CL350 won't shift in to 2nd

I'm having shifting issues that I cannot solve. I have a '71 CL350 that simply will not shift into 2nd. I have done a number of things in an effort to rectify this, or locate the issue but have not been able to.

With the bike in neutral, the light works great, it starts up fine and runs great. Then, I can shift into 1st, but the shift is very stiff. From there, the bike will not shift up. It only slides back into neutral with a very mushy click. No matter how hard I pull up, the bike will not come out of neutral. I can lift my foot high enough to make the neutral light go out, but as soon as I release, the light comes back on. Regardless, the bike never actually moves out of neutral.

I have done the standard clutch adjustments to no avail. I have removed the left side cover and watched the action when I pull the clutch cable to ensure the cable mechanism works properly and it seems to. I've pulled the lifter rod, it looks to be in good shape as well. I have also removed the clutch plates to looks for sticking or wear. There we're tiny amounts of discoloration, but nothing major, and the plates did not seem to stick at all.

Anyone else got any ideas of things I can test? Any would be appreciated.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Have you changed the oil?

it has nothing to do with the clutch or oil,it is impossible for the clutch to keep you from shifting , as well as the oil
it will very likely be an issue in the mechanism behind the clutch ,the parts that rotate the shift drum

It was given an oil change, this happened before and after.

So you're thinking somewhere in here lies the issue?
http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cb350-super-sport-350-k2-general-export-shift-drum-shift-fork_bigma000170e16_e60d.gif

the star wheel and the mechanism that operates that which is in the lower part of the image
i have had bolt #19 come loose and cause sticky shifting
also an easy check is the detent ball on top of the case below the carbs
are you using rearset linkage ?

I'll have to take a look at bolt #19, and the detent bolt. Based on the image, bolt #19 looks like it's on the primary side behind the clutch outer, is that right?

I'm using standard linkage.

make sure the linkage isn't worn badly and or set up incorrectly,it should be set to very near 90 degree angles when static
you will need the special socket to remove the oil filter rotor in order to remove the clutch but yes behind the clutch

Thanks, sounds like a good starting point.

Are you actually riding the bike while trying to shift into second gear?
I know when the transmission is stationary, it causes hard or no shifting action

Both. Matter of fact it seems to get closer to shifting into second if I'm stationary. I'm I'm moving it feels like a brick wall, lift with no click.

You have to put the bike on center stand or disconnect chain to turn output shaft as you shift or the dogs can't engage, with the bike off.

Any time I've had this problem, the drum is moving laterally, as XB pointed out.

To check this for certain, all you need to do is remove the detent ball under the carbs on the top case. Then watch the drum as you try to shift. If it moves laterally and shifts into gear, stop and shift back into neutral.

Be careful not to force anything. You will bend something.

Thanks for the advice. Just so I understand this, I remove the detent ball and look through the void to view the drum while shifting. Shift into 1st, if the drum moved laterally (side to side), stop and shift back into neutral.

So what isn't noted, is then what? Haha. If the drum is moving laterally, what does that mean and is their a solution? And if it's not, I assume that means the hunt continues.

Thanks again

lateral movement in the drum should be very little
if not, the plate that holds it may be loose this is more of the parts you see when clutch is removed
the problem i had was that one screw and it caused the detent wheel plate to be very sticky

Great, thanks for the advice. I'll get to it soon.

[UPDATE] Re: CL350 won't shift in to 2nd

Problem located. You guys mentioned lateral movement in the drum. I wasn't able to see any by removing the detent, but when I removed the clutch basket, I noticed the drum would punch out of the crankcase a bit when I tried to shift. And, I coulds manually turn the drum from that position either.

While removing the oil pump to remove the clutch basket, I found this (Pic 1). If you can't tell, it's on of the fingers off of a gear shift fork. After pulling the motor and breaking into the tranny, that was confirmed (Pic 2).

The drum only has a touch of wear (Pic 3), I don't think it will be a problem.

Thanks for the input and help diagnosing guys, gonna try to put it back together in the next few days.

I hope you can find the correct fork. As well, are you certain each fork is in the correct groove?

I have a replacement sourced, it should be a simple swap. They were each still seated in a groove on the drum, so I assume they were in the correct grooves. Can they be in the wrong groove if they are on the drum in the correct order?

stu.belshe said:

I have a replacement sourced, it should be a simple swap. They were each still seated in a groove on the drum, so I assume they were in the correct grooves. Can they be in the wrong groove if they are on the drum in the correct order?

Click to expand...

nope

Just to be certain, refer to the manual. I believe on the 350 it has two of one length and one of another. Be sure they're in the right order and facing the right way.

I noticed that during teardown, their size and orientation is specific. I appreciate the advice.