Simplified Wiring Digrams

Is there any issues with running all the power through the ignition switch? Or is it better to run it off a relay triggered by the switch?

Eg: Battery -> Ignition switch -> Coils, headlight, etc
 
Depending on the component(s) you're powerering, there can be some benefit by using the relay approach. Usually it's high(er)-draw components (such as headlight and/or ignition coils) that see the greatest effect. 95% of the time I just run the power through the ignition switch, though. It's how it was designed to work to begin with.
 
I'm planning on doing a completely new harness because I want to remove some things and move some stuff around and think I'll be better off just starting from scratch because of the current state of the harness. Currently the bike only starts when it's in neutral, I'm gripping the clutch and the side-stand is up, but I'm a (nearly) grown-ass man and I want to be able to start my bike whenever I damn well please to so that stuff has to go. Pretty straight-forward I thought, but I just can't make any sense of what the side-stand diode is doing, could anyone shed a light on my wiring diagram?

Somewhat figured it, what do you guys think?

On the ignition coil there's a W and an O/W wire, am I correct in thinking the W only gives pulses for the timing and the actual juice comes from the O/W wire? If so, does that mean I can start the engine when the kill switch is in the kill position?

If so, that would mean I can just remove all the crap with sidestand in its name and immediately connect the kill-switch to the O wire from the ignition switch? And the wire from the neutral indicator light can just immediately go to the neutral switch?

Then I can connect the start switch immediately to the starter relay and Bob's my uncle?


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Full size: http://i.imgur.com/6NrRC0j.jpg
 
Diodes ensure that current flows only in one direction.

In this case, it lets your neutral switch act as a ground for the neutral indicator light as well as sidestand switch and relay, but without either of those things grounding each other in the process. When your sidestand relay is removed, the diode can come out, too. The ground side of the neutral indicator light can then be routed directly to the neutral switch.
 
Just saw this thread and have a Suzuki 4 cylinder basic schematic to contribute. (3 page pdf)
Let me know if it has already been submitted and I'll delete it to keep from clogging this great thread.
 

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Sonreir said:
Diodes ensure that current flows only in one direction.

In this case, it lets your neutral switch act as a ground for the neutral indicator light as well as sidestand switch and relay, but without either of those things grounding each other in the process. When your sidestand relay is removed, the diode can come out, too. The ground side of the neutral indicator light can then be routed directly to the neutral switch.


Thanks! Was just editing my post when you replied, glad to have it confirmed. :)


Hoosier Daddy said:
Just saw this thread and have a Suzuki 4 cylinder basic schematic to contribute.
Let me know if it has already been submitted and I'll delete it to keep from clogging this great thread.


Definitely useful, thanks!
 
Here is my Diagram for a '74 Honda CB360T
 

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Just a point for peoples who live in states where spot checks are not unheard of: If police are looking to find things wrong with bikes to impound them and make life miserable, all they need is to check the headlamp switch.

According to DOT regulations, a headlamp cannot have a dead spot between Low and High, but can have a moment when both are one. Cheap on-off switches often have a dead spot in the middle.

And the light switch is required to be on the left bar.

Is that an issue for you? Only you can determine that, but it's useful to know what the law is. Just to really mess things up, different states have their own laws and regulations so what's legal in one state could potentially be illegal in another.

It comes down to how much of a PIA are cops in your town/county/state and how much attention your bike draws. Mine is big and loud and colorful and stands out, so I try to be aware and not draw too much unwanted attention.
 
Wiring for my Suzuki GN125, got rid of the neutral, clutch and sidestand switch breaking the starting circuit, the light switch and parking lights, so it's an always but with a Hi/Lo and the parking mode for the ignition which would only enable the parking lights. Only thing I'm not sure of are fuses, stock it only has a 15 amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch, but that seems pretty marginal to me, what do you guys think?


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Full size: http://i.imgur.com/StAwjrv.png
 
Would any of these diagrams be applicable for a 73 CB750? If not, would someone be able to do one?
 
you guys mind picking my wire digram apart. I just completed it...????
 

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High beam indicator needs a feed from the high beam, too. Start button doesn't usually need a ground as it's grounded through the bars. There shouldn't be a brown wire for the headlight, either. Brown wire is for parking lights, so if you put a brown wire on the headlight, you'll drain the battery if you switch the key to park. Headlight needs a black wire or to be fed from the handlebar switch. I'm pretty sure the SL350 K0 had on/off switch for the headlight as well as dimmer.
 
Sonreir said:
High beam indicator needs a feed from the high beam, too. Start button doesn't usually need a ground as it's grounded through the bars. There shouldn't be a brown wire for the headlight, either. Brown wire is for parking lights, so if you put a brown wire on the headlight, you'll drain the battery if you switch the key to park. Headlight needs a black wire or to be fed from the handlebar switch. I'm pretty sure the SL350 K0 had on/off switch for the headlight as well as dimmer.

So I slapped myself for not providing some info...
Not sure I am going to wire up the high beam... This is because I am doing custom controls. One for the turn signal, left side. An start on the right, witch is why I added the ground for the start button. I am up in the air on a kill switch and high beams, this is an day/town cruiser for the wife.

The brown wire for the headlight was ran through the ignition cause there is not going to be an on/off switch. Just want it to always be on for her.

At last I am up in the air for a fuse block. I was thinking ignition, charging, aux, lighting

Thoughts?
 
Brown wire doesn't have power unless you have the ignition switch in 'park', so if you're wanting an always on setup, remove all the brown wires on the bike and replace with black.
 
Sonreir said:
Brown wire doesn't have power unless you have the ignition switch in 'park', so if you're wanting an always on setup, remove all the brown wires on the bike and replace with black.
Oh I didn't know that, so how does the running tail light get power? I see how the rear brake works...
 
When you turn the headlight on and the ignition switch is in the 'on' position, the brown/white wires from the headlight control feeds power into the backlights on the gauges as well as feeding power into the brown/white wire on the ignition switch. The power then comes out on the brown wire to the tail light and running lights (if present).
 
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