3DogNate's 1969 Triumph Bonneville T120R Resoration

grandpaul said:
Got back an estimate from a vapor blaster:

$550 unit engine
$655 pre-unit

Yeah...

I sent pretty clean parts (just not funky) and it was a good bit less for a unit motor... Just don't make them burn time removing a ton of grime. ( I had a local job shop run them through the automatic parts washer a couple of times... for like $30 and got them back fully degreased.) And I didn't send in the covers... those got wet sanded and polished... no need to vapor blast if you are polishing really.

If shipping had been a little cheaper (I'll ship on my own dime next time) it would have really been reasonable.
 
If you're in the northwest USA you can rent time on the vapor blasting equipment and do it yourself for $15/hr until 2018 when the price drops to $9.99/hr.

http://www.vaporblasting.biz/index.html
 
Yo Nate, the engine looks nearly done! This thing is going to run better than new. Great work!

...and thank you very much for the shout out, it was a real pleasure to contribute a little twinkle to your build :)

Nils
 
Got together last night to get the transmission installed... It was going very nicely until we discovered that the pressed on bearing on the transmission Main shaft was able to slide right off. rather than worry about that gear clacking around and potentially eating the transmission casting we're going to raid Garry's stash for a shaft with a solid gear or at least a mate that fits securely. Was Missing a couple of screws for that Main shaft Cover plate on the primary. Otherwise the gearing and forks in the trans are in very good condition.

Oh, and Morrie's Place is supposed to have my paint work ready in a couple of weeks... So I might be able to pick that up shortly after vacation. We'll see how far I can get on this thing before cold weather hits. I have until mid-December to work in the garage before it just gets too damn cold without planning ahead and having the heater running.
 
Not a big deal... My buddy Garry has like a dozen of em... It's all good


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So... update day. Got the transmission installed and ready to roll. Got a little stumble. One of the screw holes for the clutch house plate is a little boogered up... I need a proper tap to chase the threads on that. I'll get the primary side completed this weekend or early next week.






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Got the primary side pretty well done last night and realized that the oil seal on the crank didn't make it in yet... :( so that had to come apart. More parts on order. Garry might have one on hand so might be able to get back on that Thursday and get the primary side of the motor done. Need to do a final polish on covers this weekend so that we can transfer the engine over to the frame soon. getting closer to the end in tiny steps..
 
We're neck and neck, I dropped my motor back in the frame last night. It'd be cool to see our bikes side by side when done. Yup, lots of tiny steps.
 
3DogNate said:
Got the primary side pretty well done last night and realized that the oil seal on the crank didn't make it in yet...

There is an age-old debate about whether the book shows the correct orientation of the main crank seal in the primary side.

MY OPINION, (and the way I've SUCCESSFULLY addressed it for over 25 years), is that the crankcase pressure has priority to be sealed off from the primary chaincase, so I face the lip IN.

The book has it wrong, IN MY OPINION. I seem to recall talk of a service bulletin to that effect, but can't pinpoint it.

BACKWARDS!
412824363.jpg
 
grandpaul said:
There is an age-old debate about whether the book shows the correct orientation of the main crank seat in the primary side.

MY OPINION, (and the way I've SUCCESSFULLY addressed it for over 25 years), is that the crankcase pressure has priority to be sealed off from the primary chaincase, so I face the lip IN.

The book has it wrong, IN MY OPINION. I seem to recall talk of a service bulletin to that effect, but can't pinpoint it.

BACKWARDS!
412824363.jpg
Excellent info... will consider it when it's time to install the seal


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Unless your fitting belt primary drive it may be better to get rid of seal and drill return hole into lower crankcase like the later models?
The extra volume also reduces crankcase pressure and oil leaks ;)
 
crazypj said:
Unless your fitting belt primary drive it may be better to get rid of seal and drill return hole into lower crankcase like the later models?
The extra volume also reduces crankcase pressure and oil leaks ;)

That might just be a smidgen crazy for me. Plus I'd have to split the cases to make sure I had no swarf inside. We'll play it straight on this one.


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crazypj said:
Unless your fitting belt primary drive it may be better to get rid of seal and drill return hole into lower crankcase like the later models? The extra volume also reduces crankcase pressure and oil leaks .
IN MY OPINION, one of the worst design errors ever.

I DO NOT want clutch and primary chain residue coursing through my engine oiling system!
 
grandpaul said:
IN MY OPINION, one of the worst design errors ever.

I DO NOT want clutch and primary chain residue coursing through my engine oiling system!

That's the stance I got from the guy helping with my motor...


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grandpaul said:
IN MY OPINION, one of the worst design errors ever.

I DO NOT want clutch and primary chain residue coursing through my engine oiling system!

I understand the emotion, but how do you think that every bike made in Japan since oh, about 19 canteen has one oil system for trans, motor and clutch. All modern bikes have their clutches in the same oil bath that feeds the big ends and it isn't an issue for them - BUT they typically have an oil filter.

And a filter is a worthwhile addition to any bike of that era.
 
teazer said:
I understand the emotion, but how do you think that every bike made in Japan since oh, about 19 canteen has one oil system for trans, motor and clutch. All modern bikes have their clutches in the same oil bath that feeds the big ends and it isn't an issue for them - BUT they typically have an oil filter. And a filter is a worthwhile addition to any bike of that era.
All Japanese bikes are direct gear drive primary, no chain. Britbike clutches have MASSIVE swept area on the plates, Japanese have more advanced WET clutches with a fraction of the friction material swept area in comparison, and the resultant fraction of clutch debris. And yes, they typically have cartridge filters built in, a HUGE difference.

Don't get me started on the "WET" clutches that British bikes DO NOT have (even though they are described as such). The oil in the primary CHAINCASE is for the CHAIN, not the clutch.
 
That's partly true, but the clutch plates are in oil some of the time and Japanese clutches are only partly submerged - not as if they are fully submerged.

More swept surface area means lower pressure per square inch and lower wear rates, so it sort of evens out. Chains are an issue but they don't seem to be a big problem on 750 Hondas or even on my old CB77. Agreed there's a lot of stuff in the filter and that we agree is the significant difference in design. What did Triumph/BSA fit in the base of the OIF frame? Was that just a screen or did they fit a real filter in there?
 
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