81 CB650 Brat/Cafe Build
- Thread starter dmable44
- Start date
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
SO basically from all this banter, make sure your bike charges or the expensive Li battery will either shit the bed and stop charging or blow up and set your bike on fire. Other than that, they are nice light powerful batteries. they are just temperamental like some women.
K
Kamn
Guest
Mosfet R/R should keep the Li batteries in check
OK... so LI-ION (and their close cousin LiFePO4) batteries can be a finicky bunch.
If the voltage from the cells drops too low, the copper from the anode starts to dissolve. This occurs at around 8.5V and is usually irreparable. Your battery is dead. For good.
If the charging voltage gets too high, the metallic lithium starts plating onto the anode and greatly reduces the efficiency of the battery. If this happens enough time, the battery is no longer capable of delivering the needed amps. You'll start to notice a lot less oomph from the electric starter. The higher the voltage, the faster the damage occurs. 14.5V is the safe maximum for most 12V batteries.
Even if the voltage is kept in the correct window, the battery can still be damaged from vibration ("hoverboards" have made the news for this, recently, as have laptops in the past). If the cells short out, this increases heat within the battery. Unfortunately, LI-ION are prone to what's called "thermal runaway". If the heat increases too much, it creates an exothermic (heat generating) reaction within the electrolyte which causes the heat to increase even further. At about 300°C, the cathode starts to expel oxygen and the whole thing goes up in flames. Most commercial batteries have fail safes to stop this for happening, but if the failsafe is triggered, the battery is dead.
In short, make sure you buy a battery with a trusted reputation and one with internal electronics is an even better bet. They're spendy, but earthX are the only batteries we sell for a damn good reason.
If the voltage from the cells drops too low, the copper from the anode starts to dissolve. This occurs at around 8.5V and is usually irreparable. Your battery is dead. For good.
If the charging voltage gets too high, the metallic lithium starts plating onto the anode and greatly reduces the efficiency of the battery. If this happens enough time, the battery is no longer capable of delivering the needed amps. You'll start to notice a lot less oomph from the electric starter. The higher the voltage, the faster the damage occurs. 14.5V is the safe maximum for most 12V batteries.
Even if the voltage is kept in the correct window, the battery can still be damaged from vibration ("hoverboards" have made the news for this, recently, as have laptops in the past). If the cells short out, this increases heat within the battery. Unfortunately, LI-ION are prone to what's called "thermal runaway". If the heat increases too much, it creates an exothermic (heat generating) reaction within the electrolyte which causes the heat to increase even further. At about 300°C, the cathode starts to expel oxygen and the whole thing goes up in flames. Most commercial batteries have fail safes to stop this for happening, but if the failsafe is triggered, the battery is dead.
In short, make sure you buy a battery with a trusted reputation and one with internal electronics is an even better bet. They're spendy, but earthX are the only batteries we sell for a damn good reason.
dmable44
Been Around the Block
Sonreir said:
This is very interesting. Thanks for the information. I definitely want to go with a quality battery and electrical components.
Kamn said:
So when replacing the battery with a Lithium battery I should replace the RR at the same time?
Also, how are the Dime City Cycle shocks?
dmable44 said:
Not always but in your case, yes. Because your R/R is old.
dmable44
Been Around the Block
Well the last thing I want to do is buy an expensive battery and blow it up. I'll add that to the list.
I have a carb question, I've been told and have read that the 81' 650 carbs have pressed in main and can't be rejected, easily at least. I also read that a common swap for them would be VB44B/C's but I can't find a set. Does anyone know of other carbs that would work? Mine have a broken fitting between two of the carbs too so I figured I might as well get new ones I can rejett for an exhaust and pods.
I have a carb question, I've been told and have read that the 81' 650 carbs have pressed in main and can't be rejected, easily at least. I also read that a common swap for them would be VB44B/C's but I can't find a set. Does anyone know of other carbs that would work? Mine have a broken fitting between two of the carbs too so I figured I might as well get new ones I can rejett for an exhaust and pods.
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
See this guy here? It's chris livengood. You had him here and you asked him a completely weird question about where to get shocks. Get them wherever you want. Preferably from him. But for the most part, use your informational resources when they are available to you.Sav0r said:
I suppose emailing him wouldnt hurt.
dmable44
Been Around the Block
DohcBikes said:
DohcBikes said:
DohcBikes said:
I apologize, had a bad day and simply didn't put two and two together. I did email him from his website though. Thanks a lot for the help thus far, I really appreciate it. I know I may ask a lot of already asked questions or stupid questions so I truly appreciate the help!
