Honda Twins - Three Phase Alternator Project

Technically, yes. Feasibly, no.

Most companies have opted to include cell-balancing technology along with the battery. EarthX (the brand we carry) was one of the first to start doing so and most of the major manufacturers have started doing it as well. Generally, if the battery is advertised as not needing a special charger, the electronics are usually inside the battery.
 
So... Tex... you want the 18 gauge one of the 16 gauge?

I'm expecting the total output of the 16 gauge to be better, but the 18 gauge unit should come on sooner in the RPM range. With any luck, both should be making usable power at idle, though.
 
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Sonreir said:
So... Tex... you want the 18 gauge one of the 16 gauge?

I'm expecting the total output of the 16 gauge to be better, but the 18 gauge unit should come on sooner in the RPM range. With any luck, but should be making usable power at idle, though.
Let's go counterintuitive and do 18 with the usable power at idle.


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That's right bigger is not better even in Texas lol


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Can you post a picture of the 3 phase reg/rec with dimensions. Zoöid is function having to follow form lol...


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Sonreir what do you project the DC voltage to be at idle?


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It's hard to say. I tried running the calculations, but without knowing exactly how strong the magnets are in the rotor, it was sort of best-guess territory. If we see mid-13s (using LED headlights), I'll be pretty happy. If we break the 14V mark, we'll need to watch voltage at high revs and be sure the regulator is handling things OK.
 
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Sonreir said:
It's hard to say. I tried running the calculations, but without knowing exactly how strong the magnets are in the rotor, it was sort of best-guess territory. If we see mid-13s (using LED headlights), I'll be pretty happy. If we break the 14V mark, we'll need to watch voltage at high revs and be sure the regulator is handling things OK.
Ok we are trying to have Zoöid tested and ready for Barber. I have another 175 case that we can mill out to test with...I have a LONG list of problems/opportunities to tackle before we leave... we have our other Sparckmoto reg rectifier mounted where the key switch use to be. As you can see we are building the shortest wiring loom ever. We have the headlights on two dedicated on off switches with one switch has a bright lower white Led with the Top Yellow Led. The other switch is an overtake light and then with the first switch off the brights come on both top and bottom...yea we fancy. Lol.

Here is our biggest problem. The speedcell 4 cell small pack original will run the bike no problem but will not charge fast enough to keep up with the head light draw using our current charging system. The speed cell does not have battery charging balance technology. As of right now the speed cell is mounted in the front headlight. That would be an ideal place unless it blows up.

I am going to attach Zooids headlight to the HO stator we have mounted on our CL and test it tonight. It currently powers the Jeep LED headight on bright with the taillight with no problem.


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I finished up the soldering on the stator last night. I'll get it into the mail along with a new R/R in the next day or so.
 
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Sonreir said:
I finished up the soldering on the stator last night. I'll get it into the mail along with a new R/R in the next day or so.
Sonreir can you also make a harness from the stator to the reg mounted at the key switch and leave us 2' of red and green to mount to our fuse box? Where we can be plug and play? I can get you lengths and pictures later.


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Yup. Just grab me some measurements and I'll have it ready to go.

Also, I'll be sending the 16 gauge unit. I discovered the wrong way to mount the new units when testing out the 18 gauge version, and the 18 gauge stator is no longer functional. :-[ :-X :-\
 
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Sonreir said:
Yup. Just grab me some measurements and I'll have it ready to go.

Also, I'll be sending the 16 gauge unit. I discovered the wrong way to mount the new units when testing out the 18 gauge version, and the 18 gauge stator is no longer functional. :-[ :-X :-\
Did you get the measurements? I put them on Zooids string.


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Uh, no. Sorry.

How long did you need the wires to reach? I'm looking for total length from alternator to regulator/rectifier.
 
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Sonreir said:
Uh, no. Sorry.

How long did you need the wires to reach? I'm looking for total length from alternator to regulator/rectifier.
39" from alternator to reg/rec. Then 2' for the green Red to the fuse box. Thank you!


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No problem. There's a black voltage sensing wire as well. I assume that will be running to the fuse box, too?
 
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Sonreir said:
No problem. There's a black voltage sensing wire as well. I assume that will be running to the fuse box, too?
Please


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Speaking of insulating. Does this fuse panel need to be insulated also?
cb3dc8bd1b9802a1c29561ab8a5471f3.jpg



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Not unless you plan on building a submarine. :D

12V is rarely enough voltage to short out due to moisture. The primary concern is corrosion, so I try to keep my electronics from totally inundated, but a bit of water now and then won't do much harm so long is it dries off sooner rather than later.
 
Sonreir said:
Not unless you plan on building a submarine. :D

12V is rarely enough voltage to short out due to moisture. The primary concern is corrosion, so I try to keep my electronics from totally inundated, but a bit of water now and then won't do much harm so long is it dries off sooner rather than later.
Just want to make sure. Ok for testing purposes here is the current equipment
2 Morimoto Modpod LEDon low 160mA on bright 580mA ea.
1 Morimoto Min Modpod LED 50mA on low 180mA

Total .37 amp on low and 1.5 amp on high

4.44 watts on low 18 watts on high.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/daytime-running-lights/morimoto-mod-pod-led-lights.html

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/daytime-running-lights/morimoto-mod-pod-mini-led-lights.html


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