Hi From Australia CB350

I had a situation a while ago where I bought a new master cylinder and it turned out it was too small in diameter. The result of this was a brake lever that came all the way to the bars and hardly pulled up the bike at all.

You have a set volume inside the system and because the fluid doesn't compress, all fluid displacement results in equal displacement at the other end of the line. Therefore it can be assumed that a brake cylinder when working in unison with another brake cylinder within the same system whilst under pressure from a master would have half the volume of fluid causing displacement than if the other brake cylinder was removed. This means that your single brake cylinder has to move twice the distance for the same amount of lever travel (if you take one brake cylinder out), due to it needing to displace the same amount of fluid which is initially intended for two brake cylinders.

Hopefully that's not too long winded and makes a bit of sense.
 
Masked up the cases

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And the head cover

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Strung up in a tree and painted

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And cooked at 90 C for 60 min

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Finished!

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What benefit does cooking the paint offer? Other than offer the potential to get an arse whooping from the other half ;)
 
I understand you're point here Staffy and it's very well explained. Braking 'efficiency' (for want of a better term) is increased by removing one part of the system (i.e. one of the callipers) so that for a given stroke of the master cylinder the pistons of the single remaining calliper will move twice as much as they would have with the two calliper set-up. But overall braking 'power' has been halved by removing one disc/calliper. So has the 'efficiency' increase been more or less offset by the reduction in overall braking power?

The point is moot really as either way the amount of braking for this particular application is going to be excess to requirements!
 
What benefit does cooking the paint offer? Other than offer the potential to get an arse whooping from the other half

HAHAHA!!! The smell didn't go down tooooo bad...

I painted with VHT engine enamel from a spray can. The back of the can said to fully cure the paint it needs to be heat treated in the oven at 90 C for 60 min. so that's what I did. I imagine you could just start the motor and let the engine heat cure the paint but as you can see I'm a looong way from starting this engine!
 
You are right, there would need to be more frictional forces applied at the disc to get the same amount of stopping power with which to pull up the bike. However, the single piston is much more likely to grab and bite the disc it is operating on and is likely to do so with much less lever travel. You may find that a small grab of the lever results in the greater frictional forces applying to one disc only. I'm sure there's some maths in there somewhere which could work all these forces out, but my feeling is the front wheel wouldn't behave very happily under braking at all. There's an easy fix though which is to go for the single disc, but at the same time go to a master sylinder that's a couple of millimetres smaller in diameter to bring the system back into balance.
 
DrJ the sprocket was from ebay seller pawelzak. Just had a look now and it doesn't look like he's got anything up for sale at the moment. At $US49.99 it wasn't cheap!!

Also got the bronze swing arm bushes from the same seller
 
Mate that paint is lookin' real good!

I used POR 15 Black Velvet high temp paint on mine and the prep work has to be so spot on... I baked mine in our old BBQ rather than the oven so I didn't have the fumes in the house or an angry wife... haha

The reason for the baking is that if you don't get it up to temperature, the paint doesn't fully chemically bond with the metal, so moisture can get in over time and cause the paint to peel.

Normal heat cycles of the engine will cure it, but as you say if you're not gonna be riding for a while it needs baking... that's the same reason I did my crankcases and valve cover etc.
 
Got a bit done today. But came across a few problems too!

Cases are now back together never to be opened again for at least another 40 years hopefully. Just ignore the ham sandwich in the background.

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Mild temporary panic attack when I couldn't find the bolt for this:

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But solved with this:

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Little problem with the two o rings for the oil filter cover:

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If the manual says it's 63.5mm...

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Why does the gasket kit I bought have 67.5 o rings?!?

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With respect to the oil filter, is this...

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really supposed to rub up against this when it's spinning at crank speed??

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Or have I missed something??

FYI

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That's better!

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WOW! Close up photo really makes the cover look bad...going to have to fix that.

All done, just have to clean up some of the gasket crap...

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and polish or paint the oil filter cover.

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That's all for now. Thanks for looking.

Any of you Australian punters know where I can buy some 63.5 o-rings??
 
Most places like gardner bearings (or someone else interstate I guess) carry most types and sizes of O rings.

I found this listing online that might be worth a shot too http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-91315-MGE-000.html
 
Not much done today but I did manage to pull apart the rear wheel. Getting the tyre off was no problem. Who needs tyre levers? Messrs Black and Decker are your friends

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Getting the bead wires was a bit of struggle but got there in the end

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Revealing this...

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Getting the spokes out with the help of the deputy engineer of the project (my 12 year old son) and WD40 was surprisingly easy

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Almost there

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Hooray!

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Thinking back over my 30 years of riding bikes on an almost daily basis, I don't think i've even ridden a bike with spoke wheels let alone worked on one. I've recently learned that spokes are like belly buttons...they come in two different types. Innies and outties. i.e. those with the little button part inside the hub and those with it outside. Here are the differences.

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My plan (if I can get all this crap back together) is as follows

Front wheel: Harley 40 spoke 19 x 2.5 inch steel rim. Swap the 19 inch rim out for 18 inch alloy rim. Keep it at 2.5width. Reuse the (brand new) chrome spokes/nipples.

Rear wheel: CB350 hub laced up to 18 x 3.5 inch alloy rim. See how the old spokes/nipples clean up and have them chromed them if they clean up well or get new ones if they don't.

So questions at this stage are:

Can I re-use the spokes from a 19 inch rim in an 18 inch rim? I assume they'll need to be cut shorter and the threads cut a little further. If the thread is cut further, will they need to be rechromed to prevent the newly cut thread from rusting?

Has anyone transplanted a 3.5 inch rear wheel to a stock cb350 frame? Are there any issues with the chain run fouling the frame rail? I am expecting to have to buy or make an offset countershaft sprocket and move the rear sprocket out slightly
 
My daughter's friend's father is a CNC machinist and engineer. He custom made an axle, spacers and shouldered axle nut to make my 848 forks fit a Harley hub. Just need to have them either chromed or nickel plated. Thanks mate!

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Deputy project engineer wire wheeled the rear wheel spokes and nipples

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Before and after...should be good to re-use after chroming

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I was somehow overcome by a rush of blood to the head and before I knew what I was doing, I'd completely pulled apart the starter motor, cleaned the unspeakable 40 years of grime built up inside, filled and sanded the outer casing and along with the oil filter cover had them hanging in my custom made spray booth with a coat of primer

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Then painted black

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I'm having a hell of a time getting the rear sprocket off the hub. I'm assuming once you knock back the tabs on the lock washer, undo the 4 nuts and remove the giant circlip, the sprocket *should* just lift off right? Well, it doesn't and it seems like the sprocket bolts are somehow completely seized into the rubber cush drive. They won't budge after soaking in degreaser and wd40 for 2 days, levering with 2 big mofo screw drivers and even a few blows with a big hammer.

Has anyone got any ideas how to get it off? Is it time for the angle grinder or am I missing something?
 
Still no luck getting the *$&#^ rear sprocket off the hub :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: I've poured corrosive degreaser into the hub to see if it will free up the cush drive bolts.

Got a few other things done in the meantime though

Starter motor all finished and mounted
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Started pulling the gauges apart and found this little mess behind the speedo. I'm no entomologist so no idea what bugs came out of this... :eek: :eek:
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I've decided to add a few gold highlights here and there. Not sure why, but paying some sort of homage to 'goldline' performance parts often used on Ducatis e.g. Marzocchi forks, Brembo callipers and master cylinders, Campagnolo wheels etc.
Carburettor top
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Stator cover
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Camshaft housing
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My cylinders arrived back from 0.25mm oversize re-bore
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Beautiful honing marks
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Brand new pistons ;D ;D
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Got the last few things done to get the 848 front end to fit.

Top nut to hold the steering head bearings tight. Needed to be custom machined to fit with a 24x1mm thread tapped into it. 24x1mm tap cost $140!! :eek: Original ducati piece on right, custom made piece on left
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Holes were drilled in the Harley hub so the Brembo discs would fit.
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Frontend complete! Custom made axle and axle nut, custom spacers of varying sizes and complexity x4, custom holes drilled in hub and threads tapped, custom steering head bearing tensioning nut with 24x1mm thread tapped. Aside from that it was completely straight forward and bolted straight on!! ::)
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Started work on the headlight bucket
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Started painting the barrels/head
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As soon as these parts are painted I'll start re-assembling the top end and will have to start thinking about what I'll do with the CL header pipes. Probably wrap in exhaust tape...

Meanwhile, received a parcel with lots of electrical goodies :) :)

Boretech electronic ignition
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Coils
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Regulator/rectifier
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Now just waiting for my frame to come back from having the rusted left lower rail replaced by a friend with a welder
 
Has anyone used this stuff to line their fibreglass tank? How hard is it to use? Any tips?

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