Yeah plagrone youre right.
teazer said:With a double ended coils, both ends MUST be grounded either directly or through a plug to work. Best way is to use a simple spark plug tester which clips to a fin but putting both plugs on the head and kicking hard should work
Ryan Stecken said:Maybe someone can tell me why the last position is a ignition killer?maybe parking light?
jpmobius said:Looks like you are making progress!
Ill definitely do.jpmobius said:I think you will be well served to employ the method I detailed earlier. Once you have it running, you can fool around with it to see if alternatives help.
Ryan Stecken said:thanks to you and the other fellas!
i just checked my manual and saw that there´s a certain to synchronise the cylinders one by another with the slide holding screw and air screw.
1.)unplug left cylinder
2.)run the motor
3.)adjust the right cylinder (1 3/4 out with the air screw,slide holding screw till it bites then adjust till it holds rpm at 2000)
then same procedure for the other cylinder with the right cylinder unplugged.
the. run both together (they will run faster)-->readjust the slide screws till they keep a nice and even rev...
is that method not overly complicated?
i thought just setting both slide screws and air screws at a certain point and starting both cylinders will be enough.
adjusting the slides by feeling the vibtrations of the exhaust (like moeb said before).
is that a common method for 2 strokes?
jpmobius said:Your plan sounds pretty foolproof, though excessive. Better safe than sorry though. If you are starting on premix like start up ratio (20-1 as previously noted - depending on oil), you will be super rich on oil once the injector is completely on line. Possible spark plug fouling is the only real downside besides way too much smoke. If you can run a temporary start up tank of pre-mix, or even just make up a quart of fuel pre-mixed and run it until the injector lines are full and then fill the tank with straight gasoline you will be fine. Prefilling the lines can't hurt, but if you are starting on full strength pre mix it is not necessary. One thing about the injector lines at the carbs: If you have clear lines, you will often see a big air bubble next to the carb, but a full line going down to the pump. That is because the air whizzing past the inlet siphons out a bit of oil near the carb. Don't worry, it is normal. I run clear lines for this reason, because I like to be able to look down and see oil is flowing! I do suggest this though: Once you have the engine running on premix, pull off each injector line one at a time, pull the cable to the oil pump so it is wide open (the pump only, not the throttle) and observe the oil pumping out of the line. Do it for both lines so you absolutely know they are both working. It is totally possible for one to work perfectly and the other to not work at all. Both should appear to work identically. The engine will speed up with the line off, but don't worry about it. There is no load, and the short lean condition will harm nothing. Even wide open, the oil pulses out more as an ooze than a squirt. You will definitely be able to tell if it is working or not once the lines are full.
As for the "choke", it is "on" when the brass plunger on the right side of the left carb is pulled up. That means that the lever on the left side is pushed down. The lever is horizontal, or "up" when it is off. Technically, it is a fuel enricher, and just opens a big fuel jet to dump in some gas when engaged. The rubber tube that connects the two carbs feeds this to the right side carb, which does not have the "choke" at all. Might want to check that the fuel bowels are on the correct carb. The left bowel has a small drilling in the bottom to feed fuel to the enricher. swap bowels, and you will be super frustrated on the first start up. A real common oversight! Remember, this is for US models, and I am assuming yours is the same.