1974 CB360 Engine Troubles (I think)

No pop unless it's pretty loose already. Most of the time you won't feel a thing because there is little-to-no slack to take out.
 
This may be a total noob question, but this about the valve adjustment procedure:

You start by finding compress stroke on the left side (stick finger in left spark plug hole and feel for air pushing put). Then you get it to LT and set proper gaps on the left side valve adjusters.
My question is, when going to do the right side valve adjusters, do I just rotate the engine 180° from where I just was, or do I find the compression stroke of the ride side (sticking finger in right spark plug hole and feeling for air pushing out) and then get it to the T mark?
 
rsjudka said:
This may be a total noob question, but this about the valve adjustment procedure:

You start by finding compress stroke on the left side (stick finger in left spark plug hole and feel for air pushing put). Then you get it to LT and set proper gaps on the left side valve adjusters.
My question is, when going to do the right side valve adjusters, do I just rotate the engine 180° from where I just was, or do I find the compression stroke of the ride side (sticking finger in right spark plug hole and feeling for air pushing out) and then get it to the T mark?


It's MUCH much better to watch or feel intake valve go down then as it comes back up your getting to TDCC. If it isn't moving or moving down, your on wrong stroke (overlap)
 
Good news!

Did the valve adjustment while looking at the valves to get on proper stroke, and people have been saying my bike sounds a lot better now and isn't as loud as a tractor! It still sounds kind of weird to me tho so I plan on taking it to a bike shop and having them listen to it (hopefully they'll be kind enough to!)

I also sorted out the LED turning signal issue out, seems like PO reversed some of the wiring and switched + and -

I'm interested in replacing the headlight/bucket since it is cracked and the headlight isn't too bright, but was wondering what my options were. It seems like my forks were swapped from another bike (my headlight is attached to fork ears similar to the 1972 CB350F) so I'm not exactly sure what size to get. I measured 7" from fork ear to fork ear. Also, is upgrading to an LED headlight feasible?
 
LED headlight is a huge upgrade on these old bikes. Don't leave home without it.

We sell an H4 replacement bulb on our website for $45. It might not be plug-and-play on your bike. If I recall, you have a sealed beam style that has the lamp, reflector, and lens all in one? If so, you may want to replace the bucket anyway so you can get a hold of replacement bulbs easier.
 
Sonreir™ said:
We sell an H4 replacement bulb on our website for $45. It might not be plug-and-play on your bike. If I recall, you have a sealed beam style that has the lamp, reflector, and lens all in one? If so, you may want to replace the bucket anyway so you can get a hold of replacement bulbs easier.

So as long as I get a bucket with a replaceable bulb (ex. https://www.dimecitycycles.com/6-1-4-inch-gloss-black-h4-headlight-assembly.html) then your 20W H4 LED Headlight Bulb should fit in just fine?

Is it possible to go smaller with the headlight bucket? Can I step down from a 7" to a 6-1/4"?
 
rsjudka said:
So as long as I get a bucket with a replaceable bulb (ex. https://www.dimecitycycles.com/6-1-4-inch-gloss-black-h4-headlight-assembly.html) then your 20W H4 LED Headlight Bulb should fit in just fine?

Is it possible to go smaller with the headlight bucket? Can I step down from a 7" to a 6-1/4"?

GREAT NEWS about the valve noise. :)

That bucket "probably" wont fit an LED bulb along w all the wiring connections stuffed inside.

I have this one and there is plenty of room for everything. Including the awesome sparckmoto LED. It also has a small 5w incandescent daytime running lamp built into the reflector.
https://www.dimecitycycles.com/7-inch-chrome-classic-british-style-headlight-assembly-with-bulb.html

Heres a silly little vid I put on FB last New Years eve. (FREAKIN FROZE MY NUTS OFF THAT RIDE ;D ) you can sorta see the functionality of Matts LED in action.

https://www.facebook.com/eric.koester.56/videos/10207893877447180/
 
Sonreir™ said:
Probably. The LED bulbs take up a bit more room than the halogen because of the heat sink they need. They will fit most buckets, but there are exceptions.

If Matt says they may probably fit, safe to assume, he's probably right.
 
trek97 said:
Also, if they are too tight, the valves could be tagging the piston tops. But not sure how tight they would have to be for this to occur.


About +0/060" ;)

Sonreir™ said:
LED headlight is a huge upgrade on these old bikes. Don't leave home without it.

We sell an H4 replacement bulb on our website for $45. It might not be plug-and-play on your bike. If I recall, you have a sealed beam style that has the lamp, reflector, and lens all in one? If so, you may want to replace the bucket anyway so you can get a hold of replacement bulbs easier.

I just use a hole saw to make opening for H4 35/35 bulb
 
Sonreir™ said:
Probably. The LED bulbs take up a bit more room than the halogen because of the heat sink they need. They will fit most buckets, but there are exceptions.

In the picture on your website, it looks like the bulb plugs into a 2 prong connector? Does that mean this LED doesnt have a high beam?
 
rsjudka said:
In the picture on your website, it looks like the bulb plugs into a 2 prong connector? Does that mean this LED doesnt have a high beam?

It's a standard H4 connector. Just a funny angle on the pic.
 
So I've cleaned up all of the wiring on the bike (which I loved having a background in computers and gadgets) but I ended up blowing a few fuses and now my blinkers don't blink. I'm assuming I fried the relay and need to purchase a new one?

Also waiting for the new headlight bucket to come in, excited to get the LED bulb on there
 
Okay well maybe not everything turned out perfectly. I just replaced the rear taillight (dual filament 1157) with an led 1157.

When I turn the key on accessory, the bulb lights up (acting as the parking light)

When I have the running light switch turned on, the bulb lights up. But once I pull either brake, the bulb goes out.

Everything worked as it should with the old filament bulb. I even tried reversing the POS/NEG cables but that didn't do anything.

Any ideas on what could be causing the brakes to cut power off to the lightbulb? I'm out of ideas about what to check
 
Are the pins on the bulb offset? They're not directly across from one another, right? One should be higher than the other.
 
Sonreir™ said:
Are the pins on the bulb offset? They're not directly across from one another, right? One should be higher than the other.
Yeah one is higher than the other.

Also, if my turning signals light up but don't blink, does that mean I need a new flasher relay?
 
rsjudka said:
Also, if my turning signals light up but don't blink, does that mean I need a new flasher relay?

Usually, yeah.

Might be a good idea to check the wiring on the tail light. Be sure all the wires are hooked up to the correct color. Then check to make sure you're getting 12V on the green/yellow wire when you're pressing the brake.
 
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