CB360 - Clean and simple

It appears to be on an angled towards the hub, might have an issue clearing the tire, since it should really if anything be angled the opposite way. Had to do something similar on my last bike which is why I know.
 
Also got it sandblasted and the first (rough) coat of paint.

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And the modified bracket again:
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Not super thrilled with the weld still and I will probably fill those holes, but it's good enough for the bottom of the swing arm I guess :-\
 
So how am I going to trigger the brake light now that I cut the mount for the switch off?

Hopefully with one of the extra neat things I have in mind for this build.

I adjusted the bracket I cut off for the brake light switch to fit on the other side of the frame:
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It's new job will be to hold the new proximity sensor for the brake lights:
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The cool thing about this is that there won't be any moving parts or even contact of any kind... notice the clearance:
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Part of the reason why I went this route is to clean up the outside of the frame... it's almost totally hidden from the side.
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I will have to build a controller for this, but I was planning on doing that anyway. It has a pretty tight tolerance, so the brake light will engage relatively quickly once the pedal is pressed. Since this switch is normally closed, and opens when the pedal moves away, my plan is to use a pull-up pin that is activated in the up position - so when the switch is closed, the pin is low/grounded, and the brake lights come on. The benefit to this is that it will have a fail safe in that if the switch fails or the pedal doesn't line up for some reason, it will fail in the brake lights on position. I figure looking like I'm braking is better than actually braking with no brake lights.

Here's a video of the sensor in action - you can see the indicator light on the sensor turn on/off with the pedal movement.

https://youtu.be/7igFdnmPENQ
 
JadusMotorcycleParts said:
Mate that's bloody awesome. Had never thought of that. Reminds me of the prix sensor on my 3D printer :D

Thanks :D

A few of the reviews on this sensor I got said it works great for their 3d printers ha.... not sure how long it will last on the motorcycle but I'm going to make it easy to change and probably coat it in something waterproof.

irk miller said:

This is a hydraulic pressure switch - which doesn't work on a non-hydraulic, mechanical linkage brake system like the original rear drum brake on a CB360. It will work for the front brake though and will be the route I go if the original switch is broken or I can't find a place to put it.
 
tnum said:
This is a hydraulic pressure switch - which doesn't work on a non-hydraulic, mechanical linkage brake system like the original rear drum brake on a CB360. It will work for the front brake though and will be the route I go if the original switch is broken or I can't find a place to put it.
No, it works on your front brake switch. You don't need to a rear break switch when you have a front one. Even the slightest pull powers the light. Requires very little effort, and no welding to install.
 
Unfortunately, the previous owner put a cheap, universal forward foot rest on this bike...
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And it ended up making some dents in the down tube :(
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So I'm just doing some prep before painting the frame to clean up the bits like this... and my grinding marks.
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Still needs more work and I'm debating how much work is worth putting into this frame ???
 
Getting the cases ready for reassembly:

Splash guards are shiny again
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Raser blading the last bits of old gasket material off
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Final washing
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I'm debating about drilling out the oil passages or not... mostly I had trouble finding how big the hole should be either before or after drilling so I'm not sure if it's been drilled already and don't want to make it too big.

While I imagine this would increase flow, it should also decrease pressure? does that little oil pump have enough to continue to reliably get oil to the top end.. or was the hole undersized to begin with?
 
Speaking of the oil pump..

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Turns out the gasket kit I had ordered came with the oil pump gasket as well 8)
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Upgrading to stainless steel cap screws
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Going back together
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Nice
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Side note about the new screws, although they are a little longer, they fit flush to the other side
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Also cleaned up all the case bolts
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I think the oil hole is drilled to 3/32", haven't done one for a long time. It's probably more important to do the oil transfer piece inside clutch cover, that is the main problem with top end oiling. The mains and big end bearings are pretty much always flooded with oil, they need flow not pressure. oil pump actually provides too much pressure at high rpm which forces the transfer piece/oil pressure valve open dumpimping oil back to sump. There is still enough getting through to lube mains, etc but not enough pressure to get to cam bearings. I doubt a 1/8" hole would lower flow to mains enough to cause a problem, gravity will keep enough oil flowing. (BIG ENDS ARE NOT PRESSURE FED)
 
crazypj said:
I think the oil hole is drilled to 3/32", haven't done one for a long time. It's probably more important to do the oil transfer piece inside clutch cover, that is the main problem with top end oiling. The mains and big end bearings are pretty much always flooded with oil, they need flow not pressure. oil pump actually provides too much pressure at high rpm which forces the transfer piece/oil pressure valve open dumpimping oil back to sump. There is still enough getting through to lube mains, etc but not enough pressure to get to cam bearings. I doubt a 1/8" hole would lower flow to mains enough to cause a problem, gravity will keep enough oil flowing. (BIG ENDS ARE NOT PRESSURE FED)

Thanks, I guess it's worth doing then.
 
Cleaned a bunch of stuff today getting the engine ready for reassembly.

Final wash on the lower case:
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Splash guards installed:
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Oil filter:
Before
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After
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Got the head unwrapped and cleaned
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Found this old trumpet cleaner to be the perfect size to make sure the valve guides are clean
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And finally unwrapped the cylinders and washed them
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A little crusty
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Honed clean
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Cleaning all the old gasket material off
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Washed, scraped, honed, and oiled - ready for assembly
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Started putting the head together, but ran into some bad news...

Got all my stuff laid out
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Nice clean parts
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Before lapping
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After lapping
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More lapping
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New seals
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Classic c-clamp valve spring compressor
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Installed
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But then I found this little curiosity on the other exhaust valve... The edge was worn
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Here's a closer look
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Notice how some of the carbon is also still on the mating surface
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Looking straight down, you can see about 30% of the mating surface is still covered in carbon...
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All this means one of two things - either the valve is bent or the guide is bent :-\

So I chucked the valve into my drill and confirmed it's bent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4Z3aR5XTKA

Definitely glad I noticed before trying to start it.... I have a feeling this might be the reason this bike was parked in the first place.
 
Does anyone know a good torque spec resource for the case, head, valve cover bolts?

p.s. Do I post too many pictures? Not sure if it's causing load times that aren't worth the wait for anyone or if it's welcomed ???
 
Performed the oil passage mod as one of the final steps before assembly

Before
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The drill didn't work...
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Had to pick up an extension
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Opened up on each side to 3/32 of an inch.
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Mating the case halves back together finally ;D

First, I went through and chased all the threads with a tap
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Some of them were a little crusty
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But are clean now
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Installing the transmission
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Crank and crank bits
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Prepped all the holes with some anti-seize
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Hondabond!
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Case is back together :)
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