Another T500

I bet you could sell the airbox to a restorer, would cover cost of your pods. Some people have boiled the rubbers of stock airboxes to restore their flexibility, that might work for you.
 
CrabsAndCylinders said:
I bet you could sell the airbox to a restorer, would cover cost of your pods. Some people have boiled the rubbers of stock airboxes to restore their flexibility, that might work for you.

I already had the pods on hand, i would much rather use the airbox though.
At midnight it was an easy alternative to get the first fire up out of it to get to bed in a better mood.

Still have to sort some of the wiring and route it properly, and install a battery.
 
Got her almost all reassembled and running
Right carb still pissing
Electrical gremlins everywhere
Charging system is unknown



https://youtu.be/gya12GnIYtI
 
Got her all zipped up,
Had to use the inferior quality white zip ties as i was out of the correct high strength zip ties.
Went for a rip through a freshly combined wheat field. She really comes alive at 3k but will pull easily even under that.

There is a strange noise though, like a dry rattling noise at idle and on deceleration, as soon as the throttle is opened it dies down.
https://youtu.be/J-V9AFeF82s

Need to go over the electrical connections, no headlight, brake light always on and only one blinker ever comes on but only solid.
This should be fun.
38548a168515a6887f011b329ff385cb.jpg

109a0dc16cc56d6d4c4c065b362871e5.jpg
 
Lots of things rattles on these, levers, kick start arm and loose baffles too. Does it seem to come from the engine or somewhere else?
 
Loving it mate. Enjoy the rest of the season on that beaut


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
The Jimbonaut said:
Loving it mate. Enjoy the rest of the season on that beaut


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

Thanks man, it’s a surprisingly docile bike tbh. I was expecting more of the 2t kick i get on the rattle-can, but she just putts along no matter what rpm, plenty of low down torque.

Anyone got a recommendation for Aluminum polish? I usually use autosol, just wondering what else people had good luck with. Going to try to get this spit-shined and moved to a new home so i can finally get on to my stupid 4 wheeled death trap of a fibrefab gt12
 
I like to use Mothers Aluminum Polish to finish up after Autosol (or once it's good and shiny, just mothers)...doesn't leave as much black residue behind and leaves a much brighter finish IMO. I had one of these machines about 15 years ago...it was an earlier model (1967), the thing was like riding a 125 when not in the power band and like a 750 when you hit 6500 rpm! You've done a great looking job, enjoy!
 
goldy said:
I like to use Mothers Aluminum Polish to finish up after Autosol (or once it's good and shiny, just mothers)...doesn't leave as much black residue behind and leaves a much brighter finish IMO. I had one of these machines about 15 years ago...it was an earlier model (1967), the thing was like riding a 125 when not in the power band and like a 750 when you hit 6500 rpm! You've done a great looking job, enjoy!

Thanks for that tip, i think i might have some mothers lying around actually. I hardly used it because the autosol works pretty quick in comparison, never though to use it at the end though.


der_nanno said:
Can't remember seeing one of these for sale in my neck of the woods...
When i bought this one, it was the first i had seen in 2 years within a 200km radius.
Other than completely trashed parts bikes.


I have to say I’m really reluctant to let it go so i set the asking price up at “i don’t want to sell but if someones dumb enough to pay this...” hahaha
 
So now that i’ve got the electrical bs sorted, i need to track down which oil line is leaking 2t oil onto the top of the cases.

It looks to be coming from the pump side of things. Does anyone have a good source for plastic washers and m6 banjo bolts?


16ecefa62079b9951406ab926d1fef31.jpg
 
Manage to track down the oil leak, the line feeding the pump had a crack where it meets the banjo.
b29babab4bdc16768c84e996361036e3.jpg

Thank goodness for spares!
Bike is running like a top.
Went to have it inspected, was told it needs a kill switch to pass despite not having had one from the factory. Thanks Quebec...

How would one wire a kill switch to the points ignition? Ground out both of the points i guess?
 
farmer92 said:
So now that i’ve got the electrical bs sorted, i need to track down which oil line is leaking 2t oil onto the top of the cases.

It looks to be coming from the pump side of things. Does anyone have a good source for plastic washers and m6 banjo bolts?


16ecefa62079b9951406ab926d1fef31.jpg

I ran stat-o-seals when I restored my gt250. a little pricey, but they work a treat. I ordered mine from mc master carr, but there may be a better/cheaper source for them up in canadia..


https://www.mcmaster.com/stat-o-seal-washers
 
Hurco550 said:
I ran stat-o-seals when I restored my gt250. a little pricey, but they work a treat. I ordered mine from mc master carr, but there may be a better/cheaper source for them up in canadia..


https://www.mcmaster.com/stat-o-seal-washers

Those look pretty nifty, i’ll have to check if anything is available up here, but not likely.
I just bought some nylon washers and they sealed up alright. Do you know somewhere that would sell the bolts and/or banjos?




Fitted up some fresh rubber on the front, nothing fancy.

ab3d8c8523c9b35e3c7b563643ba1b40.jpg


18ecc28a5dc05d9ef40c7cca4168572f.jpg
 
Since it isn't for brake fluid, seems the bolt would be easy to make by center and cross-drilling.
 
farmer92 said:
Do you know somewhere that would sell the bolts and/or banjos?

Mc Master Carr has those too:

https://www.mcmaster.com/banjo-bolts
 
farmer92 said:
How would one wire a kill switch to the points ignition? Ground out both of the points i guess?

That will work, but the preferred (and I think easier) method would be to place a switch in between the orange wire that feeds power to the ignition coils.

So cut the orange wire and put a switch in between the two cuts. You'll probably want to run some extra wire up to the handlebars or something similar.
 
Sonreir said:
That will work, but the preferred (and I think easier) method would be to place a switch in between the orange wire that feeds power to the ignition coils.

So cut the orange wire and put a switch in between the two cuts. You'll probably want to run some extra wire up to the handlebars or something similar.

Yeah I figured that would be the easiest but I wasn’t sure about having the current flow through the switch at all times
 
As long as the switch is rated for the current, it won't be a problem. It's how most manufacturers do it.

If you have two ignition coils, each at five Ohms, we're looking at 3A per coil, 6A total.

The other option is to use a really small switch and a relay, but that starts getting a bit more complicated.
 
Back
Top Bottom