1984 Yamaha FJ 600- Rise of "The Mighty Jig"

Id change the sprockets along with the chain only because your new chain will wear more quickly to already worn sprockets. But its not critical just some insite.
 
So, at the advise of, well, everyone, new front and rear sprockets are on order (16 front, 45 rear, factory spec)

Here's the dirty mess behind the sprocket cover:
FJgears003.jpg


Sprocket doesn't look tooooo challenging:
FJgears002.jpg


And the gunk that collected over the years (currently soaking in Simple Green)
FJgears001.jpg


And YET AGAIN, while reassembing the slave cylinder/horn mount, I sheared off the hex-fitting. I'll be drilling thisn one out for a while:
FJgears006.jpg


Thanks for looking
 
I'm thoroughly enjoying this project. Always loved the FJ600's. After 34 bikes maybe someday I'll get to rebuild one. As far polidhing up htr aluminum CAsewell has sanding paste in various grits from 180 to 600 and them polishing sticks. They work extremely well and fast worth getting. Check them out lots of other cool stuff as well. http://www.caswellplating.com/buffing-polishing/buffing-compounds.html
 
I guess I can afford to show some progress:

Front wheel is back on (all new wheel bearings):
intenttofinish001.jpg


I wound up comrimising on the stuck/sheared fastener. Ok, so I used a zip-tie.
intenttofinish002.jpg


Rear tire mounted (by hand!) note new rear sprocket (and all new wheel bearings, here, too):
intenttofinish003.jpg


New Front sprocket, too. A lot cleaned up, as well:
intenttofinish004.jpg


Inside of the sprocket-cover case cleaned up satisfactorally:
intenttofinish005.jpg


Handle-bar bolt covers are hard to come by. So, instead, I found these $1 1" grommet covers at Home depot.
intenttofinish006.jpg


The $9 exterior grommet for the guage cluster I fashioned out of some rubber plug I found when I was walking my dog:
intenttofinish007.jpg


Front fender chip: I'm sort of stuck with it, but hey, I never said I was bringing it back to showroom condition, right?
intenttofinish008.jpg
 
usually when someone says needle assemblys i assume they are talking about the needle valve and seat which the float is attached to so in that case, that is number 10. and as for the enrichning circuit assembly id assume he is talking about the starter set which is number 24. So many people call things different names its hard to tell so try to get some more info from him just to be sure. I just looked up parts for your bike here at the shop directly from yamaha, it seems that is the same diagram we have as the one you are showing and the same names of parts so just double check with him.
 
PROJECT IS NOT DEAD!

Getting to the dirty stuff, at last! Rear shock and swingarm removed. I have SOME parts that I pre-bought on reccommendations of stuff that usually needs replacing.

Got the word from my buddy (Brooks cycle center, in Northern VA) that the carbs are ready to ship, thus, the reason I go my tail into gear to go over the hindquarters.

One other project is to use some 3M plastic cement and web-type-stuff to strengthen the mouting tabs on the new-to-me replacement fairing I bought about a year ago. With the age of the stuff, the ABS is probably leaning towards being brittle, so I think that looking into a way to bolster it up without going redneck (i.e. duct tape) on it would be in my best interest.

See if you can spot the $50 in this picture.

fjrearwork010.jpg


If you guessed THIS part, you win. It's the rear shock adustment belt (Yamaha part number 33M-22266-00-00) that is about $50 shipped, no matter where I get it from.

fjrearwork011.jpg



Why it has to be replaced.
fjrearwork013.jpg


The swing arm, pre-gumk removed. it's about 35 degrees out, and I'm about to take a pressure washer to it.

fjrearwork014.jpg


The rear shock. There's still some blue paint on the spring. Really.
fjrearwork015.jpg


One word. yuk.
fjrearwork016.jpg
 
Thats the kind of mess that makes me not even want to touch things sometimes and say screw it where's the parts book. God speed sir!
 
Kickeroo!! i've got the same cycle!! this last winter i rebuilt the carbs, put everything together and she started!! ran really rough though, the carbs need to be synced. took it out for a ride, got to the edge of the yard and hit a patch of ice!! now i've got a right turn signal to replace....

looks like you're doing a heck of a nice job! look forward in hearing a final update, or the first ride of the season.

my daughter wants this old bike, she's been nagging me for a year now, she's going to be 17 this may, i'll be signing her up for cycle riding classes for her present, DON'T ANYONE TELL HER THOUGH!! she asked me today to teach her how to ride 'cause she's so jellous of seeing all the other cycles out today. today was our first 70* day of the year...

here's mine, it's an old photo, but other than a broken right turn signal, pretty much the same.;

yamaha.jpg
 
Ok, kids, and kittens....it's a milestone day.

Long story short....had to sell my Thruxton to pay bills, my 01 V11 Sport is in hospital with a total engine rebuild, so my attention turned back to this old girl.

10 AM EST, after 17+ years of being ignored, forgotten and written off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCzXyULJbWI

It's revving like hell, and I'm turning the idle adjuster to no avail. Any suggestions?
 
I've had this happen many times. go back and make sure the carbs. are ceaded right in the intakes and that you didn't over tighten the clamps. It's a vaccum leak and it is 99% at the intake. also did you at least bench sync the carbs.?
 
Kickeroo said:
PROJECT IS NOT DEAD!

Getting to the dirty stuff, at last! Rear shock and swingarm removed. I have SOME parts that I pre-bought on reccommendations of stuff that usually needs replacing.

Got the word from my buddy (Brooks cycle center, in Northern VA) that the carbs are ready to ship, thus, the reason I go my tail into gear to go over the hindquarters.

One other project is to use some 3M plastic cement and web-type-stuff to strengthen the mouting tabs on the new-to-me replacement fairing I bought about a year ago. With the age of the stuff, the ABS is probably leaning towards being brittle, so I think that looking into a way to bolster it up without going redneck (i.e. duct tape) on it would be in my best interest.

See if you can spot the $50 in this picture.

How about taking that belt over to NAPA and have them look. Probably something you could order. I buy lots of "motorcycle" parts from NAPA. They think I'm nuts when I walk through the door, but you'd be surprised how many times I find stuff I can make work. I have a 84 FJ600, it doesn't have that belt, maybe p.o. swapped the shock...

fjrearwork010.jpg


If you guessed THIS part, you win. It's the rear shock adustment belt (Yamaha part number 33M-22266-00-00) that is about $50 shipped, no matter where I get it from.

fjrearwork011.jpg



Why it has to be replaced.
fjrearwork013.jpg


The swing arm, pre-gumk removed. it's about 35 degrees out, and I'm about to take a pressure washer to it.

fjrearwork014.jpg


The rear shock. There's still some blue paint on the spring. Really.
fjrearwork015.jpg


One word. yuk.
fjrearwork016.jpg
 
I've been checking, and checking and checking for a source of a vacuum leak.

Carbs are evenly installed, so they are not crooked in the inlets.

The vacuum lines (from carbs 1 and 4) back to the fuel petcock are intact. The shared vacuum pressurization lines (carbs 2 and 3) do not seem to be compromised

There is nothing (i.e. the choke cable) putting any "pull" on the throttle cable

The clamps on the inlets seem to be snug, but I don't have anything other than "feel" to determine if they are too tight, too loose, or just right.

But still the bike comes to life screaming.

Is there something obvious I am missing?
 
It is very possible that something didn't get reassembled correctly in the carbs.
Slides could be spun out of alignment, main needles could have a washer below rather than above, you can swap air/fuel jets on some carbs too.
If you separated them, you could have the synch linkage wrong with 2 washers on 1 side rather than sandwiched.
Your choke linkage could be wrong. (buddy scored a cheap bike that didn't run because the choke lever was mis-assembled. 20 min later it ran great)


You get the point. There are a lot of tiny parts and it is easy to make a mistake.


First, I'd try leaving the carbs in the bike but disconnecting the throttle and choke cables from them.
Then see if the idle adjustment will work for you. (removing possible culprits, trying to isolate the issue to the component level at least.)
If no change, then pull the carbs and get to work.


Don't panic.


This is actually good news, because it RUNS! so you know it's likely not an ignition issue, or valve timing or any of the other systems.


This is almost certainly a carb/air leak issue. (but sometimes throttle cable issues can disguise themselves as carb issues, so pull them out of the equation to make sure)


Take your time and be methodical. You'll find it.


So nice to see one of these coming back to life. Well done!


Good luck!
 
It's 99% the throttle cable, from what I can ascertain.


Idling like an angry kitten now. Purrrfect
 
All electrics, with exception to brake lights, are present and accounted for.

It was 21 years ago TOMORROW that, with $500 cash and a vague idea of used bike shops around the Philadelphia area, I set out to find something new-to-me. That $500 turned out to be a down payment on $1600, but you get the idea.

Anyway, I decided to put my better judgment on the shelf and take it for a lap around the neighborhood. Fortunately, my GoPro decided to come along.

Quick review: Steering is SUPER LIGHT, and, well, feels a bit off centered. This bike was punted by a garbage truck in 94, but outside of cosmetics, I never thought there was any frame damage.

Could be I'm just spoiled with how great my Thruxton was, and V11 Sport is...or at least as I remember it.

It's a fun little video, to me at least. Song makes me tear up every time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzBejImtsQg
 
Would anyone have a clue as to WHY I have, what I'll call, an intermittent starter motor? Sometimes the bike cranks, sometimes it doesn't. Starter relay sounds like its doing its thing, and all other parameters (bike in neutral, start switch on, key turned) are accounted for. Is there an optimal voltage I need to keep charging into the battery? Does the old-school "hit the starter motor with a hammer" trick apply here? Just curious.
 
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