'74 CB360 cafe pretty much finished.
- Thread starter dp9
- Start date
dp9
Coast to Coast
Rear sets, as per request:
I used the cheapest universal rearsets i could find on ebay ($99+ the ride) and put them in the passenger peg holes. fit without a problem. they were orig alum color, so i sprayed them black with a rattle can. they'll have a nice worn look soon. I used some alum tubing and clevis rod ends (cheapest I could find, $15 for 8 ft of tubing, and rod ends were $5 ea.) from McMaster-Carr for the linkage. tapped the tubing for the male rod ends (5/16-24). I used a RH thread and a LH threaded rod end for each linkage. I didnt have room for bolt heads and nuts in the clevises, so I used some clevis pins with e-clips from McMaster-Carr.
Left side: Used the stock shift lever, cut to length, and drilled a hole for the clevis pin. Had to clearance the tubing in one spot for a bolt that stuck out. just used an angle grinder for that.
Right side: I attached the linkage to the little arm that the rear brake light switch hooks onto. It was just a hook, so I had a buddy weld a regular washer onto it. Now the linkage can push on it. I hooked the spring for the brake light switch around the clevis pin btwn the lever arm and the rod end. no problems. I left the rest of the brake system alone, and just cut the stock brake lever off just below where the spring contacts it.
I used the cheapest universal rearsets i could find on ebay ($99+ the ride) and put them in the passenger peg holes. fit without a problem. they were orig alum color, so i sprayed them black with a rattle can. they'll have a nice worn look soon. I used some alum tubing and clevis rod ends (cheapest I could find, $15 for 8 ft of tubing, and rod ends were $5 ea.) from McMaster-Carr for the linkage. tapped the tubing for the male rod ends (5/16-24). I used a RH thread and a LH threaded rod end for each linkage. I didnt have room for bolt heads and nuts in the clevises, so I used some clevis pins with e-clips from McMaster-Carr.
Left side: Used the stock shift lever, cut to length, and drilled a hole for the clevis pin. Had to clearance the tubing in one spot for a bolt that stuck out. just used an angle grinder for that.
Right side: I attached the linkage to the little arm that the rear brake light switch hooks onto. It was just a hook, so I had a buddy weld a regular washer onto it. Now the linkage can push on it. I hooked the spring for the brake light switch around the clevis pin btwn the lever arm and the rod end. no problems. I left the rest of the brake system alone, and just cut the stock brake lever off just below where the spring contacts it.
dp9
Coast to Coast
I just saw your post on the thread where I said i wanted to go back to midsets. sorry about the head fake on that. my back was killing me the first couple days, so i posted that thread, now its better after i got used to riding, so i'm gonna keep the rear sets.
i had the carbs ultrasonically cleaned, and re-jetted as per the average starting point recommended by a couple threads. Those filters are bigger than soda cans (lots of air), and i put some little 4" race baffles in the end of the head pipes. the stock jets were 35 slow, 100 main (or at least thats what was in there). The shop couldnt pull the slow jets b/c they were stuck, so they drilled them out one size to 36. From the threads I read, I wanted to go up 4 sizes on the mains. the calculations go in increments of 2.5, but jets go in whole numbers. 4 sizes up is 110. The guy at the shop convinced me more was better, and since i love that logic, i went with 115 mains, and bought some other sizes (110, 120, 125). Last time I touched a carb, the car never ran again, so I figured I'd let a professional do the fine tuning. I'm gonna take it to Cold Hearted Customs in Lebanon, NJ as soon as I can find someone to let me use their truck to haul it up there.
at first, it ran pretty damn good, but its been getting worse and worse. not sure what the problem is but it feels like one cylinder keeps cutting out. might be electrical, I have no idea. I'll have the carbs tuned up, and if it still runs poorly, i'll check the ignition. anyway, it ran well initially with 36 slow, 115 mains.
i had the carbs ultrasonically cleaned, and re-jetted as per the average starting point recommended by a couple threads. Those filters are bigger than soda cans (lots of air), and i put some little 4" race baffles in the end of the head pipes. the stock jets were 35 slow, 100 main (or at least thats what was in there). The shop couldnt pull the slow jets b/c they were stuck, so they drilled them out one size to 36. From the threads I read, I wanted to go up 4 sizes on the mains. the calculations go in increments of 2.5, but jets go in whole numbers. 4 sizes up is 110. The guy at the shop convinced me more was better, and since i love that logic, i went with 115 mains, and bought some other sizes (110, 120, 125). Last time I touched a carb, the car never ran again, so I figured I'd let a professional do the fine tuning. I'm gonna take it to Cold Hearted Customs in Lebanon, NJ as soon as I can find someone to let me use their truck to haul it up there.
at first, it ran pretty damn good, but its been getting worse and worse. not sure what the problem is but it feels like one cylinder keeps cutting out. might be electrical, I have no idea. I'll have the carbs tuned up, and if it still runs poorly, i'll check the ignition. anyway, it ran well initially with 36 slow, 115 mains.
