Yamaha R5C - TR3 Race Rep

farmer92 said:
Those are definitely silencers on the end and not stingers. Can they be repacked?

The end caps look removable, but I haven't checked to see how easy they might be to get off.
 
Sonreir said:
The end caps look removable, but I haven't checked to see how easy they might be to get off.

Hopefully not to hard, it’s usually important to make sure the packing doesn’t get too choked up with 2t oil in the exhaust.
 
I had a set of forks like that on my DS7. They were off of a ZZR600 which was the less sporty version of the ZX600. I believe that Kelly still has them, maybe reach out to him to verify the numbers on the lower. I found that the offset on those forks were a bit too much for the little bike and after a few months I bought an EX250 front end setup for it. If I remember correctly, I had a around 5" of trail with that setup. I'll have to find one of my old spreadsheets to verify.

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What is the "stinger' is it a perforated tube that you measured the OD or something else. I would expect that to be inside a 2" or so outer sleeve.

How did you determine convergent cone length to the stinger - math, guess work or ?

Dimensions are similar to a common DG pipe but larger diameter and slightly different lengths. Header is the same, diameter is 94mm versus the 100mm ID on yours.

Interesting
 
I measured the convergent cones along one side, under the assumption that the sides are more or less equal. Not the most precise job, I know.

For the "stinger" section, I measured around the outside of the entire pipe. The inside does have a much smaller diameter perforated section.
 
The stock R5 stem will press in to the ZZR lower. I may still have the setup that I took off of my bike. If I do, you can have it for shipping.

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Hi Matt,
Great project you've got going on.
Regarding the chambers, I can't see from the photos too well, but it looks like the exhaust end caps are riveted on, so just drill them out, remove the caps and pull out the baffle material, which is probably totally plugged with oil. Honestly, I'd repack them and run them, see if you like the power band, cornering clearance, the noise level, stuff like that. Of course the final design / shape depends on what other engine mods you do, but they'll get you back on the road a little sooner and give you a baseline to start from. If you have to cut and add or remove bits to get the power band where you like it, better on a set of used pipes than a set of new, big buck chambers...
Teazer has some excellent comments regarding your project and IMHO, right on the mark re: WM2 (1.85 inch) front and WM3 (2.15 inch) rear rim widths. You're using the long tank, so your weight is pretty far back and you may not get enough weight on the front end to heat up a wider front tire - so something that fits on a WM2 front is a pretty good choice. One of the fastest vintage Yam 350's I've ever seen runs a WM2 front - maybe not quite the same use as your bike is going to see, but gets around the track pretty smartly with the "skinny" rim. Good replica shouldered rims are around and I think the Mike's XS WM3 rear rim should lace up to your drum rear brake, but you might have to look around for a WM2 for a drum front.
Good idea getting bigger forks, just remember to brace the frame (I think Teazer mentioned this already) as the extra loads into the frame may start to do funny things to the handling.
Don't know if the "remove the oil pump and run premix" conversation has come up, but for a street bike, I'd say "don't". I have a bike in storage with 2,800 original miles on it, owner forgot the premix (no, not my gaff), have to totally rebuild the motor. Still better than my Bridgestone, which had 300 miles on it before the DPO pulled the same stunt.
DS7's, R5's and RD350's all make neat race bike replicas; I've attached a couple of photos of customer Jason's RD350 race conversion with one of my TR3 fairings and front and rear fenders on it (he'd already bought the seat from another vendor). Yep, that is an alloy tank and yep, $$$$.
Keep us updated with your project.
Pat
 

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clem said:
The stock R5 stem will press in to the ZZR lower. I may still have the setup that I took off of my bike. If I do, you can have it for shipping.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using DO THE TON mobile app

Yes, please!

pacomotorstuff said:
Hi Matt,
Great project you've got going on.
Regarding the chambers, I can't see from the photos too well, but it looks like the exhaust end caps are riveted on, so just drill them out, remove the caps and pull out the baffle material, which is probably totally plugged with oil. Honestly, I'd repack them and run them, see if you like the power band, cornering clearance, the noise level, stuff like that. Of course the final design / shape depends on what other engine mods you do, but they'll get you back on the road a little sooner and give you a baseline to start from. If you have to cut and add or remove bits to get the power band where you like it, better on a set of used pipes than a set of new, big buck chambers...
Teazer has some excellent comments regarding your project and IMHO, right on the mark re: WM2 (1.85 inch) front and WM3 (2.15 inch) rear rim widths. You're using the long tank, so your weight is pretty far back and you may not get enough weight on the front end to heat up a wider front tire - so something that fits on a WM2 front is a pretty good choice. One of the fastest vintage Yam 350's I've ever seen runs a WM2 front - maybe not quite the same use as your bike is going to see, but gets around the track pretty smartly with the "skinny" rim. Good replica shouldered rims are around and I think the Mike's XS WM3 rear rim should lace up to your drum rear brake, but you might have to look around for a WM2 for a drum front.
Good idea getting bigger forks, just remember to brace the frame (I think Teazer mentioned this already) as the extra loads into the frame may start to do funny things to the handling.
Don't know if the "remove the oil pump and run premix" conversation has come up, but for a street bike, I'd say "don't". I have a bike in storage with 2,800 original miles on it, owner forgot the premix (no, not my gaff), have to totally rebuild the motor. Still better than my Bridgestone, which had 300 miles on it before the DPO pulled the same stunt.
DS7's, R5's and RD350's all make neat race bike replicas; I've attached a couple of photos of customer Jason's RD350 race conversion with one of my TR3 fairings and front and rear fenders on it (he'd already bought the seat from another vendor). Yep, that is an alloy tank and yep, $$$$.
Keep us updated with your project.
Pat

Thanks for the info, sir. I'll definitely need to see about bracing the frame as that's not an area where I have a great deal of expertise.
 
On a TZ or TD frame, they need to be braced to delay the inevitable cracking if the rear cross tubes. Leave off the top mount if you rubber mount the motor.

An RD frame is thicker and less prone to cracking than a thin wall TD or TZ frame. I don't think I have ever seen one of those braced on a race bike. The RD frame is small and remarkably stiff. What used to twist all over the place on my street RDs was the swingarm. They are about as stiff as a rice noodle. Good stiff swingarm with new bushes or needle rollers and decent shocks make a huge difference.
 
teazer said:
On a TZ or TD frame, they need to be braced to delay the inevitable cracking if the rear cross tubes. Leave off the top mount if you rubber mount the motor.

An RD frame is thicker and less prone to cracking than a thin wall TD or TZ frame. I don't think I have ever seen one of those braced on a race bike. The RD frame is small and remarkably stiff. What used to twist all over the place on my street RDs was the swingarm. They are about as stiff as a rice noodle. Good stiff swingarm with new bushes or needle rollers and decent shocks make a huge difference.

So don't worry about bracing on the R5 frame?

Do you know of any swingers from other models that will swap in without too much fuss?
 
Sonreir said:
So don't worry about bracing on the R5 frame?

Do you know of any swingers from other models that will swap in without too much fuss?

What about triangulating the existing one?
Inexpensive and easy enough to do.
 
Yup, differing opinions as to what mods to make, you get to sift the wheat from the chaff LOL and decide what is best for you.
Mini thread stealing: ah yes, TZ frame cracks. The rear mount on my B frame looked to have been welded a couple of times before I got it. By coincidence, was looking at a TZ250E monoshock frame and swinger today. A friend has just acquired it and the first thing I told him to do was strip the paint at all of the welds and get them magnafluxed - don't care what the DPO told him about it being "okay".
Back to the thread: The poor man's rear swingarm modification was to use a first generation DT1 swingarm (the box one), but I sold the last of mine a couple of years ago. Same swingarm pivot bolt diameter and the end shims and some of the bushings were the same. The R5 swing arm is pretty short and the DT1 swing arm is a couple of inches longer as well as stiffer. Aftermarket swingarms are going to be expensive if you can find one. "Maybes": an RZ350 swinger, with shock mounts welded on or a RD400 swing arm - a little longer, but the axle slots are a different size I believe. I'll ask around.
Neat project.
Pat
 
Accumulating a few more parts.

New model-specific rear sets have arrived from Slipstream Cycle Works

I've got an email into them to see if I can swap out the fixed peg on the shifter side for a foldable one like there is on the brake side.
 

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When I had a shed full of RD projects and we aslo had an RG250 , the RD felt like a wet soggy noodle, but I believe that most of that was from worn shocks and a flexible swingarm coupled to a somewhat flexy front end. The frame itself is fairly stiff and small. You could look at triangulating it but I'm not sure what you would add or where to make much of a difference.

A decent swingarm is a great idea. The Motolanna arm which comes from Thailand and is sold by a number of sellers is really nice and reasonably priced. I picked up a GS500 swingarm recently. It's a bit too long but could be shortened quite easily. I haven't had a chance to measure it across the front end to see if it could be persuaded to fit in a stock RD frame, but that's one possibility.

For a twin shock set up you could easily add new lower shock mounts where you want them - way back and angled or way forward for upright shocks. Assuming it will fit of course. Maybe an RZ swingarm or a YZ250 or IT or something from just after the RD area might work too.
 
This guy?

http://www.motolanna.com/ourshop/prod_2637748-Swingarm-Aluminum-Alloy-SuperLite.html

Looks like it's for the SR500. Any details on what would be required to adapt it?
 
That question is being asked by others as we speak. .....

http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=33792.0

http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=33787.0

There are others out there. I fitted a Vesco swingarm to a TD3 replica a few years ago and I'm sure that someone could weld a box section steel swingarm up for a more traditional look. There used to be a DG alloy swingarm and someone is making replicas - I just don't know who.

https://tracdynamics.com/products/yamaha-rd-350-400-swingarms

http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=28122.0

http://www.klpracing.com/id6.html

http://www.oilypipes.com/yamaha-products.html

But the price is going up the further I search......
 
Sonreir said:
This guy?

http://www.motolanna.com/ourshop/prod_2637748-Swingarm-Aluminum-Alloy-SuperLite.html

Looks like it's for the SR500. Any details on what would be required to adapt it?

I don't know how easily this fits the 350 but I bought their other swing arm for the SR500 to put on my SR500 and it is a beautiful piece of kit, very well made. If it fits the 350, I may get the light one for mine. I can measure mine sometime next week.
 
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