I should back up a few moments in this story so I can get all organic and shit. When I set out, I told myself that I would do several things.
#1. Use only a map (and compass, because I always have one with me) no gps whatsoever.
#2 talk to people I dont know. How else would I really get to see the real America?
#3 eat only at local places. No chains, fast food, etc.
So, back at the coffee shop is where I actually stsrted to make myself talk to locals. In between there and here, my most memorable conversation was with a park employee at bodie that acted put out that I wouldn't buy a ticket to climb a bunch of stairs. This is contrasted by the elderly park employee at Hatteras who was more than happy to suggest all the free things I could do on the grounds and even thanked me for riding all this way just to see the dusty past of this state. So when I arrived on Ocracoke, it was about 6PM. I was low on fuel, low on energy, and had no idea what to do about lodging. Anyone who has been there knows that rooms are typically booked months in advance, and the two campgrounds are usually both full and offer very little. You're lucky to get a tree. So, I did not know the next ferry schedule, did not have the energy for several more hours of riding, etc. I began going form motel to hotel looking for anything down to a utility room to snooze in for a few hours.
I didnt find any. Nowhere. So I pulled into a gas station that had info for the campground out back and asked if there were any spots available. Nope. Wait, well, lemme check. We might have something. While im waiting to find out my fate for the evening, the girl at the counter asks my plight. So I explained my unprepared situation and she seemed to want to come up with something better than me asking for a picnic table to sleep under.
Her name was Mona, and she said she would like to offer her porch to me if only she knew me better. Just then the call came back that a spot could be given to me at a lower rate than normal at the campground. She told me that I may want to wait a little while and see if anything else popped up, otherwise call her and see what can be worked out. So I go to Jason's restaurant and have the amazing sandwich, and got a motel directory from the waitress and went down the list. Nothing. Then I noticed the ferry schedule posted had rhe last one of the day leaving right at that moment. Shit. Oh well. Camping it is I guess. Coffee girl's suggestion of dune sleeping cam back to mind. So I called Mona back and told her id take the campground spot. But she said she was waiting to hear back from her landlord about letting me stay there instead. long and short of it, he said she could let me stay, and I spent the next 2 hours in a bar listening to a funny hybrid of Matt Murphy and Carlos Santana (who was kinda good actually, and talking to a Hispanic guy I could not understand at all but he kept smiling and saying something about motorcycles.
Creepy.
So im doing my part to drink them out of People's Porter until Mona got off work, and eventually went outside. Turns out I parked next to a van with lots of um, herbs and spices. So I talked to the man with the van and sampled some herbs and spices. Then Mona got off work and we walked to her place (very close) wouldn't ya know it, she had lots of herbs and spices too!
In all, I was just very grateful that I was able to come to this place with no plan whatsoever, and a pretty, kindhearted girl offered to take me in for the night and I even got a pillow on the couch! Score. we talked for a little bit and then she went to bed. I layed on the couch and listened to drunks outside and a car alarm, cats, and a rooster. It was heaven. It reminded me of my reckless youth in Key West, but a lot more friendly this time around.
The next morning i had to make the 7:30 ferry for Cedar Island. So I got up early and dragged myself to the port. Vending machine and the office coffee pot was to be my breakfast today unfortunately. So goodbye pretty girl from Ocracoke, thanks for the kindness. Next stop, Harker's Island.