Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

You don't want to have the plastigauge extend over the bearing surface other than that, yes, you tighten all the corresponding bolts to the correct torque and then undo them. That being said, the clearance of the middle rod on the crank was slightly over spec, but well within what from my experience will still work.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

I think you need the green? Its not hard to use really, just make sure nothing rotates while you torque them. For the crankcase i had to put in all the big bolts around the crank to get even plastigage figures.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Thanks data!i will try as soon as I get back to the bike!

Yesterday I sat down and started pulling the cyl head apart...didnt find anything yet that would need renewal *besides the stone hard valve seals* :).
There is no palpable play of the valves in the valves seats.
One thing I had problems with:
I would like to clean the exhaust ports off of the black coal...how would you guys go about?
WD40 and dremel with steel brush?

Thanks

Sent from my SM-A310F using DO THE TON mobile app
 
Do I need a lid to close the bucket
Ryan that's a domestic negotiation between you and your better half ;D My wife hates the smell of diesel, I was using it as a cutting fluid on the mill over the weekend. It will stink, if you don't have a lid, I would tape a big plastic bag over it.
The XS heads are very robust, I would be surprised if you needed to do any more than lap the valves in and replace the guide seals.
 
XS750AU said:
Ryan that's a domestic negotiation between you and your better half ;D My wife hates the smell of diesel, I was using it as a cutting fluid on the mill over the weekend. It will stink, if you don't have a lid, I would tape a big plastic bag over it.
The XS heads are very robust, I would be surprised if you needed to do any more than lap the valves in and replace the guide seals.

Don´t forget I´m freshly married...I still have to learn a lot :D

Just found a bucket and will soak the head in there!
Do you know by any chance the torque of the big 4 journal screws that bolt from the bottom (oil filter and oil pan housing) into the upper case?
Cant find anything in my manual...would be a great help!

Thank you!
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Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

I 'should' know the torque values since i torqued my cases at least ten times before final assembly.. torque figures are in my haynes book.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

http://www.yamaha-triples.org/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=5730&DisplayType=flat&setCookie=1 this is pretty much all you need though!
 
Haynes manual page 54 states that it is a 2 stage process for the crank case bolts.
M8 1st = 1.0 Kgm (7 ft lb), final = 2.0 Kgm (14 ft lb)
M10 1st = 2.0 Kgm (14 ft lb), final = 3.7 Kgm (27 ft lb)

Don´t forget I´m freshly married...I still have to learn a lot :D
Yes understand your point. But it does not hurt to set some precedents. ;) My wife and neighbours are not surprised these days as they know to expect anything! Might have something to do with the wind turbine mounted on my shed with a 2m rotor span! I think the biggest surprise for them was when I fired up a Chinese valveless pulse engine that I made after watching youtube. The noise is unbelievable, 120db plus!!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPevraef4gI.
The video is not my engine, but you get the idea.
The neighbour's wife just looked at her husband and said " what the "F" has he made now?". Luckily I am now totally distracted by the XS896 build. ;D
 
Thanks guys for your input!
That pulse engine is amazing :)!

Here are some pics from the head dissassembly!

Cheers!
 

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So there´s one BIG question: ::) ::) ::)

My aim is to blast the whole engine...
So I would now-->reassemeble the "hollow" engine with no crank and pistons, reseal it

There is a trusty blasting technician in Vienna that does really good work with glass beads, but I don´t think that I can get the engine leak free and I don´t want ANY glass beads going into my engine...
Der Nanno already advised my to remove all the gears and crank parts and then sealing the engine then blasting.

Already thought about soda-blasting the engine or dry ice blasting but as far as I know these methods won´t remove the factory paint from the motor...

How hard is it to remove all the transmission parts from the engine?
I´m afraid that I will never be able to put them back in the right way...
 
Ryan Stecken said:
So there´s one BIG question: ::) ::) ::)

My aim is to blast the whole engine...
So I would now-->reassemeble the "hollow" engine with no crank and pistons, reseal it

There is a trusty blasting technician in Vienna that does really good work with glass beads, but I don´t think that I can get the engine leak free and I don´t want ANY glass beads going into my engine...
Der Nanno already advised my to remove all the gears and crank parts and then sealing the engine then blasting.

Already thought about soda-blasting the engine or dry ice blasting but as far as I know these methods won´t remove the factory paint from the motor...

How hard is it to remove all the transmission parts from the engine?
I´m afraid that I will never be able to put them back in the right way...
I would disassemble the whole engine. If you leave it closed, I am a strong believer that sand will get into your engine somehow (even by a small amount), and I don't like having sand in my engine.

If you take a lot of pictures during disassembly, especially of the details, it normally won't be a problem. It's just scary to do it for the first time.
And download a workshop manual or a haynes manual or something else of that type. Helps alot.
Tip: If you have parts that look identical on first sight, or parts which orientation are not that obvious, mark them somewhere visible with a color that stands out before you take the pictures.
Extra tip: Store your pictures as fast as possible on your computer/ hard drive, before your cellphone falls down in a bucket of fresh warm dirty motor oil. The bucket sends the pictures to the deepest, darkest pit never to be found again. (Ask me how I know :-[ )
 
So I would now-->reassemeble the "hollow" engine with no crank and pistons, reseal it

Most blasters want the engine completely disassembled, so it is easy to clean the parts after they are blasted. Very much doubt that you could possibly seal it well enough to prevent some medium getting in. Plus it is much easier to manipulate small parts rather than the complete engine castings.
I had my 750 engine hydroblasted (high pressure water with very fine medium) and the technician insisted all parts were completely disassembled. He then plugged the oil passages prior to blasting.
Best thing to do is talk to the technician first and find out how they want you to deliver the parts.
 
How hard is it to remove all the transmission parts from the engine?
I´m afraid that I will never be able to put them back in the right way...

Sorry missed that question.
It is not as bad as it looks. The selectors are on 2 shafts, pull the shafts out and then extract the selector dogs. Once out reassemble to the shafts with their dogs and bag the assemblies.There are 2 shafts with all the gears on them, just pull out the shafts complete and do not take the gears off the shafts. Have zip lock bags and put each shaft in its own bag complete with all shims and clips. Take photos to refer to later. If you keep them in major assembly groups then it is not too bad. Basically you can not put the wrong shaft in the wrong position. The worst you can do is miss a shim or clip. That is why you need to include the clips and shims with the assembly they belong to. Follow the process for the other major assemblies in the transmission. If you can pull the head and crank apart then I am sure you can do the transmission.
 
Thank you tim for that useful information!

Just talked to my blasting technician, he told me that they already blasted a fully assembled guzzi engine...but the risk of course is on the side of the customer...
Thought about filling the engine up with diesel and then getting it to the blaster but I guess I have to bite the bullet and remove the gears from the case.
Do you guys think also that I will need to remove the selector cams?

Thanks!
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Do NOT blast it with glass or silicate media. Plastic or walnut is the way to go. Tried to get my cases dry-ice blasted but the engine paint was too tough so they used plastic beads. I taped up my cases and plugged them as best i could, still there was a lot of beads left inside, the spray just tears away any tape or plastic film you may apply. Best would be as said before, just plug all oilways.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Oh and one more thing! Completely rinse all engine parts from any oil. Media will cling to it and will suck to get out.
 
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