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If you guys recall, a while back a fellow forum member offered to make some brackets I designed for me. I just got around to mounting them, because the DCC little stamped ears I had just weren't cutting it. At all. They were rattling and vibrating all over the place.
When I was in Ohio this past week, I stopped by the big Summit Racing store up there and picked up a bag of cushioned adel clamps. Here's what I came up with. Im super happy with them and they are very snug. The headlight won't bounce around anymore so that's a plus...
What would cause a random spew of gas from one carb? Won't stop on either reserve or on positions. Will stop when the petcock is off. Besides a stuck float? I tapped tapped on the bowl with a screwdriver, nothing.
Also, the area around the air screw head is wet on both carbs.
Yeah. I figured float. Just seems I have this problem a lot and I haven't had it on a trailer or anything bouncing around. Ran fine last time, parked it. Flipped the petcock on and out it came.
I'll take the bowl off with the carb installed on the bike and see if it's stuck up.
I got the new intake setup done and mounted. I like it! And it seems pretty stable but I do like the idea of safety wiring them so they don't bounce around.
I am bogging half to full throttle now. My idle drops back down to a good idle when I come to a stop sign or something and pulls hard from closed to about 1/2 throttle. Anything after that boggs with a sharp jab to the throttle. I can ease it in and it will rev but hard accel kills it.
I am finally happy with this intake setup so I will jet the carbs to these pods.
The only change I have made is moving from open stacks (with prefilter) to this pod setup, which makes me think I'm not getting enough air at full throttle.
I know I wasn't running 100% perfect before with the stacks but the bike responded well at all rev ranges. So let's hypothetically use that as a baseline.
If a/f was good, I added pods reducing airflow, I would want to reduce fuel as well right? So potentially drop the size of the main jet? I am also running my jet needle at the fourth position from the top (stock) so I could also raise that and richen the mixture.
All this could be incorrect if the K&N really is higher flowrate than the UNI I had covering the stacks...in which case my assessment would be reversed...
It's more likely to be rich than lean, mine does the same, can easily stall it if I rip back hard on the throttle revving it. I ordered smaller mains, as I was already told from others that the 135s will likely be way rich.
It's more likely to be rich than lean, mine does the same, can easily stall it if I rip back hard on the throttle revving it. I ordered smaller mains, as I was already told from others that the 135s will likely be way rich.
I'm confused by your post. If you (we) are running lean then we'd need bigger mains not smaller. Yea? I keep referencing that mikuni to keihin chart haha
I'm confused by your post. If you (we) are running lean then we'd need bigger mains not smaller. Yea? I keep referencing that mikuni to keihin chart haha
As my 175 is sitting apart right now, I almost did just that with mine! Then I remembered its a 175 and talked myself out of turning my wallet upside down haha.
Double and triple check the float bowl gaskets. And check the floats to see if they have shiny marks where they are rubbing. We had horrendous leaks from similar carbs one year and it turned out that the "gaskets" were touch too wide and when compressed they squeezed out and rubbed on the float and that stopped them from closing completely.
On one CB160 race bike with open stacks we ended up with basically stock main jets which was a touch surprising. An O2 sensor and gauge would tell you for sure what is going on, but they are not cheap for a one time use. It's probably cheaper to find a friendly dyno operator with gas analysis (sniffer).
Double and triple check the float bowl gaskets. And check the floats to see if they have shiny marks where they are rubbing. We had horrendous leaks from similar carbs one year and it turned out that the "gaskets" were touch too wide and when compressed they squeezed out and rubbed on the float and that stopped them from closing completely.
On one CB160 race bike with open stacks we ended up with basically stock main jets which was a touch surprising. An O2 sensor and gauge would tell you for sure what is going on, but they are not cheap for a one time use. It's probably cheaper to find a friendly dyno operator with gas analysis (sniffer).
Thanks Teazer. As far as floats go, these just came in so I hope it will help. Brand new. Though I should probably dunk them in some water just in case to check.
I know for a fact one of my old one leaks and the other is dented.
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