New kid with a 1972 cl350- idle problems

F

fatmatt

New Member
Hello all this place is great!
I am new to the site and have a 1972 cl350 that i am working on turnîng into a nice cafe racer. I apologize in advance because this is my first stab at working with engines.
The bike I have fires up quick but won't idle. As soon as I let off the throttle it dies.
Has anyone had a similar problem?
Where do I start to try and find the issue?
Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
 
First (standard) question: do you have a manual for your bike?

Not idling could be as simple as your idle adjustment turned down too low, or it could get more complicated. A manual will give you directions for where to start.
 
Thanks for the response CC
I do have the Clymer manual and just tried adjusting the idle screws:
Tried opening up by a couple of turns first, but still getting the same result, starting up no problem then dying without hand on the throttle.
Then I opened up all the way, fired it up and got it to stay running, idling at 4000 rpm.
From there I tried backing off on the idle screws a quarter turn each side to drop the RPM.
I got it down to 3000 and it would stay running, as soon as I tried backing off the idle screws to get it down below 3000 it would die out.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks for the help.
 
Thanks guys.
The carbs are original, previous owner said he had cleaned them recently.
Air filters are pods.
I can fire it up using the electric starter no problem, would there still be an issue with the battery?

I guess I just need to look at it one thing at a time to try and pinpoint what it is.
 
Re-jetted for the pod filters? Throttle cables proper length and adjusted properly? Have you gone through the full tuneup procedure?
 
knowing the '72 350 well, i would start with the timing chain tensioner. Take up slack by pressing down on the kick start lever, (easier done with no plugs in), once tension is applied, lock in the position. I personally re manufactured the locking mechanism. the Honda one was faulty at best. after the chain is done then you can piss with he rest of the stuff above.
 
You said you adjusted the idle adjustment "screws" there should only be one idle adjustment that controls the carb system, you might be adjusting the air fuel mixture and just running it rich or lean till it dies.
 
kagraves said:
You said you adjusted the idle adjustment "screws" there should only be one idle adjustment that controls the carb system, you might be adjusting the air fuel mixture and just running it rich or lean till it dies.
Click to expand...
On the 350 the two carbs are completely independent, each with their own idle screw.
 
I have tried adjusting the idle mixture screws and the idle adjustment screws on both carbs.Photo attached. Adjusting the idle mixture screw seems to have no effect on the problem. Playing with the idle adjustment screws I can get it to idle but only above 3000 rpm.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
Points are new, timing I think I have it set properly.

Coffee guy - is that the same as the cam chain tensioner?
Going by clymers it looks like the locknut is centrally located on the engine in between the carbs?
I'll check that next, then look at the throttle cable.
 

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you cant just put pressure on the kicker and loosen the tensioner holding bolt
there is a posability that it could work this way but zero way to verify
you need to remove the 3 screw stator cover and the points cover
with a 14mm wrench on the crank bolt gently rock the motor forwards and back just a few degrees
while doing this look at the points cam
what you are looking for is a delay or lag in movement this would indicate a loose cam chain
now to adjust it you put some gently rotating force on the crank(counterclockwise) and watch the cam it will follow
stop rotating and hold while loosening the adjuster holding bolt back at the center of the cylinder
you may hear a snap as it is spring loaded to take up slack
then retighten the holding bolt
after check and verify that gently rocking the crank to and fro creates zero or very close to zero lag in the cam rotation
 
HerrDeacon said:
On the 350 the two carbs are completely independent, each with their own idle screw.
Click to expand...

sorry, thought we were talking about a 360 this whole time... my bad.

whats the voltage at the battery when not running and then while running above 3k? you might not be getting enough juice when the bikes not charging, or that may once again jusy be a cb360 issue
 
xb33 all that is well and good but to simply rule out or in the tension on the cam chain, applying pressure on the kick, loosening off on the screw, wait for the click of the spring to take up any slack on the back side, then re-tightening the set screw before letting off on the kick DOES work. And quickly narrow down the search if id does work.

if you further want to fine tune this, and only a bit, your system will work too. the big weakness in the 350 was always the tensioner and locking screw. For non Concours shows I ran with a modified tensioner, nobody would know the difference. but my modified one would never slip. I always knew when the original slipped when my idle speed took forever to slow down if it ever did, one quick check and adjust and back in trim.

JMO
 
Ok thanks guys I have tried adjusting the cam tensioner both ways. First by putting pressure on the kick and then by removing the alternator cover and rotating the rotor.
I didn't hear or feel anything but I'm thinking it worked.

After adjusting the tensioner it did idle pretty good for a few minutes but then it dies off as the battery apparently drained.
I'm charging the battery and will try again to see if it idles the same and wears down the battery.
I have taken some videos of before and after and will try to post them
 
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