Regulator/Rectifiers for PM Single Phase Bikes (Honda CB350, CB360, CB450, etc)

Payment can be made to sales@sparckmoto.com

$20 if you want to wire it or $25 and I will wire it. Please add $10 if shipping outside the USA.

I'll need to know if you're running LI-ION or lead acid battery (if you want me to wire it). If you're not running a Honda, I'll need to know that, too.
 
Hey Mat,

So finally I got around to replacing the rectifier/ regulator combo on my cb450 K4 and realized there were three wires coming out of it. Should I just take it out or are these connections supposed to connect somewhere else.
 
Do you have a pic? The stock setup on a CB450 is a separate regulator and rectifier; two units. The regulator has three wires coming from it (most commonly they are green, black, and yellow, but this can differ by year). The rectifier will have four wires: Red, green, yellow, and pink.

When replacing the two stock units with the Sparck Moto combined unit, the yellow and green wires from the regulator are no longer needed and should be secured safely so they don't flop around or are given a chance to contact anything. If you're wiring your bike for LI-ION use, you won't need the black wire from the old regulator, either.

Next, the old rectifier can be removed and the new Sparck Moto unit plugged into it's place. This will leave just the black wire from your new R/R. If running with an LI-ION battery, this black wire should be connected to the positive terminal of the battery (you may add a fuse to this connection, if desired). If you're sticking with lead acid, this black wire should connect into place where the old regulator was removed (that spare black wire described in the previous paragraph).

Lemme know if I can help with anything else or clarify the instructions.
 
Sonreir said:
Do you have a pic? The stock setup on a CB450 is a separate regulator and rectifier; two units. The regulator has three wires coming from it (most commonly they are green, black, and yellow, but this can differ by year). The rectifier will have four wires: Red, green, yellow, and pink.

When replacing the two stock units with the Sparck Moto combined unit, the yellow and green wires from the regulator are no longer needed and should be secured safely so they don't flop around or are given a chance to contact anything. If you're wiring your bike for LI-ION use, you won't need the black wire from the old regulator, either.

Next, the old rectifier can be removed and the new Sparck Moto unit plugged into it's place. This will leave just the black wire from your new R/R. If running with an LI-ION battery, this black wire should be connected to the positive terminal of the battery (you may add a fuse to this connection, if desired). If you're sticking with lead acid, this black wire should connect into place where the old regulator was removed (that spare black wire described in the previous paragraph).

Lemme know if I can help with anything else or clarify the instructions.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mat,

That was perfect, this was probably obvious to 90% of your customers but I am bit of a moron when it comes to wires and connections. Since I am wiring for the Li Ion battery. I will just remove the regulator unit and replace both reg/rect with your unit.
 
I don't see it mentioned here and my bike is not handy so I thought I'd just ask. The Rectifier and Regulator are separate units on my bike if I recall correctly. I seem the remember the regulator plug looks like the one you picture, what is done with the leads for the other unit? Maybe a dumb question...
 
If you're running with a lithium ion battery (or derivative such as lithium iron phosphate) or gel battery then all three wires from the old regulator should be taped off and zip-tied out of the way do they don't flop around. If you're using flooded cell lead acid or AGM, only the green and yellow wires from the regulator are ignored. The black wire from the regulator will still be used and should plug directly into the new R/R unit.
 
I got my unit today, looks nice. Now as to installation, I am not following exactly what to do. I just plug it in to the rectifier clip and remove the TWO old components and ignore the three wires feeding the old regulator?
You said with AGM to still use the BLACK wire from the regulator but attached to what?
 
Do you have the R/R model with the spare black wire or does it join the red wire in the connector?
 
Skip all three wires on the old regulator, then. Tape 'em off and zip-tie them to keep them from flopping around.

Just plug the new unit into the rectifier plug and you're good to go.
 
I love the one I got from you! My friend has a 80 or 81 Kawasaki LTD 250 that may need a R/R can you do that?
Brad
 
Sonreir said:
Skip all three wires on the old regulator, then. Tape 'em off and zip-tie them to keep them from flopping around.

Just plug the new unit into the rectifier plug and you're good to go.
Click to expand...
Is there a way to test this R/R, or what is the best way to test it. I purchased one from you months ago and I think I may have fried it or it overheated. If it indeed is toast, do you have any more to order?
 
Sonreir said:
The wiring is slightly different for a lithium ion battery. By splicing the red and black wires together in the R/R, it lowers the voltage output of the unit, which is better for the LI-ION batteries.
Click to expand...
Hey bro. I've purchased a similar unit as the one you're selling here in vzla. Wiring and Electrics are the most challenging tasks for me. Fab and wrench are my area. I have some questions for you and I hope you could shed some light in the subject.

What's the black wire for? What's the difference between having it connected to the red one (positive of the Bat) or leaving it connected to...? If I were to leave them separated where should I connect the black wire/what use can it be given?

Thanks bud, hope you can help. Cheers bud!


Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
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