Yes, another CB360 Project - BRGT

Wangofree said:
Nate - It's a joke. I just stacked unused wires on bike for grins. The only thing left to wire up are turn signals and the headlight.

Whew! I thought it was a joke... but it wasn't funny :) I've been asked to help with real wiring jobs that looked similar... yikes!
 
Can't wait to hear her cackle!

Gonna be a nice enough day I may mine out with kid for a little ride since we have a 4 day for Easter. ;D
 
frogman said:
Can't wait to hear her cackle!

The time has arrived. I hooked up fuel lines, turned on the petcock, and she started to leak gas out of the petcock and weirdly enough, out of the right carb overflow tube. Not sure why that was happening.

I cranked her over a few times and she started up. The bike sounds like it's not where it needs to be. I have a timing light, and I'll be tweaking her soon. My main concern is whether I'm getting oil up to the top end. I put some oil in there before starting it up, but there's a lot of noise coming out of her. My biggest fear is that it's not getting oil, or it's so out of tune that it's tearing itself apart! :mad: I hope that's not the case.

I need to fix the pet cock, check for gas leaks, time it as accurately as possible, and check the valve clearences again. Worst case if I can't get her humming, I have a local mechanic that's been working out of his independent shop for 43 years, primarily on Honda's.

While waiting for youtube to finish uploading my video, here's a few pix of my custom headlight bucket. It's painted silver, but that's not the final color. It will be either BR Green or Black. It still has some mods to go, but you can see where the ignition switch goes and a rough idea of what it will look like. . . I fabbed up the stainless, but handed the welding over to a local shop. No way I could weld it up that clean.











Alright, without further ado, here's the video of me running the bike with Viet's EI. Warning, it takes about a minute to get her going. . . she starts at the 2:02 mark.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hURblX3JgdI
 
NOOOOOOO it sounds GOOOODDD!!!!! That's what they sound like with one exhaust! Sorry Rather excited for you!

Float level on the side that is leaking is too high OR you have a cracked overflow tube check both! SO close! Promise!

Sorry yeah I'm a bit lit and happy cause me and my 360 did 5000 miles today. Well owned and ran that is. They are awesome bikes once you get them dialed in.
 
frogman said:
NOOOOOOO it sounds GOOOODDD!!!!! That's what they sound like with one exhaust! Sorry Rather excited for you!

Float level on the side that is leaking is too high OR you have a cracked overflow tube check both! SO close! Promise!

Sorry yeah I'm a bit lit and happy cause me and my 360 did 5000 miles today. Well owned and ran that is. They are awesome bikes once you get them dialed in.

I should be more excited, but I spent the whole day moving my mother-in-law into a new apartment. After a day of that it kind of saps your enthusiasm.

But, Frogman, thanks for the encouragement! So, does it sound like it's missing when you say it's running on "one exhaust"? Crazypj worked on my carbs, so they should be good to go, but I may have to check the float level.

Glad you've found your groove with your 360. Looking forward to following your lead!
 
check those valves asap, tapping piston bad thing.
next time you fire it up just drum your fingers lightly across the headers close to engine. You can tell real fast if she is running on both cylinders.
Im sure you just got a sticky float. rap the side of the carb w screwdriver handle. and it will usually dislodge or knock any debris out thats causing the sticking.
re-set your cam chain tensioners now before proceeding w timing. (trap bolt on crank w wrench during the cam chain reset) so it cant turn when guides snug up on chain...this is actually 1 of many great tips I got from PJ.
 
I feel really happy with your introduction on my EI. In my experience, you could just make some simple check as there should be either EI fault or carb over gas.
1. On the engine side that is not running, you pull the spark plug out and plug a new spark plug to the ignition wire, leave the spark plug on the engine, turn the switch on and make some kick, If EI works, you will see the electric ignite on the spark plug.. If the EI works then you check the carb. Screw the spark plug back to the engine.
2.first, gas leaking is mainly due to the floating valve is dirty or faulty. Open the carb bowl, push up the floating, and turn the pet cock on, if gas still running in then you need to repair the valve.
You better put the air filter out, then turn on the pet cock, leave the gas runs to the carb till it over flow then cut the gas flow into the carb under checking by using a plier on the gas line. Open the carb bowl with care so when you get the bowl out, gas still there, check the gas lever, on mikuni carb, there is a mark, gasoline level should be around that mark.
If gas is too high just adjust the floating level.
Hope it works out.
If EI fail, tell me and I will send you a new sensor plate.
Thanks a lot
Viet
 
Thanks Trek and Viet for your suggestions. I will definitely check out each of these before I fire it up again.

Mike
 
Encouraging... yeah, top end is chattering a bit... Took me about 4 tries to get the tappets set well, it's not as forgiving on the 360 as some engines.
 
Yeah, that will definitely be my next job, check and recheck them. I decided to follow your lead Nate, ordered a whole new petcock assembly.
 
There is a problem with the EI. The rotor is too thick and damages the sensor. I have sent repair kit to Mike. This problem out of my estimation
Mike, could you please help posting the photos you sent me so other members to know it.
Any one who buy this kit for cb360 need to know and I will send them repair kit. Just email me only.
Thank you Mike, you great man.
Viet
 
Viet said:
Mike, could you please help posting the photos you sent me so other members to know it.

Viet

As Viet indicated, there was some rubbing of the magnet rotor with the sensor plate. Here's the photos he requested:







I'm sure his adjustment will take care of the issue. He has generously sent a replacement kit.

Thanks Viet! :D

Mike
 
3DogNate said:
Get any more done on the bike?

No, I've been working the last 12 days on refurbishing my mother in laws house so she can sell it. Long days spent shooting paint, laying flooring, fixing electrical and plumbing issues. 2 weeks of my vacation. :(

I hope to have the new ignition plate and sensor installed soon, but first I have to recheck my valves and adjust if necessary.

Have you installed your new EI from Viet?
 
Well, like most of us, life has gotten in the way of what we REALLY want to do. I've tried a few itterations of Viet's EI, and as helpful as he is (really a great guy to deal with) I wasn't able to maintain the timing. I suspect the system works, but my installation just wasn't meant to be.

I've installed the points and the bike starts up, or rather it did start up great last week. Before I finish up the wiring of turn signals and tail lights, I wanted to verify the charging system. (I've read Sonreir's, CrazyPJ, searched and read a lot of other posts on checking the charging system). Here's where things get interesting.

I installed a Kohler integrated Reg/Rec unit, and I believe it is (was?) doing the job. I'm getting about 2 - 3 ohms across the stator connections. But when testing the voltage, what I'm now getting I believe defies the law of physics:

With the ignition "on", I get a little over 12 volts:



In the background you can see the Kohler unit, and the positive lead is plugged into a charging lead, and the negative is touching the ground (Don't be fooled by the red wire, it's a ground. Red was the only color I had that is 12 gauge). 12.88v, about what you'd expect.

Now the weird part:



With the engine NOT running, and the meter set for 200 AC volts, I'm reading 24.7 volts! I'm wondering how can that be? The stator is dead still with only the battery dc voltage running through the system.

Not content with this result I checked it with a different meter:



About the same, 27.9 AC volts. I am not an electrical engineer, but I assumed that without the stator turning the AC voltage would be zero.

As I move the positive probe to each of the 3 inputs I get the exact same voltage, 27.9 ACV.

I want to check the voltage of the stator with the engine running, but I can't get it started at the moment. I've had the gas tank on and off a lot the last few days, so I'm thinking it's a carb issue. I've checked the spark and I'm getting a nice hot blue spark on both sides.

I would greatly appreciate if anyone has some thoughts on the stator, or the Reg/rec setup. The Reg/rec is wired with the pink and yellow wires going to the outside terminals, the center terminal is wired to the battery circuit, and the unit body is attached to ground.

Thanks guys.
 
Bizarre. I'm not intimately familiar with the inner workings of the Kohler R/R unit, but I suspect you're chasing a red herring. Do you get a reading when checking DC? Also, I assume your white wire is spliced with the yellow?
 
I'll have to check which wire is going where. I'm not sure if I spliced white and yellow together, or just eliminated the white wire.

I was able to fire the bike up. Checking the voltage on the R/R unit I was getting the same voltage AC, 27.9. I revved it up and not much change.

I checked the voltage on the battery and as I revved up the engine the voltage when from 12.6 to 13.01, 13.2.

That sounds like we're in the ballpark, but I'm puzzled too on the AC voltage. Just not sure if it's where it should be.

Thanks Matt.
 
Wangofree said:
I'll have to check which wire is going where. I'm not sure if I spliced white and yellow together, or just eliminated the white wire.

I was able to fire the bike up. Checking the voltage on the R/R unit I was getting the same voltage AC, 27.9. I revved it up and not much change.

I checked the voltage on the battery and as I revved up the engine the voltage when from 12.6 to 13.01, 13.2.

That sounds like we're in the ballpark, but I'm puzzled too on the AC voltage. Just not sure if it's where it should be.

Thanks Matt.

Eliminating the white wire will also eliminate some of your charging capabilities. I'd try to fix it, if that's the case.
 
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