jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
I'll have to look later tonight. The tires on it are shitty "vintage style". I have a set of avon roadriders waiting to go on.
CB77 Superhawk Build
- Thread starter jsharpphoto
- Start date
v30magna
Been Around the Block
I like the way your front tire is really small, just wondering if it's a 2.50 or a 2.75. Most trendy people nowadays want as big a tire as you can fit. I'm wanting my front tire to be about the size of yours, with maybe a slightly smaller rear. I wanna run a little vintage style ribbed tire up front (probably vee rubber) and a Michelin Gazelle out back. It'll give my bike a vintage look, but I'm finding that's more what I'm after.
As far as the mono shock goes, I think you could get away with it, but since the bike's waist is just a tube with no other bracing, you may sacrifice handling. The rear shocks are tied in to the geometry that gives this bike stability. I do recommend a new swingarm with real bearings if you go thru with it. I have seen pictures of a guy with a leaf spring rear end on a cb77, so go nuts.
As far as the mono shock goes, I think you could get away with it, but since the bike's waist is just a tube with no other bracing, you may sacrifice handling. The rear shocks are tied in to the geometry that gives this bike stability. I do recommend a new swingarm with real bearings if you go thru with it. I have seen pictures of a guy with a leaf spring rear end on a cb77, so go nuts.
jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
I passed on the mono shock idea. It was really a mental diversion rather than a project idea.
The front fender has the stock brace. I'm fairly certain the front tire currently on there is a 2.75. It's also flat, so that might effect its appearance in the photo.
I'm almost done with my fiberglass rear hugger.
The front fender has the stock brace. I'm fairly certain the front tire currently on there is a 2.75. It's also flat, so that might effect its appearance in the photo.
I'm almost done with my fiberglass rear hugger.
v30magna
Been Around the Block
ok, thanks for the info. I didn't know if someone had put a 2.50 on there, but a flat 2.75 explains it.
How's the hugger looking? I was looking at no rear fender, then a full rear fender without the duck bill and tail/bracket, but now I've got a generic ribbed rear fender from a hack-job 305 chopper I bought off of e-bay a few weeks ago. I've been thinking of using it. It has a flare at the rear like the black bombers had.
Back to the front fender/brace, I saw mention of the front end on these bikes being updated. I know the stock fender has a mount, but it's soft enough to bend with my hands. a more rigid brace would improve handling.
How's the hugger looking? I was looking at no rear fender, then a full rear fender without the duck bill and tail/bracket, but now I've got a generic ribbed rear fender from a hack-job 305 chopper I bought off of e-bay a few weeks ago. I've been thinking of using it. It has a flare at the rear like the black bombers had.
Back to the front fender/brace, I saw mention of the front end on these bikes being updated. I know the stock fender has a mount, but it's soft enough to bend with my hands. a more rigid brace would improve handling.
jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
the rear hugger project is coming along great. It's super strong, just enough flex that it would give a little if somehow the tire hit it, but the only way that could happen is if the chain/axel adjusters failed.
I haven't identified exactly how i'm going to attach it to the swing arm, i've got some ideas, and it may have to be a trial and error system. I want the fender to disappear as much as possible, so that reduces how much I can brace it.
I haven't identified exactly how i'm going to attach it to the swing arm, i've got some ideas, and it may have to be a trial and error system. I want the fender to disappear as much as possible, so that reduces how much I can brace it.
jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
I'm thinking of making the whole mounting plate out of aluminum.
jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
is that what you ran on the fairing'd 77 race bike you showed in this thread?
jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
Thanks for the tip about the RC93.
I'm going to pursue my current idea. I really want this cb77 build to be unique, so I'm trying not to use any factory race parts. I know low hanging fruit taste blah blah blah, but I like to build things.
I'm going to pursue my current idea. I really want this cb77 build to be unique, so I'm trying not to use any factory race parts. I know low hanging fruit taste blah blah blah, but I like to build things.
v30magna
Been Around the Block
I've got a few glass tips:
With curves as sharp as a fender, when you lay fiberglass, lay it in strips as wide as will make the curve, imagine the bands in a tire (V's comming together heavily overlapping, going toward the rear tip) You'll have the sturdiest, straitest piece you can make from the resin and glass without a vac mold. Extra resin and gel coat will fill in the ridges. make sure to use plenty of resin. The edges you trim should be atleast 1/16 inch thick and very solid, trim with some sort of saw or it'll chip (no shears). Layering resin creates weak spots. If a piece is pored all in one batch, it's the strongest. Fiberglass Resin Gel (green stuff, turns brown when mixed with hardner) is another product I think you might enjoy working with. It's like waterproof bondo that adheres better and doesn't sag as bad when applied to verticals. It basically works like people wish Bondo did, but nobody buys it because it costs more.
With curves as sharp as a fender, when you lay fiberglass, lay it in strips as wide as will make the curve, imagine the bands in a tire (V's comming together heavily overlapping, going toward the rear tip) You'll have the sturdiest, straitest piece you can make from the resin and glass without a vac mold. Extra resin and gel coat will fill in the ridges. make sure to use plenty of resin. The edges you trim should be atleast 1/16 inch thick and very solid, trim with some sort of saw or it'll chip (no shears). Layering resin creates weak spots. If a piece is pored all in one batch, it's the strongest. Fiberglass Resin Gel (green stuff, turns brown when mixed with hardner) is another product I think you might enjoy working with. It's like waterproof bondo that adheres better and doesn't sag as bad when applied to verticals. It basically works like people wish Bondo did, but nobody buys it because it costs more.
jsharpphoto
Coast to Coast
v30magna said:
thanks for taking the time to write that up, but i'm fairly confident in my glass-working skills. i'm no pro, but my fender came out just about perfect, and rigid as hell.
