Hi From Australia CB350

wow, this is so ambitious compared to my wiring... i just put the stock wires in that snap on casing and then added the led stuff for the turn signals/tail lights and put different connectors on the brake circuit to work with my new master. and those guages are gorgeous! nice work!

A little more time spent in the garage today during a bitterly cold and windy Sydney day. Now that the electrical system is all connected up I found I could move on to simpler things like nuts and bolts and easy shit like that. I' m slowly getting closer and closer to the first start and I can hardly contain my excitement. I find myself finding just one more thing I need to do to keep putting it off because I'm too nervous that it's not going to work and the whole project will turn into a big fizzer.

Anyway, here's a few more pictures of progress.

I put my headlight on/off switch into the top of my steering head nut. It turned out to be more complicated than I thought because you can't plug the wires into the switch and then screw the nut down because as you screw the nut down, the wires become twisted inside the stem. So i had to put a separate plug into the loom where the switch wires join it. I think it was worth all the extra hassle



Having moved the starter button to the top of the headlight bucket I had no need for the button incorporated into the right hand switch block. So I cut it off leaving just the kill switch


Cool air filters. Can't wait to try and tune the carbs...


Very large empty space allowing the rear tyre to direct rain gravel and dog shit into the carburettors


Solved by my home made rear hugger


After being expertly coated with this superior quality polymer coating product


Front brakes installed but I've just now realised I don't have any banjo bolts to connect up the brake lines
Brake fluid reservoir


Master cylinder


Calipers


Decided to get creative and used some oxygen tubing for float bowl overflow



I've run into another little problem involving clearance of the speedo and tacho cables running behind the headlight bucket. Because I have shortened the headlight ears and brought the headlight bucket back towards the steering head there is very little to no room to run the cables which will run into the bucket about an inch below the cable attachment point


I can either raise the instruments and/or alter the angle they are mounted or drill holes in the bucket and run the cables through it.

Still to go:
Mount the chain
Polish, clear coat and mount the hugger
Do something clever with (or just mount) the sprocket cover/clutch pushrod mechanism
Do something about a front mudguard
Check that there is a spark
Check static timing
Run a wire via a relay to the engine start button light.
Get some banjo bolts and bleed the front brakes
Mount the header pipes and work out what I'll do for a muffler
Decide on a colour scheme for the tank/seat and paint

That's all! Nearly done...

looking real nice ducatiboy. You will just have to tap the front brake with your pinky and that thing with come to a halt.

You will just have to tap the front brake with your pinky and that thing with come to a halt.

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Too right Ax. I'm still contemplating using just one disc but given that the master cylinder is the correct size for 2 discs, I'll get everything up and running with two and later maybe take one off and see how it feels with just one. Significant weight saving to remove a disc and caliper!

Making progress with all the bits and pieces that seem to take forever to get done.

Checked for a spark and found that it had gone AWOL. Turns out I hadn't wired in a positive to the coils (doh!) so I fixed that.

Mounted the beautiful new 530 x-ring chain



I couldn't resist not using the standard toolbox so I had it painted along with the rest of the frame and mounted in the stock position


Big earth below the right carb


Rear brake linkage



Kick starter but whoops...it hits the rear set at the end of it's travel! I'll have to figure out some way to solve that



Header pipes mounted (not yet wrapped)



Still to do:

Banjo bolts for the front brake lines on order from Italy (848 brakes).
Have to sort out a front fender. The 848 guard I have won't fit because I have an 18 inch wheel instead of the 17 inch the guard is made for
Paint tank/seat
Fit speedo/tacho cables
Find some sort of mufflers
Start the damn thing!!

I should prob get a toolbox mounted up on mine I have 2 layin around. God knows i need it with the old cb.

cb360 kicker has the same spline and sticks out much further. I got one for mine and it easily clears my peg. should be available cheap on eBay or the local wrecker...

cb360 kicker has the same spline and sticks out much further. I got one for mine and it easily clears my peg. should be available cheap on eBay or the local wrecker...

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Really?? That's cool. I'll have to look into it! Not sure I feel like dropping the motor and splitting the cases again at the moment but could be something for the future. At least I know the starter motor works so no real need for the kicker just yet.

ducatiboy said:

Really?? That's cool. I'll have to look into it! Not sure I feel like dropping the motor and splitting the cases again at the moment but could be something for the future. At least I know the starter motor works so no real need for the kicker just yet.

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I think he means the kick lever, not the shaft. Should just be a bolt-on affair and no need to split cases.


Then again - good luck trying to find a CB360 kick lever at the wreckers ....lol...

yup, 2 minute job! just bolt on the 360 kick arm... there are lots on eBay

Wow, just found this thread and you do some nice work! Great you are located near Deus too.. I would love to take a look over there

You've asked about the oil filter on one of the engine-reasemble-pages. Your question about the oil filter touching the round thingy in the cover at crank rpm. Yes it does, and it needs to be very snug to be able to get the oil to the top end. If it leaks there less pressure will be generated by the pump.

I hope the following is clear as i'm not that great with technical talk in a foreign language

I'm not to keen on your solution with the rear brake. The part of tubing you fabbed up to bridge the gap between the primary and secondary arm looks weak to me? Also, the energy you put on it while braking will be transferred in a motion not ideal for your solution. I think you could get in trouble there as the tubing is not sufficiently braced. I think it will be pushed forward (it'll turn offcourse) while braking causing a jam at the point it turns in the frame instead of a nice turning motion. I strongly recommend an other solution, like for instance cable operation (make a little cable stopper on the rear brake) or a better linkage system with less space between the primary and secondary push rod.

I'm not a rocket scientist but i've done a lot of fabbing and i would not ride the bike with that rear brake as it might jam and lock the rear wheel.
But then again, you've got enough stopping poooowweeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrr!!!

I think he means the kick lever, not the shaft. Should just be a bolt-on affair and no need to split cases.

Click to expand...

Ahhh yes....that makes more sense. For some reason I read it as needing a new (and longer) shaft not not lever. I'll have to check out the 'bay and see if I can pick one up

Thanks for your comments Bert. I am not at all averse to criticism and appreciate all comments especially when it is obvious that some thought has gone into being constructive! So it's all cool here! 8) 8)

With regard to the rear brake I agree that the tube that I have welded on may not be strong enough if the brake is used heavily. My main concern was that the welded on lever (i.e. the one most visible and furthest away from the frame) would deform or bend the tube when braking heavily because the tube is quite thin and unreinforced. If this were to happen however, I can't really see that the brake would lock on. I think the thing that will make this set-up usable is that with the dual discs up front the rear brake is generally not going to be required for full on hard braking. It will be only really be needed for hill starts, sitting at traffic lights etc

And thanks for the answer to the oil filter/pump spinning thing! It certainly seems to be an odd arrangement and is not particularly elegant as an engineering solution. Especially when considering that the oil feed to the head on this model is marginal at best as mentioned numerous times in this forum!!

Further progress has been made on this seemingly never-ending project.

We really wanted to try and start this ridiculous bike because it has been sitting in the garage too long and it's about time it started burning some fuel and making some noise. I put the spark plugs in and then discovered that I don't have a 21mm plug spanner. Never mind, doesn't matter. Finger tight will do for now. Also I have not painted the tank yet and I didn't really want to intstall the fuel cocks and put petrol in the tank until it had been painted. So I jury rigged up a fuel hose and a funnel to the right carb, thinking for some reason that if one carb was connected then somehow both would fill. Then attempted a start for the first time!! Gave it full choke and hit the starter button. Very very exciting and what's more it actually started! My son made a video of this historic inaugural engine start. Here it is:

http://youtu.be/pufYRb7wd1o

As you can see the bike started after a few turns but ran on one cylinder only, not surprisingly the right cylinder which had the fuel hose attached! So we re-filled the right side then moved the hose over to the left and filled that one and hit the starter again. Boom! Fired right up and running on two!! SO EXCITED!! Here's the second start:

http://youtu.be/xXuIWnyPZ-w

Although unfortunately it looks like there may be a fairly major leak of oil coming from inside the ignition timing cover on the left side of the head. The engine went together so long ago that I have sort of forgotten what it looks like under that cover but it is not supposed to be an oil filled space. Maybe I have left the oil seal (number 19) out!! That's the next job


Definitely need some mufflers too. It's way loud as is...

awesome to get it going so easily. I got a full gasket kit from dcc for like $45. Includes alot of seals as well. Well worth it. Good little work partner you have got there.

nice, bikes looking sweet, definitely like all the smiles in the workshop

Your 50!!!!!!!!

Buuuuuuuullllllllll-shiiiiiiiiiiiit! Kid knows his stuff by the sounds of it, he's more than welcome round my way

Are you running the stock ducati front fender? Any more info as I wondering whether I put a GSXR one on mine or custom make something around the cut down stocker I've got.

Thanks guys, it was a great relief that it all started up first try. I'm still on a bit of a high about it to be honest!! Now I just want to get the bloody thing on the road.

Neevo, not running stock 848 front fender. I pulled the fender off my race bike and tried to get it to fit the CB but then realised it won't fit because it has an 18inch wheel rather than 17. It also looks much bulkier than what I want. Decided instead to make one. See below...

So next update with a few more photos of bits and pieces. First of all I took the side cover off the ignition timing on the right side of the head to try and trace the oil leak. This is what I found...


The arrows show where the oil seal should be!! Yep...left it out :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ Whoops!! Doesn't fill me with confidence for the rest of the engine's rebuild : Got a new 22x35x5mm from CBC Silverwater for $5. So everyone just move along now...nothing to see here...

Now that the oil leak mystery is solved I installed the clutch cable. But it is a mile too long...


Can anyone point me to instructions on shortening clutch cables? There's no way I can hide this one under the tank!

Right side handle bar has been given some love. Pro-grips, bar end mirror and a shorty adjustable brake lever I had lying around


On to the problem of the front mudguard. I decided to make one out of fibreglass. First lined the inside of the original mudguard with alfoil


Filled it up with resin and 2 layers of chopped strand


Popped it out 2 hours later


Peeled off the alfoil...one of these days I'm going to work out how to line the plug with something so the fibreglass part will pop out easily without aluminium foil stuck all over it


Trimmed it down to the rough shape


What it will look like on the bike


Smothered in body filler...I added a bit too much catalyst so it set before I had a chance to smooth it out. Nothing a big bastard file won't fix!! Filing and sanding to smooth it all out will be next



So that's all for now. Progressing at a snail's pace...

I love this build. Great quality photo's, awesome attention to detail

*high five*

ducatiboy said:

Neevo, not running stock 848 front fender. I pulled the fender off my race bike and tried to get it to fit the CB but then realised it won't fit because it has an 18inch wheel rather than 17. It also looks much bulkier than what I want. Decided instead to make one. See below...

Click to expand...

Ah got it. I assume the black one on the bike in the videos is the one for the 17" wheel. Didn't think about that, that means my option of using a GSXR one is out too. Thanks for the info.

Yep right Neevo. The one in the video was just resting there after I'd been trying it for size before realising it wasn't going to bolt straight on. If I were you I wouldn't completely dismiss the possibility of using the GSXR guard on your build. It WOULD be possible to fit it using some sort of modifying bracket to raise the mudguard only by about 10mm or so to clear the tyre. I just took the view that if I was going to have to frig around getting my 848 guard to fit, I may as well frig around making one that will end up looking the way I want it to.

One of the problems with going with my manufactured front guard is that it offers no protection to the fork stanchions leaving them exposed to stone chips etc