KDX 200 Project thing

What is the major difference between bondo and dynalite to where this wouldn't work? You have much more experience and I'm sure you are right, I'm just curious because I know a lot of people use bondo!
I have heard both negative and positive things, especially with cars.


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CaferacerMO said:
What is the major difference between bondo and dynalite to where this wouldn't work? You have much more experience and I'm sure you are right, I'm just curious because I know a lot of people use bondo!
I have heard both negative and positive things, especially with cars.


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Click to expand...

Go to the auto parts and buy some light weight filler in a can with hardener Oreilys has MasterPro i think bondo is fine for big fills but sucks to get nice enough to paint on a tank. its reall y a must to prime first and when down to metal you need self etching primer
 
So I started removing all the valuables from the race bike as I realized I'll make more money parting out and it's easier since I don't have access to the bike to show it to people. I popped the head just out of curiousity to see the intervals and first thing I see is this
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I continue to dig...
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Needless to say the motor may be fried.


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It is impressive indeed..
Luckily this bike has some pretty penny parts on it to make up for that motor.
If anyone wants RD motor parts like covers or something let me know, it'll probably go to the dump within the next couple months otherwise, too much stuff in the shop as it is...

In other news, made some head on the KDX.
Mocked some stuff up, still need to swap the tire from the original front end to the new inverted front end and then I can take measurements and know how much to chop, then the progress will really get moving. Hoping to be done by the middle of May if I can swing it!
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Okay, I am in need of some insight. I managed to be the first person to contact someone on Craigslist (never happens) called the guy 3 minutes after the ad was posted.
It's a 1972 Honda 350.
It has keys and the original title. Not running, last ridden in 1989, but the motor is free.
It will need new tires for sure. The price is 350$ which I think seems like a steal. BUT.
The guy has the original title, and it is signed but NOT dated. And he isn't the original owner, he is the second owner. He never signed it, or went to transfer it.
What do you guys think about that?
I don't wanna buy it and not be able to title it.
I'm not familiar with this area.. Thoughts?


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That's an interesting situation. If it isn't dated and the original owner signed it you should be fine. I bought a bike a couple years ago from a guy who bought it off his friend but never put it in his name, so it was the friend's name on the title. Same situation, signed and not dated. He had it registered on non-op though, so it wasn't an issue to register/title. Just went into the DMV, dated it as the day before, and pretended I bought it from the original owner.
If it's still in the system and has back fees that would cost $$$ but if there aren't back fees or its out of the system then you should be golden.
 
CALfeRacer said:
That's an interesting situation. If it isn't dated and the original owner signed it you should be fine. I bought a bike a couple years ago from a guy who bought it off his friend but never put it in his name, so it was the friend's name on the title. Same situation, signed and not dated. He had it registered on non-op though, so it wasn't an issue to register/title. Just went into the DMV, dated it as the day before, and pretended I bought it from the original owner.
If it's still in the system and has back fees that would cost $$$ but if there aren't back fees or its out of the system then you should be golden.
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Yeah, I doubt it has fees since it's the OG owner that owned it at least 30 years, my thought process is if the title really is a huge deal I can easily part out and make my money back, or throw back on Craigslist.
These bikes are far and few between around here and in this condition. Seems to be fairly clean.
 
KDX 200 Project thing

This happened..
It was one of those split second decisions. It popped up for 250 on Craigslist and I had to snag it. No title unfortunately but it runs great, will clean up super nice, it's on Craigslist and I've been getting offers all day but I sourced a titled frame on eBay for 200 bucks and I'm tempted. It's a really fun bike and comfy to ride, but also butt ugly and the frame requires heavy modifications it seems to ever make it into something cool that I would be into.
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Had it for maybe 15 hours, kind of sad kind of happy.. Lol.

The guy that came and got it to drive home definitely doesn't know how to ride a bike and said he had his license, then proceeded to kill it 3 times in a row and try starting it while it was in gear..


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Never watch em ride away and if no MC license make em push off the property... Get a lien waiver if you can ::)
 
KDX 200 Project thing

What is a good product for filling in torn out foam spots?
I'd rather not buy new foam for this seat.
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Use an electric knife and cut the entire top off, get a chunk of foam and a can of 3M spray glue and recap it or just get new foam cut and shape with a flap wheel in a grinder
 
KDX 200 Project thing

CaferacerMO said:
What is a good product for filling in torn out foam spots?
I'd rather not buy new foam for this seat.
82d3afc99a7aef5c7e24ee3d0e3f28f9.jpg


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Click to expand...

You can try carving it down smooth and then putting some smoothing foam (thinner foam, I use 1/2") to make the imperfections disappear.

As for the bondo discussion earlier, I have used a shit ton of bondo (we have a 64 bug nicknamed the "bondo bucket"), but I primarily use west system epoxy with fairing filler for stuff I care about. Bondo is very porous, making it a tough surface to get smooth for painting, as Tune mentioned. The west system stuff is pretty pricey, but you can get a few different filler compounds and use it as a super high strength adhesive, light weight filler, and a smoothing topcoat. Check out my 360 build somewhere in the middle if you're interested in that route. I used west system, fiberglass and their fillers to fab my seat pan/fenders and fill the knee dents on my tank.

I've gotten good results using bondo with a top coat of an epoxy based primer/filler, but other than that if you're rattle canning your paint it takes a lot of layers of prime/sand/fill to get it smooth.
 
What is the best way to get the lower race off of a triple tree?
I read that you just need to put a screw driver or chisel behind it and knock it off with a hammer, but it just won't seem to budge of the kx250 triple tree, and I am trying to mock it up with the new bearings but can't until I get it off... suggestions?
I really want to get this front end mocked up for measurements so I can make this KDX a roller! I want it done by the end of May so I can put as many miles on it as I can this summer!
 
I use two methods.

1) dremel a nick in the race and use a small tip hard chisel to break it by inserting the chisel in the nick and hit it one time with a real solid blow.

2) if the stem has no rust I use a sharp painters scraper/multi tool: and go around the base tapping it in between the bottom tree and the race one good tap move 180 tap move 90 tap 180 tap until it starts moving up then switch to a round flat tip punch and do the same but tapping up under the race from all angles possible until its off.

Mine has the blade all the way through the handle so you are tapping on the blade not a plastic handle. some PB is always handy

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Also for you dudes that cant get a race out of the steering head...

Measure to the race top or bottom of head stock right to the base or mating surface of the race where it bottoms out... transfer the measurement outside and dimple about 2mm 1/8" above the mark... then drill with a chisel bit the ones with a smaller drill then flat tip all the way to the race. I then have a second bit the same size with the little bit ground off to finish the hole to the race because the race will destroy the good bit if you just keep pushing.

Once you have the hole just take a hard punch that is slightly smaller than the hole (1/4 - 3/8" i use 3/8) insert it and hit it with a solid blow, the race will break and you should able to remove the pieces. You can plug weld the hole or just fill it with JB after the new race is installed.
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Also for you dudes that cant get a race out of the steering head...

Measure to the race top or bottom of head stock right to the base or mating surface of the race where it bottoms out... transfer the measurement outside and dimple about 2mm 1/8" above the mark... then drill with a chisel bit the ones with a smaller drill then flat tip all the way to the race. I then have a second bit the same size with the little bit ground off to finish the hole to the race because the race will destroy the good bit if you just keep pushing.

Once you have the hole just take a hard punch that is slightly smaller than the hole (1/4 - 3/8" i use 3/8) insert it and hit it with a solid blow, the race will break and you should able to remove the pieces. You can plug weld the hole or just fill it with JB after the new race is installed.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the insight tune... I should have the bike actually within where I am living now soon.. I am still garage-less but I have a storage unit now that I will work out of and finish this build. Continuous updates to come soon hopefully!
 
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