advice on rattle 2k

Going to be clearing my project as soon as I get my custom decals (thanks sonreir) on. I have the spray max 2k high gloss. Just wanted to gather some experienced opinions on technique before clearing. SHould i do a tack light coat prior to laying it on like i did with the color. Or just use long slow passes with thick coats? Should I do a couple coats let dry 2 days and wetsand then do a few more thick coats to keep the top coats smooth, or should I just lay on a bunch of coats at one time and wet sand/ buff at the end. Just want to get the best possible result. Thanks for any insight

-axe

some will argue but I have done many many spraymax jobs and tried various different technics . I have found that the slower and thicker you can lay it without it running the best results are had. I have done several thinner coats with various times in between and always get more orange peel with several thinner coats. I have got "glass" gloss results this way and have the pix to prove it . The only exception is when painting with metallic paints. The mica in it makes it "heavier" so it is way more prone to runs . Best advice one nice thick even coat and walk away from it and let it dry. If your wanting to build up several coats then wait several hours like 6-8 between coats and wet sand with some high grit in between . Worked well for me . 20 bux a can you can afford to experiment a little. Just do yourself a favor and wear a mask!

Cleared it yesterday. Used a heavy covering technique. Let it cure. Wet sanded heavy covered again. It looks awesome. There is one good run in the paint though. I am hesitant to go to sanding this as it really looks pretty damn good right now. Question do you think I should do a 1500, 2000, to polishing compound with it or just let it be. I feel like if i start sanding I am really just after the finish I have right now. Also if not how to I get out this run.

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By <a target="_new" href="http://profile.imageshack.us/user/axeugene27">axeugene27</a> at 2012-07-24

Depending on how bad the run is will dictate how you can best get rid of it. For most runs I use a run block. You should be able to get one at your local automotive paint supplier. You will want to focus on the high spot only, you can use a small block of wood wrapped in sand paper but the wood needs to be perfectly straight. On a bad run, I'll use 800-1200-1500 then buff.

And, if you are going to buff it, you would be fine to use 1200-1500-2000. But if you aren't sure about using a buffer or sanding with a run block, and you are happy with what you have, then let it be and ride it.

Hope that helps.

yeah I sanded and buffed the tail section and actually liked the shine before i did all that better than after not to mention that i hit the edge too hard and went through which sucks butts. Oh well I am def leaving the tank alone and just gonna correct that minor run down the line.

Regarding the 2k, I've already blocked and sanded and clearcoated my tank and seat with a one part clear topcoat. Looks pretty good but I want the fuel resistance so I bought a can of 2k a couple of weeks ago to shoot the tank, seat and number plates for the baby tracker (they're all carbon fiber).
My question is, how hard should I hit the existng topcoat with sandpaper? I'm thinking of maybe just 600 grit, a ton of water and then dry and shoot but I'd thought I'd ask for some opinions first.
Oh, and the comment about wearing a mask, DO IT. The 2k uses an activator that will positively wreck your lungs if you breathe it - di-isocyanolate based if my spelling and memory are working at all this evening. Likes to crosslink with anything moist - and the bronchia in your lungs are a prime target. Don't use that cheap 1.99 HS, get a real respirator that's meant for the job. Could be the best $39.95 you ever spent.
Sounds odd, but another little trick you can do is spray water on the floor and around the shop before you paint, the rationale being is that the nasty little crosslinking SOB chemicals just want to hook up with some moisture...
And if you spray on a real dry day, it'll take longer for the clearcoat to cure...
Thanks,
Pat Cowan,
Vintage Motorcycle Fiberglass