This 1981 BMW R100 will live to ride another day!

c0dffdc0f5a58e367c89a371daad2cad.jpg

Checked the mail box this morning and found these ! Came in quite fast, thx for the advice guys. I got a machine shop right across the street so maybe I'll go in there just to see what he says.

When my friends ask how the bikes going I keep saying it's a process but I may as well do it right ! .... Looks like imma be replacing every dam thing on this bike. Makes me quite excited that it will feel like a new bike when I'm done with it.

I will keep an eye out on eBay I know I missed out on a set of exhaust valves recently.... More will come.

I didn't measure the valves but pretty sure I got 40mm exhaust valves and 44mm inlet valves.


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This may be a dumb question but who is randy long and how would I contact him?


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Fillionj said:
This may be a dumb question but who is randy long and how would I contact him?


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One of the very best BMW cylinder head machinists. He is one of THE go-to guys for airheads. Here is his contact info;

Randy Long
Long's Mechanical Services
R.D. 1, Box 685-K
74 Risbon Road
Honey Brook PA 19344
610-286-5870

Another of the very best is Tom Cutter, of Rubber Chicken Racing;

http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/
Rubber Chicken Racing Garage
1360 Colony Way
Yardley, PA 19067
215-321-7944 shop
215-206-9787 cell
215-321-7954 fax

There are none better than these 2 guys.
 
Awesome thx! Just called BMW and exhaust valves are $160 a pop and same with inlet valves... I mean it is BMW I should have expected this! I will certainly find cheaper though I hope !


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There's several BMW specialists in the UK who usually have reasonable prices. I'll check them out.

Even with postage [ much cheaper UK to US than vice -versa ] can't see it being the prices you've been quoted.

Without checking, I'd be surprised if they couldn't be bought for sub $100.
 
beachcomber said:
There's several BMW specialists in the UK who usually have reasonable prices. I'll check them out.

Even with postage [ much cheaper UK to US than vice -versa ] can't see it being the prices you've been quoted.

Without checking, I'd be surprised if they couldn't be bought for sub $100.
Click to expand...
I would really appreciate that!!


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What would u guys recommend to clean up the muck off the engine casting as well as out side cylinders and heads, bought some stuff from canadian that work like total crap


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you got it down that far don't you think you need to check the crank and rods ?
it does look like it had lots of time on it
 
Very good point, I may as well not cut any corners. I'll hafta read up on the topic for a while though, I don't wana be screwing anything up. Like I said I'm new to tho so thx for the tips


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Fillionj said:
Very good point, I may as well not cut any corners. I'll hafta read up on the topic for a while though, I don't wana be screwing anything up. Like I said I'm new to tho so thx for the tips


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Click to expand...

The beauty of Airheads is that they are from the stone age - nothing to shock you on strip down.

I'll check out ex. valve prices on Monday whe the peeps are back at work.
 
A quick check with some of my old time Airhead pals .................. New inlet valves from £15.00 - £20 Exhaust valves £33 - £40. All prices each and plus carriage.

I'll check specifically tomorrow when they open.

Let me know if there are any other parts you want a price check on. Where are you located ?

I'm quite happy to consolidate a parcel of parts here and send them off to you.
 
So I'm trying to figure out everything that I need and that I have,
So far I got
-new piston rings x 2 sets
-steering bearings
-valve springs x4
-inlet valves (on the way) x 2
-push rod seals x 4
-large cylinder o rings x 2
-small cylinder o rings x 4
-head gasket x 2
-other gasket for valve coverx2
- new oil filter

What I can think of that I need
-oil pan gasket
-timing cover gasket w/ two o rings for up top
-exhaust valves x2

Am I leaving anything out that is normally required to be replaced while rebuilding an engine ?



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valve guides MAY need replacing
rods really should be checked sized if needed and the wrist pin bush checked as well as the crank journals
 
Beauty, I got my Haynes and clymers manual at work, since it's getting slow I'll be Able to research this week!


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Maybe check on the cost of exhaust sealing rings as well as what else u mentioned above! Thx again


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So I got right to business this morning, just want to reinforce what I THINK I've grasped this morning.

When you say check the rods you are referring to making sure the connecting rods are straight like this ?
bd84cba197ed2465725b727977960328.jpg

And when u say sized that is if ther is significant wear on the rod bearing insert?

The wrist pin bushing inspection is basically to make sure the wrist pin does not have any play and is a relatively tight fit ?

Where I get a bit lost is the section on measuring journals, so once I've removed the crankshaft I can measure these areas (the journals)
c3c98fa98a4b53284acd8f022b3d937e.jpg

And cross reference them with the diameters on this table
259efc520601d90192ddf8333145b3d3.jpg


I should also inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for damage?

I will be able to check the valve guide by placing the valves in and checking for play as well as clearance height ?

Thanks for the patience guys!
A boring day at work means an exciting day learning about bikes !


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wrist pin must fit with very little clearance there must be a spec for it somewhere
crankshaft endpla could be checked with a dial indicator
big end rod clearance could be checked with plastigauge
valve guides can be measured with a hole gauge and using an indicator check with valve in guide

a hole gauge measurement is transfered to micrometer for reading

micsmhlge.jpg


valve guide clearance checked with an indicator

0900c152800496a1.gif


crankshaft endplay
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Wicked another reason to head to princess auto, I'll hafta pick up those Gauge's, thanks that clears up a lot ! Snowing today so I'll be moving the engine
downstairs so it's a little
Easier to work on.
I was just preaching to a friend that every job is easier with the right tools... Don't I feel dumb

Very strange that the Haynes manual barely touches on this topic, although with your tips the clymers is starting to make sense to me!

Is there a section where I could post these manuals up on so all forum members could have access to? Or are these manuals steady readily available online?





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