Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Yes, the new chain is going to be very tight as well, so make sure timing is lined up before riveting, its tricky to do it afterwards. My chain couldnt jump a tooth even without the tensioner installed so i would have needed to mess around with unbolting the camwheels if it wasnt right first time.
 
thanks guys for your input!

Wanted to start with the camchain this weekend...Unfortunately someone bent my forks while the bike was parked and I had to readjust them this weekend...what a pain in the ass!!

So I´m preparing to do the camchain next weekend and I need to write a step by step list and I need your help guys with this:
I´ve been working on the ignition side a few times already but its been a long time:)

-Remove the top lid (exposing the cam chains)
-Remove the spark plugs (makes it easier to turn the engine over)
-Remove ignition assembly on the left side
-Remove the camchain tensioner assembly
-Check the condition of the tensioner blades:is this possible when the tensioner is removed? Would be shitty if the blades are worn and the chain is ok...
-Un rivet the existing chain and hook up the new chain to the old one-->How should I go about this?Do I understand correctly that you use the new rivet link to hook it to the old chain then turn the engine over (should I use the ignition screw on the left to turn the engine over?)?
-When the new chain is in place I hook the new chain into place with the new link then check the engine timing.Where do I find the TDC mark?is it where I use the flash pistol for the ingnition setting?
-How do I make sure that the 2 cams are ligned up properly with the TDC?

Sorry for the questions :)!


EDIT: I found these pics!

--->On which side would you guys put the new side plate with the riveted parts?does it make a difference?
 

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I think its easier to just link up the chains and pull them through with the engine not moving, less risk of any jumps in timing. Then be extremely careful when aligning the timing marks before riveting.
TDC mark is found on the ignition plate inside left hand cover.
Guides can be checked with the tensioner off, i think you will need to remove the inner lhs cover as well to access those screws if they are worn. A bit bigger of a job as the ignition parts will have to come off, just note how the bits sat together before disassembly if thats the case.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Alright guys... I will be borrowing the riveting tool this weekend so slowly I will be planning and organising.
So just checked my new cam chain out.
So the chain is already riveted together so I guess I need to unrivet the new chain before I tie it together with the old one?
There is a chain piece added which I guess will be used to re-rivet the chain back together.
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Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

datadavid said:
I think its easier to just link up the chains and pull them through with the engine not moving, less risk of any jumps in timing. Then be extremely careful when aligning the timing marks before riveting.
TDC mark is found on the ignition plate inside left hand cover.
Guides can be checked with the tensioner off, i think you will need to remove the inner lhs cover as well to access those screws if they are worn. A bit bigger of a job as the ignition parts will have to come off, just note how the bits sat together before disassembly if thats the case.
How I pull the chain trough without turning the engine ?
Do you mean lifting the old chain up so that it doesn't 'hook' into the cam cog wheels and then pulling it trough?

Thanks.

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Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

TranceMachineVienna said:
How I pull the chain trough without turning the engine ?
Do you mean lifting the old chain up so that it doesn't 'hook' into the cam cog wheels and then pulling it trough?

Thanks.

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No, you sink it down off the crankshaft cogs, it should already be off the cam wheels at this stage.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

OK that sounds good!
So I guess I need to unrivet the new chain first?
Is there a certain place where the riveting of the new chain is easiest?I guess that a good stable point would be of advantage.

Thanks

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Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

I just riveted mine between the cam wheels, using a regular old hammer as counterpunch someone probably has a better method, i just make sure not to pinch the links.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

datadavid said:
I just riveted mine between the cam wheels, using a regular old hammer as counterpunch someone probably has a better method, i just make sure not to pinch the links.
Savage
I have a Finnish friend who told me that he does the same on his Harleys.
I decided to check on the valve clearances too since the top lid needs to come off anyways.


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Couple of thoughts. If I have to use a soft link, I use a large hammer on the other side as an anvil.

Most bikes of the era use a 219 chain but that size comes in a number of different "strengths". Some use thicker side plates and so have longer pins. Some use thicker pins, so if you buy a link, make sure it is the right size. And if you can find one with a clip and not rivet, it's OK to use it.
 
teazer said:
Couple of thoughts. If I have to use a soft link, I use a large hammer on the other side as an anvil.

Most bikes of the era use a 219 chain but that size comes in a number of different "strengths". Some use thicker side plates and so have longer pins. Some use thicker pins, so if you buy a link, make sure it is the right size. And if you can find one with a clip and not rivet, it's OK to use it.

Hey teazer!

Thanks for chiming in!The chain came already rivete and with a link with a plate and not a clip...I will try to roll with what I have even though youre right...the clip would be way easier!
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

TranceMachineVienna said:

I used to do it like that as well in the past, before I had a professional rivetter. Once you've done it a few times you know how hard to peen it over.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Had a long wrench session yesterday but wasn't able to finish the job.
I removed all pieces and checked the timing.
The camguides are worn so I need to order them as well hope they come during the next week.
The cam timing is slightly off already.
I will also buy as teazer said a camchain lock since the Kellermann tool doesn't have a fitting that fits my camchain.

As for now I will continue to:
-leave the old chain on
-remove the cam nut and the big cog wheel on the cam chain
-remove the metal air hose
-remove and replace the camguides
-put the cog wheel and nut back on
-Re check the cam timing
-cut the old chain and pull the new one trough
-lock the new chain
-check cam timing
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P*n*s at 12 o'clock. ;D

The Kellermann tool should work fine, even though it is not a perfect fit. (I used the same on mine...)
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

der_nanno said:
P*n*s at 12 o'clock. ;D

The Kellermann tool should work fine, even though it is not a perfect fit. (I used the same on mine...)
Yes the triple is hefty

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So guys I´m basically waiting for the parts to arrive.I will replace all the sliding parts of the cam chain assembly and thats whats stopping me at the moment.

I decided to use a hammer and the help of a good friend to "rivet" the new chain,its not the first time he has done it this way and if this fails I will get a chainlink like Teazer said.
The expensive Kellermann tool was not suitable it needs a thinner dye to rivet and unrivet the chain.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Parts have finally arrived now I can do the repair as its supposed to be done!!!
A little confused here:does the camshaft tensioner adjustment screws go in or out of the motor?
I think it's not mounted right at the moment...
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There's a shaft/spring/pad in there that springs tight when you loosen that screw you're pointing at. There's an auto CCT that you may want to seek out.

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Had a successful Frist wrench with a biiiiig fail on the end.
Successfully replaced all the cam chain sliders, the old ones were nicely worn so I'm happy that I did this.
Put everything back together. Put the sidecober of the ignition side back on and turned the engine over and boom the crank pin broke of the crank.
It sits now flush with the crank.
Tried to drill it out... No chance.
Seems like the PO used a driver to warp the steel around to fix the pin into the crank.

I will try tomorrow again to solve this not permantly but I think I will whip out the TIG and slowly build up material on the pin and slowly build it back up.
What would you guys try?

This sucks but I'm happy that this didn't happen on the road.
Looks like the pin was already weak.

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