79kz650 generic brat motorcycle thing
- Thread starter Jboogie13
- Start date
Jboogie13
Active Member
steveinwa said:
I tried that too, but found that without a box brake, it was quite difficult. I also didnt try for too long and am sure that with some effort it could be done well. The rivets alone would be plenty strong, just use 1" spacing and i think you wont have a problem.
VonYinzer said:Fibreglass alone yes, start drilling holes and things change.
Sounds like you have a solid plan and know your shit though. Carry on
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
Not enough holes will be drilled to cause any sort of perforation, which is what i think you are getting at. Only 4 holes will be utilized for mounting; one at the front and back of each side ear, and two holes for the starter solenoid, and 2 holes for the R/R. all will be pretty spaced from eachother, so im not too worried, not to mention the washers that will spread out the clamping force. Everything else will be held on with velcro.
Jeez, sure is a lot of thinking going on for a dang battery box haha. :
I do appreciate the input, and am glad people are actually following my bumbling about. ;D
steveinwa
Been Around the Block
Ha, it's just a battery box but it's the re-engineering I think everyone is always interested in, solving problems, thats the fun of reading these boards, you never know when you learn something new like pinesol, never tried that to clean carbs, trying to find an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner at the local thrift stores, the one I had stopped after 10 mins.
Jboogie13
Active Member
So i took VonYinzers advice and beefed the tray up a little bit9 by adding 2 more layers) and it made quite the difference. It is much stronger now, even though you cant see it in the picture. I also made a stand in for the battery i will be using.
This is how she sits at the close of this weekend:
I had originally thought about cutting the front fender to be symmetrical, but its more practical to leave it how it is, I also don't hate how it looks.
Next week i should be able to start running wires ( for real this time.)
I will leave you with this question; what is the easiest way to finish the outside of the fiberglass tray? I was thinking something along the line of some high build primer and some black rattle can, would this be sufficient?
Thanks for looking!
This is how she sits at the close of this weekend:
I had originally thought about cutting the front fender to be symmetrical, but its more practical to leave it how it is, I also don't hate how it looks.
Next week i should be able to start running wires ( for real this time.)
I will leave you with this question; what is the easiest way to finish the outside of the fiberglass tray? I was thinking something along the line of some high build primer and some black rattle can, would this be sufficient?
Thanks for looking!
Jboogie13
Active Member
So i got most of the wiring done, to the point where it will crank and has spark.
Just for kicks i put fuel to the carbs, but all i got was a few hiccups and a fart before i realized fuel was leaking out of the union between carbs 2 and 3. I then checked the plugs and none of them were wet.
Does anybody have any advice for getting the union to seal up? It was fine before i cleaned everything. Is this small leak enough to keep fuel from getting drawn through the carbs, or am i just having pod pains?
Just for kicks i put fuel to the carbs, but all i got was a few hiccups and a fart before i realized fuel was leaking out of the union between carbs 2 and 3. I then checked the plugs and none of them were wet.
Does anybody have any advice for getting the union to seal up? It was fine before i cleaned everything. Is this small leak enough to keep fuel from getting drawn through the carbs, or am i just having pod pains?
are you talking about the little bit of hose between the individual carb bodies? you might be able to use some hose clamps or zip ties to get it to stop leaking, but the real way to fix it is to take the carbs apart and put a new piece of hose in there. unless it is a big leak i don't see it stopping the float bowl from filling with fuel, so presumably it should run regardless. did you rejet for pods? what filters are you running?
Jboogie13
Active Member
doc_rot said:
No i meant the tube that feeds fuel to the carbs, the tee fitting if you will. I ordered a new one off fleabay, only to have it stop leaking the next day.
I played with the timinf a little, fine tuned some float levels and it kicked right over. I do however get a little bit of what seems like a lean pop out of the 3 and 4 carbs. Hopefully i can fix this with the mixture screw, as the jetting is at 17.5/122.5 i will oil the uni pods i have as well to get a little more of a pressure drop in front of the carb.
Battery is on its way with some other small bits. Pretty soon i should be getting around to the seat/pan. Taking shape pretty quickly.
These bikes use the battery kinda like a capacitor, so it won't run/ will run poorly without one. Even a weak battery can cause the bike to run very poorly. Have you ever used a "color tune" super handy for dialing in carbs
Jboogie13
Active Member
doc_rot said:
Ive been using a spare car battery i have to run the bike, i just meant that i ordered the antigravity battery that will stay with the bike. Tested charging voltage at idle, and it was right at 13.8v and stayed there for the whole practical rev range. Super happy with the electrosport stator and gsx1300 r/r at this point.
Never heard of a color tune, will look into it, thanks!
Jboogie13
Active Member
So i got my Antigravity small case 8 cell battery today, and it works like a charm! I was blown away by how small it was (if i had a nickel....) even though i already knew the dimensions..
Bike still chuffs out the #3 carb no matter how i set the mixture screw, and i also checked for air leaks to no avail. The #3 header is also about 100 degrees cooler than the other 3 cylinders, but the bike dies when i remove the plug boot. For some reason i still suspect a tight valve, as i never checked them after cleaning all the lead out of the seats ( shame on me) so i will be checking the clearances tomorrow and ordering the required shims.
I will also be semi-finalizing the wiring and hopefully will be able to turn my attention to what I'm going to do for a seat on this thing. I also have a colortune in the mail, thanks for the tip doc!
Bike still chuffs out the #3 carb no matter how i set the mixture screw, and i also checked for air leaks to no avail. The #3 header is also about 100 degrees cooler than the other 3 cylinders, but the bike dies when i remove the plug boot. For some reason i still suspect a tight valve, as i never checked them after cleaning all the lead out of the seats ( shame on me) so i will be checking the clearances tomorrow and ordering the required shims.
I will also be semi-finalizing the wiring and hopefully will be able to turn my attention to what I'm going to do for a seat on this thing. I also have a colortune in the mail, thanks for the tip doc!
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
Have you ever done the shims on a kz650? They are under bucket which means the cams are going to have to get out of the way to change them. If you are not familiar, I can give you a couple tips so that you don't have to re-time the cams. No need to waste time if you already know how.
Jboogie13
Active Member
DohcBikes said:
I'm aware of what shim under bucket type shims are, but i do not know how to keep the timing of the engine, I just assumed i would have to re-time the engine when putting it back together which is'nt a big deal, but im all for time savers if it still gets done right.
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
After getting your accurate, double checked clearance numbers:
Once you have the cam chain tensioner removed on a kz650 it gives you just enough slack to roll the cam up and out of the journals,all the time keeping tension on the chain, towards the center of the engine leaving room to remove the buckets and shims without the cam ever having lost contact or time on the chain. When you're done with one side simply roll the cam back into position, bolt it back in, and roll the other cam up and repeat. Major time saver.
Shims are only available in .05mm increments so basically if you are under .15mm and over .10mm leave it alone. Over .15mm or under .10mm and you'll need to swap or replace shims.
Feel free to post up your findings I'll keep an eye out.
P.S. stay under 6lb/ft on the cam caps or pay the price
Once you have the cam chain tensioner removed on a kz650 it gives you just enough slack to roll the cam up and out of the journals,all the time keeping tension on the chain, towards the center of the engine leaving room to remove the buckets and shims without the cam ever having lost contact or time on the chain. When you're done with one side simply roll the cam back into position, bolt it back in, and roll the other cam up and repeat. Major time saver.
Shims are only available in .05mm increments so basically if you are under .15mm and over .10mm leave it alone. Over .15mm or under .10mm and you'll need to swap or replace shims.
Feel free to post up your findings I'll keep an eye out.
P.S. stay under 6lb/ft on the cam caps or pay the price
Jboogie13
Active Member
Well my suspicions were semi-confirmed. 3 of the intake valves have a negative clearance ( constant contact with bucket) and all other valves are quite tight. All my measurements are in inches, then converted to metric (in parenthesis) using the formula M=I /.03937 where M is the measurement in MM and I is the measurement in inches.
For the ones that were negative, would i be safe just ordering shims maybe 1mm smaller than the loose end of the tolerance?
For example for the #1 intake could i go with a 2.40mm? Should i go looser than that? or just go by the book and go with a 2.50mm?
I understand how the valve lashing process works, however, ive never physically done it.
EDIT: I ended up just buying a hotcams shim kit.
The numbers in parenthesis are the currently installed shims.
For the ones that were negative, would i be safe just ordering shims maybe 1mm smaller than the loose end of the tolerance?
For example for the #1 intake could i go with a 2.40mm? Should i go looser than that? or just go by the book and go with a 2.50mm?
I understand how the valve lashing process works, however, ive never physically done it.
EDIT: I ended up just buying a hotcams shim kit.
The numbers in parenthesis are the currently installed shims.
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
You have to know how thick your current shims are to determine the proper new shims. Obviously the ones that have contact may take a couple tries to get a shim that will let you measure.
good work buying a kit. You'll be fine. On my phone at the moment can't see shit but will offer some tips, free of charge, later today. They're worth every penny.
good work buying a kit. You'll be fine. On my phone at the moment can't see shit but will offer some tips, free of charge, later today. They're worth every penny.
