size:

68C172F0-3E72-4EF0-9F59-CC11675D377D-934-0000008538788F71.jpg


Next I tidied up the ends a put a slight chamfer on the edges:

51640B72-9B27-46FD-A1A0-A123A482705F-934-000000853E724BC1.jpg


Perfect fit:

827DF604-C3BF-492F-A323-F2537EBA5E64-934-000000854B1260DD.jpg


AD2033E2-9002-4C9C-8044-EC945F089D40-934-000000854FAEFA9C.jpg


Next I tried making some brackets for the battery strap. 1 piece of steel with 2 bends in it. Going for button head bolts as they are low profile and won't damage the battery as they will be put inside the battery box:

BBFC3746-1515-436A-8BE6-34DF63B87477-934-0000008554B62018.jpg


Mounted, and they work very well:

473F0C93-C669-471A-ABF5-9D0BC49FE939-934-000000855A9BAB4A.jpg


Next up was test fitting the electrical components under the seat:

0C97F932-3292-4E0F-9C55-272658D4BA34-934-000000855FA3F32A.jpg


E623F124-6589-4986-8029-027A383631E5-934-000000856467D6C5.jpg


This side has been left for the 3 relays, they should fit:

A6A8A0DA-34A6-4075-AF88-C79B320E89B8-934-0000008569354AF4.jpg


Light mounted and the seat goes on with no trouble:

976EF072-2DC2-465E-B509-A34548EA9EC6-934-000000856D982B56.jpg
 
Steve F said:
Looking really good :) Battery box is tidy I need to make one for mine.

Cheers
Steve
Click to expand...


Thanks Steve, happy to help out if you need it, mines not perfect but I can stick bits of metal together for you if you need?

I'm always surprised at the size of the battery box, I'm using an 8 cell Ballistic battery for the final bike (which is what the box has been made for), the one in there at the moment is from my 2 stroke KTM and its pretty much the same size.
 
That starter solenoid is a loooong way from the starter motor. It might be better to have it close to the starterwith a short thick lead.
 
teazer said:
That starter solenoid is a loooong way from the starter motor. It might be better to have it close to the starterwith a short thick lead.
Click to expand...

That's a good point. It's that or a MUCH larger wire than stock. Those Virago's had that problem. Usually you swap them with a larger gauge wire and they work much better.
 
Neevo, terrific build thread; I've read the whole thing.

Regarding the battery box, would it benefit you to turn the battery around and mount the electrical components on the seat pan side? It seems to me that it might be easier to route the solenoid cable and other wires that way.

Perhaps I'm missing something. In any case, I'm learning a lot from your experience.
 
MotorbikeBruno said:
That's a good point. It's that or a MUCH larger wire than stock. Those Virago's had that problem. Usually you swap them with a larger gauge wire and they work much better.
Click to expand...

I will do that as I don't have anywhere else for it now the airbox area is clear.
 
Weldangrind said:
Neevo, terrific build thread; I've read the whole thing.

Regarding the battery box, would it benefit you to turn the battery around and mount the electrical components on the seat pan side? It seems to me that it might be easier to route the solenoid cable and other wires that way.

Perhaps I'm missing something. In any case, I'm learning a lot from your experience.
Click to expand...

Cheers, its a huge meal to get through but hopefully gives people the idea you can start with no experience and get something done still.

I can't mount parts to the other side of the battery box unfortunately as the rear of the seat is curved, so the space gets smaller the further up you go. That being said you have room at the bottom so I might see if the solenoid will fit there. Won't save a huge amount of length on the cable but it would all help.
 
Keep solenoid as close to battery as possible, the starter cable is only used intermittently (when you start bike ;D )
Use welding cable, 3ft or so won't have too much voltage drop ;)
 
crazypj said:
Keep solenoid as close to battery as possible, the starter cable is only used intermittently (when you start bike ;D )
Use welding cable, 3ft or so won't have too much voltage drop ;)
Click to expand...

Cheers PJ! Any idea why gauge that would be? I assume somewhere in the 9-10mm range.
 
Slightly heavier than stock would probably be a good idea although stock size will also be fine, 400 won't need too much amps to push over (even with big bore kit)
Cable is measured by number of strands and strand thickness ( I think in wire gauge size?)
I can't remember starter wire 'sizes' wiring harness is 18/6, 28/12 stuff like that, 6 strands of 18 gauge isn't as flexible as 12 strands of 28 gauge, but, it doesn't need to be flexible so lower count of thicker wire will be fine
 
crazypj said:
Slightly heavier than stock would probably be a good idea although stock size will also be fine, 400 won't need too much amps to push over (even with big bore kit)
Click to expand...

Cheers mate. Stock is 7.5mm so I will make sure its min as heavy or a bit wider if possible. No harm in getting 9/10mm if I can get it. Bit less resistance on the grounding side too.
 
If you want to hide it you can also run two smaller cables and route them different ways, it doesn't have to be one big one.

Cheers
Steve

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
 
Steve F said:
If you want to hide it you can also run two smaller cables and route them different ways, it doesn't have to be one big one.

Cheers
Steve

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

That's a cracking idea!!

Finalising my wiring diagram this evening, swapping out the brake light relay to run the coils.

Simplifying the joints in the system and wondering if I can run 2 wires into the 1 bullet connector? Pretty sure someone mentioned it earlier but wanted to double check. I can solder the wires first to stop them coming apart.
 
Actually I should add a disclaimer to the two wire thing, if they are not capable of carrying the amps by themselves and one of them has a poor or no connection there's a possibilty the other wire will catch fire as I'm assuming there's no fuse between solenoid and starter. If you do run two wires make sure they are both capable of carrying the AMPS drawn by the starter by themselves just to be safe.

Cheers
Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom