FRANKENHONDA II the 1982 DOHC CB 750F2 Build

Righto

So last time when I was installing the rear disc I had an issue that the studs were too short. At the time I was unable to source the originals from anywhere, that was until just before I flew out for work last time. This is when I placed my order for the rear sprocket studs and nuts and also the studs for the rear disc

So after a littler perseverance I got the sprocket studs to all seat in properly. Then I turned my attention to the disc studs.

Unfortunately I had to remove the old ones first which was a bit of a pain in the ass. In my sleep deprived state, I was unable to work an easier solution out other than use pliers and vice grips to get them out.

When I lay the proper studs side by side With the old ones you can see just how short I was. If you thought I was unimpressed with the length you should have heard what she said.

Anyway I slowly got them all out, I even had to get the file out to square off two sides on one of the stubborn studs so I could use a small shifter to unscrew it.

I ended up running a tap down the threads which made a whole world of difference when reinstalling the new studs then I just nipped the nuts down.

Do you guys use loctite on these ? Or if I do them to the correct torque they’re good?

So after reinstalling the rear wheel back on I then thought I’d turn my attention to the camshafts.

So first I remover the rotor stator cover, then the timing cover so I could tell when I was at TDC 1.4. I grabbed the intake and exhaust cams then out them in place.

I thought I’d turn my old friend YouTube for a little guidance as to how many journals I should have installed (turns out A and E for the exhaust).... it was at this point I lost consciousness on the couch I believe the red eye flight last night finally caught up to me.

Now that I’me more coherent I think I’ll spend the rest of the evening researching how to make sure the cams and timing are right and also how to install the M switch for my ignition.




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I do believe that red locktite is in order as most studs are fit with a tighter engagement on the end intended for sinking, and you have probably loosened that a bit with the tap.

pidjones said:

I do believe that red locktite is in order as most studs are fit with a tighter engagement on the end intended for sinking, and you have probably loosened that a bit with the tap.

Click to expand...

Sage words of advice. I just took out all the studs including the sprocket ones even though I hadn't tapped the threads for those, better to be safe than sorry. I even put some blue locktite on the nuts for the brake disc before torquing them up. I've left the sprocket nuts just nipped up for now just encase i have to remove it for some reason. I have a 520 chain sprocket on the rear, so now I will need to find a replacement for the front sprocket then a chain to suit I reckon she will take a little bit of hunting.

think before the fatigue kicks in I'll try an nut out these cams

Well I had the cam in place put the chain on and did the first bolt up to fix the sprocket in position. In my hast I put all the cam bearing caps on only to realise that the one closest to the sprocket would be in my way to install the last bolt.

So as I was undoing the bolt for the bearing cap, Murphy’s law struck and the socket cam off the ratchet and fell into the motor.

Pretty pissed at myself right now, I’ve taken the sump off and no joy, I had a magnet on a stick and that’s broken (thankfully not inside the engine also) I’m now at a loss how to get the socket out I’m open to suggestions but I’m going to call it a night for now


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Crap. Well, maybe a well-rested start will reveal a simple solution. Like a trip to the store and pick up a good magnetic pickup tool? I've also used a 3/8" plastic tube duct taped off to the end of a shop vac hose - suck it up to the tube and gently pull the tube out.

I’m liking the plastic tube on the vac idea


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I guess you have already tried hanging it upside down and shaking it in the hope that gravity will do the job ...

Crazy

As Im a klutz this is my goto tool,it has a magnet,claw and a reasonably bright led in the end
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-pick-up-tool---claw-spring-led/293797.html#q=Pick%2BUp%2BTool&lang=en_AU

We have success I can’t upload the video, but it involved turning the motor up side down and using a camera to locate the socket then an extendable magnet to fish it out. I’m so happy right now


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stroker crazy said:

I guess you have already tried hanging it upside down and shaking it in the hope that gravity will do the job ...

Crazy

Click to expand...

Yep tried this first didn’t even hear a rattle the socket must have just found the perfect nook to sit in


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It’s been an exciting 24hrs.

After successfully removing the offending 10mm socket it was time to continue installing the cams.

The exhaust cam was just about sorted. I removed the two bearing caps to allow access to the sprocket bolts and installed the last bolt securing the sprocket.

Next was the intake cam, in installed the cam but the small cam chain was way too loose. You can see the flex in the photos. I couldn’t work out what the drama was. I ended up messaging Brent Hyde who let me know that I needed to install the AMH tensioner, and also to put washers underneath the B cam tensioner.

You can see in the photo where it was right next to the abyss of doom. So this time I jammed a rag there just encase. Only pain in the ass was each time you adjust this you need to remove the intake cam, undo the tensioner on the AMH tensioner before removing it, unbolt the B cam tensioner and install your washers, then put it all back in to check the tension is correct ( had to do this three times but in the end well worth it)

I used a ruler again to make sure the timing marks on the intake sprocket and the ends of the cam were all sweet and better yet the movement in the cam chain was gone.

I’ve called it a night. Tomorrow I will locktite the sprocket bolts in, then modify the slipper guide and install the last of the bearing caps. I’m wondering if I should locktite the B cam tensioner bolt also . Then I will need to reinstall the sump and sump pump and give everything a torque up to spec then I think we are nearly ready to put this engine into the frame

She’s definitely been hard fought and won




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Little something arrived in the mail today a day earlier than expected. I think she looks dam purdy


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So today got a few runs on the score board.

I found some of the bearing cap bolts were just about shagged and none of the bolt places have capped bolts the same so I ended up talking with Rex from T. Rex racing in Heidelberg about bolt options for the bearing caps he recommended the unbreko Allen bolts which did the job.

Then once again Brent Hyde got me out of the shit in the first photo I had put the bracket for the AHM tensioner on upside down, I was wondering why I couldn’t get the final top chain guard to fit properly. A quick rework then bam better than new.

I torqued up the sprockets both exhaust and intake and everything else then she was ready to be closed up.

Before putting the cam cover on I changed all the runners on the cam cover bolts then put her on.

I put the carb boots on because I was going to do a test run to see if the carbs cleared the AHM tensioner bolt that sticks out the back of the head. But when I tried the carbs all the spacings are incorrect, so I’m going to call it a night.

Tomorrow I’ll read up on changing the spacing on the CRs I’m hoping you just back of the bolts and slide it out to suit. Unfortunately my ultra sonic cleaner has been delayed a week so I’m no sure how I’m going to go with that.

But finally the motor looks like it’s something that may actually run, now to refresh myself on the wiring


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Man are you ever doing this thing proud. It's looking great mate, and the attention to detail is really something. Great work.

If you really can't wait another week for the ultrasonic cleaner to show up then you could always soak the carbs in Pinesol overnight. Knock off all the loose crap first, soak each in a Pinesol bath and you may be surprised at how clean they come up. You'll need to blast them with carb cleaner and compressed air after and go through the cleaning process, but the overnight Pinesol soak does a pretty effective job. Sorry if I'm mistaken and you needed the ultrasonic cleaner for something else, I can't remember exactly. (you can see how my carbs came up in my current build thread)

Looking great man, damn. Ohlins. Nice. 8)

Oh, and I like the two small filters that you have in place of the hoses. Do they delete the need for the crank case breather hoses completely? Just a straight swap?

Edit - forgetaboutit! Pinesol's fine if you want them clean, but this bike deserves them really clean. Ultrasonic all the way.

Awesome progress! Gonna look spectacular all finished up. Factory fresh.

Jimbonaut said:

Man are you ever doing this thing proud. It's looking great mate, and the attention to detail is really something. Great work.

If you really can't wait another week for the ultrasonic cleaner to show up then you could always soak the carbs in Pinesol overnight. Knock off all the loose crap first, soak each in a Pinesol bath and you may be surprised at how clean they come up. You'll need to blast them with carb cleaner and compressed air after and go through the cleaning process, but the overnight Pinesol soak does a pretty effective job. Sorry if I'm mistaken and you needed the ultrasonic cleaner for something else, I can't remember exactly. (you can see how my carbs came up in my current build thread)

Looking great man, damn. Ohlins. Nice. 8)

Oh, and I like the two small filters that you have in place of the hoses. Do they delete the need for the crank case breather hoses completely? Just a straight swap?

Edit - forgetaboutit! Pinesol's fine if you want them clean, but this bike deserves them really clean. Ultrasonic all the way.

Click to expand...

Yea the filters do, with this particular mod I have actually gone against function over form. This set up is not ideal as if you ride in the wet or was the bike there is potential for water ingress through the breathers. I’ll just have to be mindful of it.

Well here I was thinking easy peasy with the adjustment of the spacing on the CRs. I backed off all the 10 mm bolts top and bottom on the slide brackets and also these screws pictured.

I had to move number 2 carb which has fixed position holes from where it was to the fixed holes farthest to the left and also the number 1 carb all the way to the left to fit the carb boots.

Now I can’t seem to get 3 and 4 to slide to the right, feels as if it’s binding on the shaft here which actuated the slide. My luck as it is I feel, if I were to use brute force here some thing would break.

The ultrasonic cleaner still isn’t here which is holding up the rebuild of the carbs. I’ve put a shout out to a carb guru from MCR here so I’m hoping he can bestow some wisdom upon me, or better yet some assistance.

I think now that I’ve hit a block here I’ll turn my attention to getting this RFID start set up.


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Well after cleaning the garage for 2 hours I was ready to turn my attention to the electrics... then I realised it’s gonna be hard to test with no multimeter, so after a detour to Jaycar I was armed and ready.
So I tested my purpose built moto switches that I had threaded through the handlebars, in preparation of connecting the M button up.

The three buttons on the left switch working perfectly, but all three buttons on the right switch failed the continuity test ... I shouldn’t be surprised they got super hot when I was trying to solder on the wires. To be honest my poor soldering skills are only part of the reason it failed. The design and switches could have allowed for a little more room for the wires. I sourced some more switches exactly the same $3 a pop I ordered extra in anticipation of the same thing happening.

Unfortunately the switches probably won’t arrive until I leave for work again, looks like she might not be as done as I would have liked. I have some other switches that I’ll use for the sake of testing the circuit.

So not much achieved today





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Awesome build man, I’ve been following along! Maybe I’m hallucinating but if you put the #2 carb in the other set of fixed holes, wouldn’t it put the rest more in the middle of their respective slots giving you a little more adjustment?


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C-DUB_07 said:

Awesome build man, I’ve been following along! Maybe I’m hallucinating but if you put the #2 carb in the other set of fixed holes, wouldn’t it put the rest more in the middle of their respective slots giving you a little more adjustment?


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Click to expand...

So I’ve marked up the carbs the ones with the green ticks are ok. I need to increase the space in between 2-3 and 3-4 to the right

A friend of mine took photos of his looks like on the right he has managed to do what I have on the left, perhaps I’m. It trying hard enough.



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There’s the reason for my troubles I reckon


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