1978 CB550 Pieces/Parts Hellride

A couple more pics. The top mount still has a couple of half cones that will follow those gaps, but you should be able to get the gist.




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john83 said:
You want to do away with the drum.


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The drum is fine. The trouble and expense of finding a compatible swap isn't worth it. 75/76 CB750f wheels are hell to find and cost upwards of $300 most of the time. DR350SE wheels are usually in the $200 range. I could go 17" and pic one of several DR650/KLR650 etc type swaps, but we're still looking at $150 plus. With the front brakes, there's way more stopping power than this thing will ever need. A bearing swap to accommodate the 17mm axle is all I need here, so I will take the path of least resistance. I don't hate a rear drum anyway, as long as the front end is stout.

This rear wheel will get a GL1000 aluminum rim and fresh spokes and I'll call it good.
 
Shit. As soon as I finished that post, realized I have a 750f roller in my barn. The question is still if it’s worth pulling that wheel off that frame. Hmmm...




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Why not stick an absurd engine into that frame? Like a Vtwin or some such.

Personally I like the drum rear brake. Smoother look I recon.
 
Brodie said:
Why not stick an absurd engine into that frame? Like a Vtwin or some such.

Personally I like the drum rear brake. Smoother look I recon.
I kinda like it too. With some more thoughts, I think it will stay. I plan to build that roller into another 750 when I can source a good lump.
 
Maybe a kz750 rear wheel. 18" has a cush drive and spoked 20mm axle.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-Kawasaki-KZ750-Twin-K293-3-rear-wheel-rim-hub-drum-18in-/352649061226?nav=SEARCH
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-Kawasaki-KZ750-Twin-K293-3-rear-wheel-sprocket-and-carrier-/233207803025?nav=SEARCH
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-76-KAWASAKI-KZ750-KZ-750-CUSH-DRIVE-RUBBERS-/332965246668?nav=SEARCH
 
The other half of this rear wheel equation is the axle dim. GS500 uses a 17mm axle, while most of the bikes we are talking about use 20mm axles. The CB550 uses two different wheel bearings- a 62mm OD bearing on the sprocket side and a 52mm OD bearing on the brake side. I haven't been able to find a 62mm x 17mm bearing in any width, so for now I machined two 17mm ID x 20mm OD sleeves that are pressed in from each side totaling 125mm in length and a flanged sleeve with the same OD/ID dims for the brake hub. Wheels like on a DR350SE, for example, use a 17mm axle, have the cush drive, aluminum rim, 18" OD and they're disc, so it's really the perfect wheel. However, a dirt bike rear brake meant to stop a 280lb dirt bike may not be much better than the drum. Plus, the reality is you can still make a drum skid, so how much better does it really need to be? Anyway, if this bike stays in my stable then the DR wheel will be the most likely choice. However, I intend to bring this bike to Mid-O and other venues with the intent to sell and the drum rear wheel most likely won't make or break a sale.
 
Yep, drum is fine for a rear brake and looks fine too me as well. Don't make a ton of extra work for yourself you really don't need.
 
Jimbonaut said:
I need me a barn like that.
It’s like having a crack dealer living next door.

I got some rubber installed on the front wheel to get a true account of my stance.




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canyoncarver said:
It's got the look. Looks like each Cafe you race to will need to be a gas station too.
What d'you mean? It holds 9 gallons. How much gas do these 550's use up?
 
As usual, I like it.

Man you do good work, and quick at it too..!
 
irk miller said:
What d'you mean? It holds 9 gallons. How much gas do these 550's use up?

Shit the GL1000 only has an 5 gal tank and gets 200 miles out of a tank, the 550 should get more than that between fills with 9!
 
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