Bought a CT90!

plagrone

plagrone

Coast to Coast
The reasons for this purchase were many.
My girlfriend is lazy and doesn't want to ride a bike to class. I'm lazy and don't want to drive her. I love Honda motorcycles and working on them. My laziness, her laziness, and my passion have collided at an intersection and this ct90 is the resulting accident.

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Now I don't have to drive the girlfriend to class, and I can work on a bike without the lady feeling like I'm cheating on her with a machine.


My "bed" room:

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There was a TON of dirt on this thing, and a fair amount of rust, but it is cleaning up beautifully.
Wheels are true, tank is clean, I got to hear it run for a few seconds before I bought it...
Parts are so cheap it makes me want to get one for myself.


I don't know what kind of paint and chrome they used on these things, but it must be thick. All the chrome is shining up to look like new, even the rusty rims, and in most areas that haven't been directly dinged, the paint looks like new.

Here's the engine after a little bit of cleanup.
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Got brake pads, battery, air box/filter, tires/tubes, brake lever, etc already shipping. Polished up the exhaust and heat shields yesterday. Not looking too shabby
 
By the way, this is a 1969 model with the automatic clutch 4 speed, dual range gearbox (hi for highway, lo for off-road)

I've been told that if you put it in low and point it up a hill, it will climb it.
 
I don't recall what year mine was I had as a kid (no pictures either :( ), but I can remember how good it was going through and over everything. It took a lot of abuse.
 
I'm having trouble removing the brake cables for servicing. I'm sure someone can help me out.

It might just be binding... I've sprayed lots of wd40 down the line and I'll see if that freed it up when I get home

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I guess what you are implying is that nut won't spin off? If it is stuck or just on it too far, just pull the brake arm off and go from there. Looks like the front drum on my CT70.
 
I managed to get it. The nut on the end was free spinning, but the cable was binding badly and I couldn't compress it enough to get it past the collar for removal. An overnight soak with wd40 did the trick. I still might have to replace the cable.... Which is unfortunate, because these k1 front brake cables are hard to come by. The only NOS ones I found on eBay were $75 and $130
 
Got everything in to get it running! I'll report back with an update in about an hour. Hopefully it runs without starter fluid
 
She runs! Float bowl overflow has a pretty constant flow. What could that be indicative of?

I'll put tires on tomorrow and dealing up some exhaust leaks
 
While you're at it, shake the float to see if it is filling with petrol and sinking.

The bike is the sex.
 
Thanks guys, probably float needle not seating properly, then. I set float height and checked floats for integrity yesterday.
I'll check it out again today after work.

The PO had added what I believe to be a superfluous gasket, as the float bowl already has an o-ring... And also a bunch of unnecessary gunk to make it stick. Glad I split the carbs or I would surely be looking at clogged jets. Gotta love old brass floats
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This is where I'm leaving her today. Should get to scoot up and down the street a little tomorrow or the next day, depending on how tired I am after work
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That extra paper gasket would add about 1mm of height to the fuel.

Might've found your troubles, mate.

Btw, don't use toothpaste to clean the valve seat. Just an ordinary cotton swab will do in most cases. Blow through the fuel inlet nipple once done.

Best thing about this bike; simplicity. You can have the carb fully serviced and reinstalled in less than an hour.
 
Redliner said:
Btw, don't use toothpaste to clean the valve seat. Just an ordinary cotton swab will do in most cases. Blow through the fuel inlet nipple once done.

Best thing about this bike; simplicity. You can have the carb fully serviced and reinstalled in less than an hour.
Click to expand...

Hey, I've noticed that when I'm shopping for parts, head gaskets are copper... Is this the case with this bike? If so, I would like to take it apart and give it a through cleaning, if not, I don't want to invest in a gasket kit at this point
 
I don't believe I've ever seen a copper head gasket for Cubs. Maybe you're finding the head/exhaust surface gasket, as the exhaust header does use a copper crush gasket.

My understanding is that generally two-strokes use copper because they seal very well. Four-strokes use metal in fiber gaskets because four-strokes have to flow oil past that mating surface and the fiber seals oil-tight. Copper can certainly be used in four-strokes, but it's not the easiest route for general purposes since the copper can compress and close the valve-to-dome clearances. Not sure how accurate this is but that's how I make sense of it. ???

If you're not separating the top-end, just crack the head nuts one half-turn, then torque them back down in sequence. Then do your chain adjustment then valve adjustment, ignition timing, a/f mixture and idle setting.

These bikes define bullet-proof. Just keep it clean and it won't stop.
 
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