FRANKENHONDA II the 1982 DOHC CB 750F2 Build

Looks awesome! Looks like the exhaust could sit a few mil closer to the frame? And surely OMM can turn up some fork extenders?


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LightsOut said:

Looks awesome! Looks like the exhaust could sit a few mil closer to the frame? And surely OMM can turn up some fork extenders?


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Cheers ;D

When i measured the exhaust clearance I was holding the exhaust up pretty tight to the frame, trying to be as optimistic as I could about the clearance issue. the fork extenders may be the way to go. I think I will deal with this issue last.

I was just going off what it looked like in the picture, but your measurements sounds like it would be accurate. Not sure what the geometry (take, trail etc) is currently, but you could jack up the rear as well by extending the rear shocks or moving the mounts. Keep it up, home stretch now


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Had a little crack at the wiring and realised that I had labeled the Dyna ignition cables that run to the coils incorrectly.

After a refresher of the dyna and m unit manuals I was back on track. Once the wiring to the coils was complete I reinstalled the side stand. Now that the bike sits lower the bike is on too steep an angle, it’s looking like I’ll have to cut an re weld it slightly shorter (an adventure for next break)

The buttons for to replace the ones I destroyed in the purpose built moto switch gear arrived, so I reattached the wires and ran it back through the handle bars. It was a lot easier and done to a much better standard second time around.

I then connected the m button up to its respective buttons on the handle bars, then I ran the wiring through some flexible conduit I purchased previously in an attempt to neaten everything up.

I then put the tank on just to see what it would look like.

You’ll probably note the top triple is missing, it’s getting tweaked at OMM’s shed along with the top bearing cap and the CR special carb adapters with need to be longer to allow for the oil delivery line that feeds the head.

So the last photo is of the starter solenoid and it’s got me a bit baffled.

So you can see the two bolts, one for the battery, one to the starter motor which earths out through the frame. Then there are the two that activate the solenoid, then two that have continuity through them.

There are two power out puts for the starter from the m unit and I can’t work out what they go to on this solenoid. Historically I have not had a good track record with starter motors I cooked one in my Holden Torana when I first started to tinker with cars and I’m a little gun shy. I can work out what the fuse does, the two points that have continuity have it regardless of if the fuse is in or not.



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The two that are common to the Bat terminal get red (ignition switch Bat terminal) and red/white (reg/rec output) on the stock Honda setup. They are both protected by the 30 amp fuse.

Does the starter button, kill switch etc wire into the m-unit so it handles that “logic” or is it only acting as a fuse box for starting purposes?


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I can't help man, but wanted to stop by to say things are looking pretty fly for a white bike 8)

LightsOut said:

Does the starter button, kill switch etc wire into the m-unit so it handles that “logic” or is it only acting as a fuse box for starting purposes?


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So from what I understand the m unit handles that.

The m lock connects directly to the m unit and will switch the accessories power on, the stater button will go through the m button to the m unit. The m unit then sends power to the starter solenoid (if I wire it correctly)

The m unit is basically left side for signal in puts and right side power out. It’s quiet simple for people who aren’t electrically challenged like myself.


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pidjones said:

The two that are common to the Bat terminal get red (ignition switch Bat terminal) and red/white (reg/rec output) on the stock Honda setup. They are both protected by the 30 amp fuse.

Click to expand...

On the m unit wiring diagram the starter solenoid is connected to these two power output wires, which is all different to the stock wiring diagram this is where it all goes left handed Braille for me.

I think even how the reg/rec hooks up is different. Luckily I have 6 weeks to ponder it over.


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Jimbonaut said:

I can't help man, but wanted to stop by to say things are looking pretty fly for a white bike 8)

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Cheers Jim would have loved to have gotten her running but there is still a ways to go yet.

At least it’s at a stage where I can put the tank and seat on, start up my other bike next to it and pretend that it’s running


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If you get stuck, lemme know. I've used the M-Unit on about 50 different bikes.

Sonreir said:

If you get stuck, lemme know. I've used the M-Unit on about 50 different bikes.

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Cheers Sonreir I’ll definitely be giving you a shout in 6 weeks time when I’m on break again. It will rain PMs lol




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cb250nproject said:

Cheers Jim would have loved to have gotten her running but there is still a ways to go yet.

At least it’s at a stage where I can put the tank and seat on, start up my other bike next to it and pretend that it’s running

Click to expand...

Nice, at least that way you don't have to make the brrrrrmmm brrrrrrrmmmmmmm noises yourself ;D

With assistance from Sonreir with the m-unit it sounds like you should be sorted Fingers crossed for a startup next time.


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Munit Bat terminal would replace the ignition switch Bat, and the other solenoid pin in question goes to the regulator output as shown. I'd use red and red/white wires to keep it like Honda. Maybe even run a yellow/white from Munit Start to the solenoid coil and green/red for solenoid coil ground. Mind, I've never used an Munit, but that is what their schematic indicates.

Got this photo from my wife looks like Jnr might have my wiring all sorted by the time I get back from work


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And have it better than Honda!

Perfect. And at eye level too.

Well the Ricks Motorsport lithium compatible reg / rec arrived, just have to wait 6 weeks to fit it.

Need to brainstorm what other parts are left so they are all waiting for me when I arrive, I have next Saturday off so that will be a day of planing.


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Well after coming back from work I’ve managed to get a few easy runs on the board

Old Man Murphy did a few last minute tweaks to the triple clamp, took the ID of bearing cap out to 31mm, he then recessed the hole on the underside of the triple in 4 mm deep and took the ID out to 31mm allowing it to go over the first few threads on the lower thread on the stem

Then it was up to me to give it a bit of a polish ended up coming up alright

I also connected the leads to the coils and filled the motor up with 4.5 L of oil, still no leaks which is promising.

I need to get my shit together with this wiring it’s definitely not the strong point of my game


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