Am I the Pontius Pilate of this CX500?

Trying to finish off engine over weekend. I replaced the water impeller, reusing the old copper washer after annealing to restore malleable properties, and then the case with a new rubber seal...

111030-261217014728.jpeg


111030-261217014803.jpeg


Checked to make sure there was no binding by rotating the crankshaft. No problems.


Then the transistorized ignition pulse generator at the rear of the engine case.....

111030-261217021036.jpeg


....and set the timing. All good so far.

When I went to place new gasket, discovered that I had one or the CDI versions of the CX500.

111030-261217015415.jpeg


In Australia, it appears that honda introduced the Transistorized ignition version that was not available in the US, until the GL versions came on board. The pulser cover is different, and needs a different gasket. One's on it's way.
 
I was reading up a CX500 article that after reassembling rear cover, one should temporarily refit the gear change lever and test to make sure gears are changing. This can be done by working the output shaft back and forth whilst changing gears. I got it into first, then could not get it out of first.

Turned out, with help from members of the CX500 forum, that when inserting the back case and threading the gearshift spindle, DO NOT BACK OUT....or the selector gears may disengage.

I had to remove the water impeller, the pulse generator, the rear cover.

When I fitted the gear selector initially, it looked like this...

111030-261217020119.jpeg


But when I removed the case, it looked like this...

111030-261217020041.jpeg


Anyway, I replaced the gears correctly, carefully refitted the back case, tested the gears, and all was good with the world again.
 
The engine is resting for now. Time to move on with the modifications to the frame I need to do before sending to powder coating.

I prepared this fibreglass rear hugger that I bought from Cafe Racer Kits. I just needed locating then welding the support tabs onto the swing arm.

111030-261217021725.jpeg


111030-261217021751.jpeg


111030-261217021923.jpeg


111030-261217021953.jpeg


111030-261217022016.jpeg


Had I been a fabricator, I would have made one myself. Perhaps at the next build.....whatever that may be? Needles to say, I'm hooked and keen to learn more and expand my skills.
 
I still have to complete a few other additions and modifications so I can get frame painted.

Today it was key relocation.

With the new front end and upper triple clamp, I lost the location for the key drum. I don't want to clatter up the area so it's going under the seat. But most of all, 'cause it looks cool!

This is the extent of my fabrication skills to date.

111030-271217025925.jpeg


111030-271217030008.jpeg


111030-271217030037.jpeg


111030-271217030110.jpeg


Now I have to figure out how to hang the choke, which was previously hooked on the handle bar assembly. Any suggestions?

111030-151217032744.jpeg
 
I know there's still a lot to do, but at least it's starting to look like something after being a pile of parts for the best part of one year.

The rear sets are from Slipstream Cycle Works. They're perfect. Another indulgence but there was no way I was going to tackle conjuring up my own from universal sets generally available. I've been furiously reading forums and working with pencil on paper for the last 12 months trying to work on my own set.....this bike is a brain crusher.

The gearbox runs along long axis of bike, and the gear shift spindle comes out the back of the engine also running from front to back. Not like most bikes out there which come out the pointing to the side of the engine. It can be done, but it's a nightmare of linkages. I could have kept it stock.......but in for a penny......you know how it goes.

111030-271217030544.jpeg


111030-271217030844.jpeg


111030-271217030915.jpeg


Next stop..... Convert rear Comstar to spoked wheel with bolt on flanges (also CRK-UK) so hub can also be painted........then carburetor overhaul.
 
When I'm a bit tired and don't want to tackle the bigger things, I find polishing bits very therapeutic.

It's not too brain consuming so I can think of the bigger tasks ahead.

111030-281217182150.jpeg


I was going to paint these black like the rest of the engine, but they are such beautiful and intricate visible pieces that I thought...NO...show them off!

111030-281217182303.jpeg


For those not familiar with the CX500 V twin, they are brackets for a coolant pipe (see below)

111030-281217182943.jpeg


And I finally finished detailing the oil filter housing. I couldn't finish the black edges as well as I wanted to..............Actually, it wasn't that I couldn't......sometimes you have to know when to quit. From a reasonable distance, one can't tell.

111030-281217182338.jpeg
 
What does one do with a perfectly good rear Comstar? Chop it...of course.

Many will be familiar with a bolt on flange conversion to a spoked wheel.

In this case, I am freeing the rear hub from the wheel to ready for some bolt on flanges supplied by CRK.

I will then be lacing to a Sun gold anodized 3.5 x 18 rim with some chromed spokes.

This is the conversion process....I begin by removing everything from the wheel to make it ready.

111030-301217025020.jpeg


Removing the final drive flange

111030-301217025058.jpeg

111030-301217025131.jpeg


Drifting out bearing on drive side

111030-301217025202.jpeg


Bearing and spacer.

111030-301217025231.jpeg


Don't have the specialty tool to remove the bearing retainer on brake side. I concocted this bizarre contraption using 2 nuts and an expanding bearing puller. The aim was to lock the nuts against the inner surface of the retainer and then unscrew.

111030-301217025302.jpeg


IT DIDN'T WORK! :'(

But I did find something that did. Circlip pliers.

111030-301217025331.jpeg


The break side bearing can now be drifted out.

111030-301217025401.jpeg


Remove the tire, and the wheel is now ready for butche........I mean refurbishing.

111030-301217025432.jpeg
 
WARNING : THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS CONTAIN IMAGES THAT MAY UPSET SOME VIEWERS!

Cut the alloy spokes on both sides.

111030-301217025510.jpeg


Grind off heads of bolts, taking care not to grind into the hub.

111030-301217025542.jpeg


Drift the bolts out.

111030-301217025609.jpeg


And here's the hub freed from the wheel.

111030-301217025637.jpeg


These are CRK supplied flanges. They go into the pile for painting.

111030-301217025821.jpeg


For the front wheel, I used a Cognito CX to GSXR conversion hub, Sun rim and chromed spokes. Here a little video how to lace the wheel.

https://youtu.be/PyfhdzY6KIA
 
they may be simple to copy and that is what is happening

but i have seen some crack already from flexing from the spoke holes out

and i have seen a few loose

spoke wheels flex a lt and need constant checking

i wont use these on a build even if a customer buys them i wont install them just my opinion
 
From an engineer's point of view: Material selection will be important, the design itself is rather simple in CAD.
 
der_nanno said:
From an engineer's point of view: Material selection will be important, the design itself is rather simple in CAD.

I agree with you der_nanno - as long as you have an understanding of the material's properties and the stresses involved, why not? If you don't, you can either ask someone who knows, or buy from someone who does.

After all, this forum is partly about choppin'n'changing. If it's dangerous conditions that are at issue, I would say that more catastophies occur from riders smiling so much that their brains turn off, rather than mechanical catastrophic failures. But I don't know that for certain!
 
cxman said:
they may be simple to copy and that is what is happening

but i have seen some crack already from flexing from the spoke holes out

and i have seen a few loose

spoke wheels flex a lt and need constant checking

i wont use these on a build even if a customer buys them i wont install them just my opinion

Fair comment CXman, you obviously have a lot of experience with these bikes.

But when you say you won't use these, and that you've seen some crack, are you specifically referring to those supplied by CRK? The reason I'm asking is that if that is not the case, the comment may end up damaging someone's business, even if you qualify it with a "my opinion" at the end. This is not an attack on your comment, but I feel it requires clarification.

Please note I have no financial or other association with CRK - merely a satisfied customer.
 
here is the issue

no one has done a stress test on any of these discs they are not an "engineered solution"

that was arrived at by calculating the strength or field testing or non destructive testing required for any other wheel

they are sold as a accessory yet are what you stake your life on and you do the installation of

you bought them and are installing them and think they ar ea great thing

but have no idea about the flex and torsional twist a spoke suffers

and how important it is for the spoke holes to be champhered exactly how the spoke faces ect

last but no least i did not mean to imply that crk just copied someones spoke plates

but they copied the idea that motosynthesis brought out years ago

and they do crack
 
You are right of course CXman. I don't have any idea so I rely on the knowledge and experience of others. I won't be selling this bike, so I will be able to inspect and react for the life of the bike whilst I live. Thanks for you insights.
 
The Limey said:
Although chicks find the danger sexy, so there's a balance to be struck ;)

Spot on.
But this is going to be a single seater, so if you're referring to poultry sitting on my shoulder..................
 
Back
Top Bottom