Down under, an idiot and a 400F

Cooked the caliper carriers in the house oven this morning. Mrs didn't bat an eyelid, luckily it didn't smoke or anything.

Mounted them up on the bike with some anti seize and used SS washers to get the correct offset. They are rock solid so think this will be more than enough to maintain feel:

095E459B-FF7E-4101-A350-BAB3E6D4F0FF-4746-00000451FF910115.jpg


6A2280BF-44C8-43C3-8A4E-FED00C236693-4746-0000045204CE7616.jpg


Also here is the first effort at brushing the headlight brackets. Doing it by hand is tough, I need a bench belt sander!

020912C9-1BA5-464E-8BCD-D6FD2069B3AE-4746-00000452092CD148.jpg


Would I need to paint clear over them afterwards to maintain the finish?
 
neevo said:
Ohhhhh your such a gem. I will let you know when you can come over a pick it all up, I assume you need the discs, wheel and calipers ;)

"The Rottweiler" - I like it. Definitely the look I'm after, tough.
Click to expand...

Ahaha what ever I can do to help you out ;D

A friend of mine has a fully grown male Rottweiler which we looked after for a month or so, to see him at full flight was hell impressive! I can't help but think/feel this is how you bike will also look :)
 
neevo said:
Cooked the caliper carriers in the house oven this morning. Mrs didn't bat an eyelid, luckily it didn't smoke or anything.

Also here is the first effort at brushing the headlight brackets. Doing it by hand is tough, I need a bench belt sander!
Would I need to paint clear over them afterwards to maintain the finish?
Click to expand...

I don't know how you get away with it :eek: if I even look to closely at the missus oven with any other intent than to clean it, Im dead!

those ears will loose their luster over time if you dont clear them :)
 
congrats on the sprog ;D
Leave headlamp mounting and keep some green scotchbrite handy to clean it when it dulls down
You need something like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-6-X-1-X-1-80-GRIT-SANDING-FLAP-WHEEL-DEBURRING-AND-BLENDING-/120978475321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2ae10939

or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DeWalt-Dafe1Q1810-Finishing-Flap-Wheel-2-1-2-x-1-180-Grit-/251115727996?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a77a9ec7c
Shank mounted needs die grinder rather th a drill though
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Automotive-LONG-SHAFT-Extended-Electric-DIE-GRINDER-NEW-/400317719672?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d34cba478&vxp=mtr
 
PJ how can I keep the sanding lines straight with those flap wheels?

My current setup is a plank of wood with sandpaper underneath. Then using a block to use as a runner and pushing the part along against that. Taking ages but the lines are super straight.
 
Clamp down the piece and slide flap wheel along a guide if you want dead straight although it's not too difficult to do 'off-hand'
If you use 120 or finer grit with brown polishing compound you can get a pretty good polish going
 
Looking to finish off the handlebars in a week or so. Anyone see any problems in my thinking of using:

R6 switches
R6 throttle (push pull)
R6 clutch (I know this will be ok and will match the R6 brake mc)

Just want to make sure the throttle will work with the carbs and I can wire the switches into the CB loom.

Also looking for plain black grips that will look good, clean and modern. Anyone got suggestions other than these:

http://bit.ly/NHrgR3
 
Fitting Yamaha switches isn't a problem, except for the kill switch, everything will wok the same as Honda
The kill switch is a 'grounding' switch so only makes contact when 'OFF', ('RUN' will be open contacts)
I don't know if it will have separate wires or ground through bars, either way, not really a problem
 
I don't think any of the new gen bikes ground switches through the bars, so you should be able to figure out the killswitch.
 
A lot have 'redundant ground', the ground lead may be bridged to housing internally
 
If it's grounded it wil blow fuse. If not grounded, run is off, off is run (makes it real difficult to steal ;) )
 
Hey Neevo, I fitted an R6 kill switch to my '77 XS360. I wired it into the circuit from the fuse box that supplies current to the ignition. It was the same wire (red/white) into the switch and out of the switch so when it is off the circuit is open killing the ignition and when it is on the circuit is complete and the engine runs. There was no grounding wire to the switch. Hope this helps?
 
kelvis said:
Hey Neevo, I fitted an R6 kill switch to my '77 XS360. I wired it into the circuit from the fuse box that supplies current to the ignition. It was the same wire (red/white) into the switch and out of the switch so when it is off the circuit is open killing the ignition and when it is on the circuit is complete and the engine runs. There was no grounding wire to the switch. Hope this helps?
Click to expand...

Brilliant idea :)
 
Boom! Got me a waist high bottle of argon. Time to melt metal together again. Mwa ha ha ha ha:

C35F3902-05EA-4D31-81EF-035A10087D7A-325-0000004934862204.jpg
 
Put the Argon to use this weekend, turns out my old brown hoodie is not a good welding top as I'm sitting in the bath with red biceps and I haven't been sunbathing! Nice clean t shirt sleeve mark too, oh well.

Big job for the weekend was to get the tank sealed up and ready for pressure testing. I tidied up the old MIG welds with the TIG and got to checking the tank for leaks. Strapped a cardboard plug to the fuel cap and pumped compressed air in and felt around for air leaks. Worked well and some were tiny, requiring my top lip to truly feel them, got them all and I'm now ready to get the tank tested by a nice chap I met a while ago who has a radiator shop. Tank piccies:

B55C0D76-8B26-4EB6-ACAC-BB3ACE70D94D-1697-00000156884C8E3C.jpg


Plug:

7CF44C8A-8E4E-4F6D-875C-37AABBF7E535-1697-000001568D376A74.jpg


Next up was removal of the old shock mounts on the swingarm. I needed to stretch the swingarm brace 1" too which isn't an issue as I'm just using it as a template for the tube benders:

17AB3E23-99F5-471E-B739-9DD72616351A-1697-0000015692121ACB.jpg


55660791-BABF-4429-9E90-5D32E0832C26-1697-0000015696819086.jpg


Got a few more jobs to do on the tank before its ready for filler/ paint. Need to attach the petcock and fuel lines and also decided to upgrade the fuel cap like this:

7807BA72-D57B-4AEF-A1D0-9CAA42CD2C62-1697-00000156A2CCBF74.jpg


5FEF7F02-FBD3-42E5-9F5C-8D52BB6E89E0-1697-00000156AB161165.jpg
 
Nice work, hope the sunburn does not last :-\ are you going to a mono shock or are you ataying with the twin shocks?
 
pandknz said:
Nice work, hope the sunburn does not last :-\ are you going to a mono shock or are you ataying with the twin shocks?
Click to expand...

Definitely monoshock, might struggle otherwise now I've chopped the mounts off ;)
 
Turns out my tank leaks like a colander :(

I'm turning my attention to welding it up visually and then putting a sealer in it to get it fuel tight, not my idea of done right but unfortunately my skills with the TIG aren't really up to it.

The fuel cap is going too for an R6 one to match the more modern look. I've also figured out how I'm going to get fuel lines out of it. Mounting two of these on the inside in the tunnel(1 higher for normal feed, 1 low for reserve:

456076FB-A67C-470C-BB95-7BF4638A7A8E-484-00000067244B9704.jpg


And I've been to my local hydraulics supply place and bought these collars which will be welded into the tank to accept the fixings above:

2B9A768A-8356-4371-A1BC-4684F4FA90CA-484-000000673DA53AD0.jpg
 
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