Suzuki FA50 Moped - "The Bumblebee," or, my first two stroke

Looks like you can make your own clutch holding tool with some welding vise grips, heat, and a hammer
 
Re: Suzuki FA50 Moped - "The Bumblebee," or, my first two stroke

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Minimal damage, nut is loose. Let's carry on.


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adventurco said:
I actually have read through there. The formatting on that forum makes it a pain in the ass to read though. I guess a popular mod on the FA50 is to shave the mating surface of the head, I think you can take about 1mm off to make the fins sit even with the cylinder. I'm not set up for it, all I have is a belt sander


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You have To click "flat view " i believe or yea nothing makes any sense and it just seems like a jumble....and hot damn i wonder if thats a peugeot or motobecane.......anyways it seems the FA50 has very little compared to some other mopeds along the lines of people going crazy with porting and cylinder boost ports etc.....but you could change that !
 
Re: Suzuki FA50 Moped - "The Bumblebee," or, my first two stroke

I'm a dummy. The crank seal on this side is behind the bearing, which requires removing frank the crank to access, which I am not getting involved in. The crank seal I bought is for the OTHER side, which is outside of the bearing behind the flywheel and advance mechanism.

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I am assuming since the flywheel side seal is dry on the outside and there was a buncha dirt and crap in there that it's the suspect. So once the flywheel puller comes in I'll get that done up and get this silly thing back together.


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Re: Suzuki FA50 Moped - "The Bumblebee," or, my first two stroke

Finally tracked down the electrical issue to a faulty stator. The primary winding had a break in it somewhere. Since used stators are pretty expensive and who knows if they're any good, I bought some magnet wire and I'll be rewinding that later this week.

While I have the flywheel and stator off, I got to the crank seal under there and replaced it. The rubber grommet that seals off that side of the case had popped right out and it was all full of dirt in there. I put it back in with some hondabond make sure everything stays out.

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Cleaned up the oil tank, installed new throttle cable and wrapped up and reinstalled the harness.


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Re: Suzuki FA50 Moped - "The Bumblebee," or, my first two stroke

I worked through the electrical to figure out the spark issue, tested all the elements on a running FA50. PEI unit is good, coil works, i swapped/tested everything else but none of the other stuff effects the ignition circuit. Narrowed it down to a faulty primary winding on the stator - had open circuits between the two main leads. So rather than paying $50 for a used stator I decided to DIY it and bought a roll of 34 AWG magnet wire from eBay and went to town.

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Forgot to take any pics of the winding base after i cleaned it up. But I chiseled off the epoxy and existing wire all the way down to the plastic post. The most important thing is that the metal mount is isolated from the winding. This one had a plastic insulator but I have read that teflon or thin cardboard works well to cover the post. Filed the posts down and desoldered the wires.

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3 hours later...

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The resistance value in the manual is 90-110, so I'm quite a bit higher. I'm going to test it out and see how the spark looks. I can always unwind and get it back within range if it doesn't work.

An important bit is to scrape off the insulation before wrapping it on the post. I took about 2" and scraped the insulation with an exacto, wrapped it and put a dab of solder to hold it in place. Then resoldered the wires.

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Unwound until I hit spec. Once I soldered the end back on I was just under 110 ohms, right within spec.

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A coat of quick set epoxy and she should be insulated and ready to pop back in tomorrow.

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Re: Suzuki FA50 Moped - "The Bumblebee," or, my first two stroke

Here's a better pic of the winding. Popped it in today and it definitely works, nice blue sparks.

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But, somehow the compression is now lower than when I started, now looking at 60 psi, which is no good at all. Looks like a set of rings is in the future. Looks like this old no-ped won't be coming along to Alabama this year.


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nice work on that rewind. Must be satisfying to see blue sparks after all that effort. Timing is probably in the 20-24 degree BTDC range. If it has points ( I can't remember) it's a PIA to time because you have to remove the flywheel to set/adjust them or to move the backing plate and then bolt it back on to test and repeat until you get it close enough.
 
teazer said:
nice work on that rewind. Must be satisfying to see blue sparks after all that effort. Timing is probably in the 20-24 degree BTDC range. If it has points ( I can't remember) it's a PIA to time because you have to remove the flywheel to set/adjust them or to move the backing plate and then bolt it back on to test and repeat until you get it close enough.

Thanks. This particular model has a CDI box, but the stator plate is behind the flywheel so it has to come off to change it. I set it right on the mark according to the manual, but I need to spin the crank with a drill and put a timing light on it to get it exact.

The manual states ignition timing should be 25 degrees +/- 2 degrees BTDC @ 4k RPM.
 
Trying to brainstorm why this thing won't fire. Even with a blast of WD or carb cleaner in the head, with the low compression it should still at least pop or give me something.

I can only come up with 2 possible reasons, one is that the crankcase is leaking air somewhere, not creating the proper vacuum to draw mix into the cases. If this were the "case," it should still give me a little something with added fuel.

It seems unlikely, but is it possible that the spark plug would spark while resting on the outside of the head, but for some reason not spark when installed? I'll swap out the coil tomorrow but I know the one I've been using works. I'm baffled.

:eek:
 
If you still have the carb uncovered put your hand over the end while you kick it over to help suck in some gas.
 
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