'83 KZ440D Cafe/Brat Build

VonYinzer said:
That rust at the "Y" isn't going to clean up. If ya can make a little room in the budget have them blasted and coated. Lasts damn near forever.
I know someone that will blast it for me . Mostly just wanted to try the electrolysis out of curiosity. Am I correct in thinking I would want to blast with either soda or plastic pellets for something like this? Where the left header connects into the y is pretty thin metal.

Is the powder coating worth the price over ceramic header paint? I know it won't be as hard as powder coating but it is supposed to be pretty hard as long as you cure it.

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They will work. They just aren't the best size for your application. Carbs that are too large are tougher to tune on the bottom end due too less velocity and will never deliver the same power as properly sized car, for the same reason. Velocity is important. 30mm vm's will deliver all the air that engine will ever need.
 
DohcBikes said:
They will work. They just aren't the best size for your application. Carbs that are too large are tougher to tune on the bottom end due too less velocity and will never deliver the same power as properly sized car, for the same reason. Velocity is important. 30mm vm's will deliver all the air that engine will ever need.
Thanks for the tip. Is there a way to help counteract that? Would velocity stacks help, or do they just pull air into the carbs faster but don't help once it gets into the carb?

I still have a few weeks before this becomes pertinent. I will keep an out in the mean time for some 30mm's and if the 32's don't work out I will know, ditch them, and splurge for a nice new set of VM30's.

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Electrolysis: From what I've seen of the process, you'd need a big enough water/soda bath to immerse the pipe into.

Heat paint: Most VHT paint will peel on exhausts, probably due to poor prep rather than poor quality product? I used BBQ paint on my exhaust....but it needs to be cured with high temps. OK if it the eninge's running but difficult to achieve otherwise. I used my 500w worklamp which got it dry, not sure if it's cured it correctly though? If you don't cure it it stays tacky. Much against popular recommendation I wrapped mine.

Coatings: I'm sure powdercoat or ceramic resists heat and flaking.
 
NoRiders said:
Electrolysis: From what I've seen of the process, you'd need a big enough water/soda bath to immerse the pipe into.

Heat paint: Most VHT paint will peel on exhausts, probably due to poor prep rather than poor quality product? I used BBQ paint on my exhaust....but it needs to be cured with high temps. OK if it the eninge's running but difficult to achieve otherwise. I used my 500w worklamp which got it dry, not sure if it's cured it correctly though? If you don't cure it it stays tacky. Much against popular recommendation I wrapped mine.

Coatings: I'm sure powdercoat or ceramic resists heat and flaking.
You are correct about the pipe needing to be immersed. But I have a big storage container, 30 or 40 gallons, that I am using to store my parts that is more than big enough. Especially once I cut the muffler off.

VHT makes a silica/ceramic header paint which is what I will be using. You cure it by doing cycles of running the engine. Just have to be careful not to mess it up while installing them before you get to cure it.

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VHT is an excellent product when used correctly. The directions are on the can. don't use a heat gun to cure it.

why are you cutting your muffler off
 
DohcBikes said:
VHT is an excellent product when used correctly. The directions are on the can. don't use a heat gun to cure it.

why are you cutting your muffler off

cause stock is lame!
 
trolltoll14 said:
Hahaha hadn't made that connection. But I will be picking up six pack this weekend so I can give it a shot just to see what it looks like. Probably won't keep it but I can't help but try it.

Got my 2-into-1 headers today. Some of (maybe all?) the 440Bs came stock with them so I found one for cheap on Ebay. Looks to be in pretty good shape but definitely will need to be cleaned up. Thinking about trying electrolysis to remove the surface rust. Anyone else done this? How did it turn out? Before that I have to cut off the stock muffler so I can use a shorty slip-on. After the headers, engine, and muffler will all get painted black with high temp paint.

Also looking into reg/recs right now. Since I am upgrading to a LiFePO4 battery I want to get a new one so I don't catch it on fire. I've heard good things about Rick's Motorsports but as always I appreciate any suggestions.

electrolysis works great, just use a big bin like a garbage can or a storage bin lined with rebar
 
DohcBikes said:
The proper statement is "stock sucks" :)

You know what sucks even more? Half assed mods that have negative effects on performance.

^^^ This. Too many exhausts chopped up that are just loud and don't help the bike.

However, Dohc, would keeping the stock "choked" up exhaust help with that low velocity problem you were talking about with his carbs being too big? Or is there just nothing that can help with that?
 
DohcBikes said:
The proper statement is "stock sucks" :)

You know what sucks even more? Half assed mods that have negative effects on performance.
Mostly just want a different look than the stock muffler. So I have to remove the old one so I can put on the new.

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MotorbikeBruno said:
^^^ This. Too many exhausts chopped up that are just loud and don't help the bike.

However, Dohc, would keeping the stock "choked" up exhaust help with that low velocity problem you were talking about with his carbs being too big? Or is there just nothing that can help with that?
I'm not cutting down the exhaust. I'm cutting it off of the header which is welded to so I can put on a new one.

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trolltoll14 said:
I'm not cutting down the exhaust. I'm cutting it off of the header which is welded to so I can put on a new one.
The guy that had the KZ750 Mikuni carbs mounted did something similar - he cut the header pipe inside the factory muffler (maybe peeling the outside muffler casing?), then carefully ground off the weld to give him more length (and a larger diameter?). Of course, he did it to both sides to have a 2-2 exhaust.
 
DohcBikes said:
The proper statement is "stock sucks" :)

You know what sucks even more? Half assed mods that have negative effects on performance.

I didn't know if that would cause a rant about stock vs. modified ;D
 
Not much work getting done this weekend. Mostly just ordering more parts, planning, and prepping for the next stage.

I have started my electrolysis experiment. Put about 15 gallons of water in a storage tote and added some Arm and Hammer washing soda. Negative end of the charger is attached to the header. Positive is hooked up to my old rotor which is acting as the sacrificial anode. Started with he left header since it has less rust. It has been in for a few hours and is looking pretty good. Going to let it go over night and see how it does.
 

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I'm curious about your electrolysis experiment. What finish are you aiming for and have you chosen the washing soda on purpose, or could baking/blasting soda be used?

The reason I ask, is that I have been looking at plating kits and I have 10kg of blasting/baking soda, along with a battery charger....see where I'm going with this ;D
 
I'm just trying to get the rust off so I can paint them. But a little time a scotch bright pad would get them pretty close to new.

The washing soda is on purpose. Some people say either will work but some say it has to be washing soda so that is what I went with. I know chemically they are different but haven't looked into the process enough to know what role it is playing. One post I read even said if you don't have washing soda you can bake the baking soda which will release water and CO2 making it the same as washing soda. If you have baking soda I say go for it. Worst case scenario you have wasted some water and $1 worth of baking soda. You will want to use 1 tablespoon for every gallon of water you use. Let me know how it works out.



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trolltoll14 said:
Not much work getting done this weekend. Mostly just ordering more parts, planning, and prepping for the next stage.

I have started my electrolysis experiment. Put about 15 gallons of water in a storage tote and added some Arm and Hammer washing soda. Negative end of the charger is attached to the header. Positive is hooked up to my old rotor which is acting as the sacrificial anode. Started with he left header since it has less rust. It has been in for a few hours and is looking pretty good. Going to let it go over night and see how it does.

ahhh the suspense is killing me :eek:
 
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