$50 mod thread

Bouncer,

The spade provides an opening large enough to let a finger(s) or pants leg possibly inside. The beauty of the holes is that even when "swiss cheesed" to max it still provides the necessry safety factor.
 
I use super glue for every cut! even used it on my fiance the other night when she sliced her hand open on a broken glass cup in the sink, works awsomly they used it in the army and they still use it in midwife (home nurse) birthing when the Vajayjay rips too much they just glue it back.....funny but true.

Glue some brass mesh behind the spade!
 
I've used black pepper on some bad cuts that won't stop bleeding it seals it right up and makes the blood clot.
 
So this is more of a repair than a mod but it can save a lot of trouble, frustration and money. Upon my CB200's rebuild, the starter button decided to take a crap on me (the button stuck), so I was going to take it apart and like the quote below it "took a crap in my hand". I no longer had a switch but small pieces of a once was switch. Itead of buying a new/used control from eBay or who knows where, I went up to RadioShack and bought myself the smallest "Momentary" switch they had. Depending on your model of bike, you'll prob need a switch/button with three connections, a ground (the center wire) and the lead to the starter and the lead to the headlight. If I remember correctly the headlight wire was green in my case and the starter wire was yellow/red. Simply sauder the three wires to the back of the switch, allowing the headlight to run as the constant, which gets "momentarily" enterupted by the red/yellow starter wire when the button is pushed. The one I purchased from RadioShack fit right down in the slot for the original switch (with a little coaxing). I wish I had taken pictures but I was frustrated and was more worried about getting the switch to work again.

This is a link to several momentary switches RadioShack has, mine was the first on this page (three prong)
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=momentary&origkw=momentary&sr=1

calmoc9 said:
Searched and couldn't find anything. What have you guys done to replace/repair the starter button? How many amps was the stock one rated for? Opened up the whole assembly tonight and the plastic casing that held the switch took a crap in my hand.

scott
 
when we get to 15 pages i will sort this and organize it... then repost it all up...
*just wanted to give a bit of an update*
 
JRK5892 said:
easy fix... glue some screen on the inside man, will still look cool an have the protection you need

My thoughts exactly Joe.


I wanted to do something different then everyone with the "holey" look.
 
ya man just use some silicone on there and you will be all good... if you want... i have a TON of screen... from what i needed to make my v stack screens... you can have whatever you need... what you got going on this weekend? i am going to try to make it into the shop... if i can ill knock out your rotors for you
 
I got tired of looking at the big black plastic switches on the Yamaha XS650, Man what ugly crap things they are!! so I replaced them with switches from a Brit Bike shop. For about 20 bucks I got a reproduction switch called a TriCon. It has the horn button, a high/low dipper, and a red kill button that I used for a starter switch. It all fit on the left side between the grip and the lever perch, and they really cleaned up the bars. I also dumped the right side that had the on/off, and starter button, now I just run a key switch that I mounted under the tank. After getting rid of those chunks of crap and the stock instruments the head stock area really opened up and looks a lot better. I also used a Amal style thottle tube to replace the Yamaha tube.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
 
I would post pics but, quite frankly, I'm embarassed to show my garage!! When I get going on a project I don't even think about putting shit away or sweeping or anything, I just focus on the task at hand. My shop where I teach school is far more orgnaized and cleaner than my garage!!!! I hope that doesn't make me a bad person, but this weekend I'll cleanup a bit and take some pics. Believe it or not it's cold as hell here in North Florida this week, not Chicago or Toronto cold, but cold for us pussy boys in Floriday.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
 
Terry said:
I would post pics but, quite frankly, I'm embarassed to show my garage!! When I get going on a project I don't even think about putting shit away or sweeping or anything, I just focus on the task at hand. My shop where I teach school is far more orgnaized and cleaner than my garage!!!! I hope that doesn't make me a bad person, but this weekend I'll cleanup a bit and take some pics. Believe it or not it's cold as hell here in North Florida this week, not Chicago or Toronto cold, but cold for us pussy boys in Floriday.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.

cant look any worse than my garage or some other folks garages on here :)

cold in florida, what is it around 50 degrees ? ;D
 
Nope, here in Jacksonville we're more like south GA. We just pretend to be tropic. Going down in 20's tonight and that my northern friends is plenty cold for N. Fla. , just a balmy day in Toronto! When I worked in Chicago back in the late 70's I remember getting out the T-shirts when it hit the 40's, not so nowadays!!

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
 
And by the way, I love Toronto!!!! One of the nicest places in N. America. I just love it more in the late spring and summer.

Terry
J'ville, Fl.
 
Terry:

Can you explain some more about how you removed the light cluster and relocated the key ignition? I'm trying to figureout how to get rid of the light cluster and just have the key ignition so that it gives me more room to lower my tach and speedo for a more streamline look. Any info would be appreciated.
 
adamrjordan said:
Terry:

Can you explain some more about how you removed the light cluster and relocated the key ignition? I'm trying to figureout how to get rid of the light cluster and just have the key ignition so that it gives me more room to lower my tach and speedo for a more streamline look. Any info would be appreciated.

I did something similar on my kz650 build. I removed the cluster completely, bought 2.25" mini gauges from www.mikesxs.com, flipped my headlight bucket upside down so it had room inside for the key switch, then I installed a single LED for the oil light (being the only idiot light I cared about keeping from the stock cluster). Here's a couple pics of the process and complete set up. Total cost....$0!!!!
headlightbucket.jpg

gauges2.jpg

gauges.jpg
 
JRK5892 said:
my buddy ICE came up wiht this one... works great i use it all the time to clean up wires and get it together:
Cheap alterative to the billet clamps and other bought stuff. Use zip ties and tuding to create your own spacers. Turns out to be shock mounted too.

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this ones for you JRK:
IMG_0407.jpg
 
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