wozza said:Hubba Hubba
Haha I hope its owner feels the same!
BMW R90/6 Cafe
- Thread starter ncologerojr
- Start date
Haha I hope its owner feels the same!
Pete12 said:
Thanks, I think the splash of color will really make the aluminum pop.
Sorry for the long delay between posts. I’ve been doing a lot of the dirty work or refinishing parts, and that just isn’t photogenic. But, things are coming along, and I’m liking how it’s all tiring out.
Rear hub and final drive blasted and painted to match the engine. Original 45year Old aluminum rim polished up, and new stainless spokes.
Transmission casing blasted and painted.
Same treatment for the engine block and heads.
Siebenrock 1000cc power kit with lightweight hi-comp pistons.
The engine coming back together.
I’ll be working on the engine today, so some more updates on that soon.
Rear hub and final drive blasted and painted to match the engine. Original 45year Old aluminum rim polished up, and new stainless spokes.
Transmission casing blasted and painted.
Same treatment for the engine block and heads.
Siebenrock 1000cc power kit with lightweight hi-comp pistons.
The engine coming back together.
I’ll be working on the engine today, so some more updates on that soon.
Tim said:
Thanks, that’s awesome to hear. When comparing the two options it was an easy choice.
I’m running Mikuni VM32’s, Boyer microdigital ignition and a Dyna coil.
3DogNate said:
Thanks. Yeah, great product.
ncologerojr said:
I'm also running VM32's and a Boyer ignition, with the Boyer coil with an open stainless exhaust (stock 2 into 2) but wide open 'silencers'.
I'm running rich/fouling plugs at the moment but it does run reliably once warmed up. When you start jetting and tuning it will be interesting to see where you land.
Tim said:
Awesome. I’m also running a better flowing exhaust, but a bit more restricted than yours. I’m running 2-2 stainless head tubes with cone engineering quiet core silencers. I’ve built a bunch of systems with the cone eng silencers and love them, should work well here.
I’ll definitely post up on the tuning. My buddy has a shop near by and has been working on getting his new dyno room set up. I’m hoping timing works out to get this bike in there and get it tuned as best we can.
Frame and parts are back from powder coat, and the last bits of the engine are back together. Time for the fun part.
I always feel that surface finished/textures are just as important as color, and often overlooked. I think the light texture on the frame will perfectly contrast the glass-smooth aluminum bodywork.
I always feel that surface finished/textures are just as important as color, and often overlooked. I think the light texture on the frame will perfectly contrast the glass-smooth aluminum bodywork.
https://youtu.be/EC0m5rl5U3w
Getting some shine going.
I’ll say! Looks fantastic, great job. Would you mind sharing your sanding/polishing process (what grade papers and polishing compounds)? I’ll be working on some aluminium engine covers soon and if I can get them half this good I’ll be chuffed to bits.
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Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Odontologist
Umina Beach, Australia....Where does that part go?
Freakin' awsome. Sculpture !
Question....these airheads don't like to run too long without air cooling (I believe). Does painting heads diminish the capacity for cooling ..... say...at idle?
Question....these airheads don't like to run too long without air cooling (I believe). Does painting heads diminish the capacity for cooling ..... say...at idle?
Jimbonaut said:
Thank you. Polishing is tedious, dirty work. The sanding/buffing compounds required really depends on your buffer, I have a cheap one so I need to put in a little more work. I sand with a pneumatic DA 80, 120, 220, 320 and then hand sand with 400. Then buff on a spiral sewn wheel with green compound and then black. Finish on a flannel wheel with brown.
Odontologist said:
Thanks!
Honestly, I don’t know. If it does, I think it’s negligible. I bead blast everything so the surface gets a light texture for good adhesion and then just a couple light coats.
Fantastic, thanks. I had my engine covers and assorted parts media blasted (glass bead) and I'm wondering what grade paper to start with. I'll try and error it, but hoping I can start with something smooth, around 220 if possible. The surface texture looks very smooth, just textured from the media. No air tools in my shop (sadly, very sadly).
Yours look like mirrors. Hats off - I know how much work is involved in making that happen. Kudos!
Yours look like mirrors. Hats off - I know how much work is involved in making that happen. Kudos!
Jimbonaut said:
I have done way more aluminum polishing that I like to remember, and I would recommend starting at at least 120. There are often scratches that you won’t be able to see until the surface starts to get really smooth. There nothing worse than spending hours sanding to find that you need to go back and start over. Starting with and aggressive grit is always faster and yields better results. My truck is to coat the part in blue machinist dye, and then sand it off. Ensures I don’t miss any spots.
I’ve polished a ton of stuff with and electric random orbital palm sander. If you don’t have one, you can pick one up cheap. Good luck!
