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Well looks like I will have to get that 35/35 bulb. No biggie. Here's some updated photos of the motor on the bike. I still have a lot to do and money to spend, but it's getting there. Hope to be on the road this spring. Next up is mounting for the GM coil pack, a new petcock with a filter in it, treat and coat the tank. At that point I hope to test fire this thing. We'll see. I'll try to post more updates soon.
Thanks. It's getting there. I have to start buckling down to get it done by spring. I still need to buy so much stuff. That's going to slow me down. I always seem to have time or money, but never both.
Did you wind up cutting your rear fender or is it still stock? It looks good, but I can't tell if it's because of the paint or if you cut it.
I know what you mean, I'm trying to save up for a new project but life keeps getting in the way.
Both fenders are still stock, just painted. I messed around with them on photoshop before going all in and ended up liking the full length version best. It kind of looked like a cross between the old and new Bonneville to me, so I went with it.
Update: I just ordered a bunch of stuff that's been coming in over the last few weeks. Got chain,rear sprocket, tires, mufflers, air filters, fuel line, breather and tail light. I'm making a push to get ths thing done by the spring.
I went and bought a gallon of evaporust from HF. That stuff is amazing! I poured it into my tank and let it sit for a day turning the tank over a few times. The inside of the tank looks like new now. If the tank is structurally sound, I would highly recommend it. I got a new petcock and filled it with gas- job done.
Some progress. I mounted my new coil. I went with a GM coil conversion that I've seen some other people on here do. Looks like it will work well. The mounting is very solid and I don't think it will interfere with anything. Not bad for 12 bucks. I also mounted a new tire on the back wheel. I wanted to get Shinko tires, but they don't make a tire in 120/90/16 (actually most companies don't), so I went with a Kenda. I called a local shop and they wanted $50 per wheel (off the bike) to mount and balance. So I went and got 2 tire irons for 5 bucks each and mounted it myself. I will get them balanced at another shop for 20 bucks. Going to do the front wheel today.
I was going to paint the wheels completely black because I like the way it looks, then I decided to try removing the paint on the inside edge of the rim. I think it looks better and i'm going to leave it that way for now.
Well it's been a while and I got some time this weekend to work on it. I ran some fuel to the carbs and of course they poured gas all over the floor. Looks like the floats are not floating. I'm also not getting any spark. I already ruled out the handlebar switch. That appears to be working. I need to rule out the CDI, stator and coil. I hope it's not the stator as it is the most expensive. The only thing that is not the factory configuration is the coil conversion that I did, but there's not much to it. Ah, now the fun begins . Good new is that all the other electrical items seem to be working (lights, horn, starter, etc..).
Well I've got spark now. The bad new is that I had to scrap the custom coil setup. I'm not sure how others got it working on their bikes. I'll dig into it a bit more and then maybe try it again at a later date. For now the original coil is back on the bike. I will probably need to buy a new one, because this one is looking very tired. I took the carbs apart and noticed that one of the floats was sticking. I tested the floats to make sure they actually floated and I checked bowls to make sure there were no cracks or leaks. Put them back on the bike. No more leaky carbs!
Looks like I'm getting ready to fire this thing up for the first time. I still have a bunch of other things that need to be done, but it's nice to know that I'm finally getting heading down the home stretch.
Started getting the exhaust ready for installation last night, but I want to get the chain on first. I picked up some DEI Titanium wrap from Summit for about $26. Should be enough to do both pipes.
Do you guys wrap the pipes on the bike or off?
I also put the sidestand back on, connected the rear brake assembly and re-installed the rear brake light switch. I'll post up some more pics after the exhaust is back on. Getting there...
Flash backs...to wrapping my pipes. By the time I was done my wrists/hands/fingers were very sore from maintaining tension on the wrap as I wrapped it. I wanted it nice and tight no slipping.
Here are some random thoughts.
First, I highly recommend wrapping the pipes off the bike, you need to maintain a considerable amount of tension on the wrap as you wrap around the pipe. I believe the quality will be better with the pipes off and be easier in the long run even considering removal of exhaust.
I bought 50' to do 2 pipes, thinking 25' would be plenty of wrap, each pipe needing (+-) 36" of wrap. so I cut the 50' into 2 pieces.
Well it took me 3 attempts with 25' of wrap to wrap the first pipe. Using the recommended "Overlap" I kept coming up short and had to unwrap and overlap less than recommended to get 25' of wrap to cover 36" of Pipe.
Wear rubber gloves (Irritating Fibers)
Instructions with mine said Soak 'em good first. I did and helps make them nice and tight cuz they shrink as they dry.
I watched some you tubes and one suggested start wrapping at the tail end of the pipe, this way the overlaps lay over each other and resist lifting potentially caused by air forces as you ride. Made sense to me, so that is the way I did it.
I used a 50 ft roll too and had a little extra, I didn't cut it in half though because I didn't want to come up short like Frankenfe said happened to him a few times. Pipes off the bike is the way to go. I soaked the wrap for about 20 mins or so. Only thing I can really add to the previous post is it helps to have someone hold the pipe steady as you wrap. Good luck!
I put the pipes on last night - just for fitting (had to re-tap one of the studs) and I realized like you said, it needs to be done off the bike. I got the Titanium wrap which according to DEI does not need to be soaked prior to installation and doesn't require the silicone spray. I will double check the installation instructions just to make sure. I'll get my son to help me with the actual wrapping.
What did you guys use to cut the wrap and did you have to melt the ends to keep if from fraying?
Good news is that I fired it up last night! She kicked over on the first try, but then died after a couple of seconds. It was late and everyone was asleep so my wife started giving me dirty looks when I came upstairs ;D . Open pipes in the basement = vibrating house. I'm going to try to get it running a bit longer then take the pipes off and wrap them. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!!
I got it running a bit better last night. I purchased cheap emgo pods and realized that they weren't oiled. I still had an old K&N Filtercharger kit from years ago so I oiled up both filters. I then used a trick someone else had posted on here about slicing up a beer can and putting a sleeve inside the filter. It stayed running longer and was a lot more steady at idle. It should get even better after I install the mufflers. I can make some adjustments at that point if it still isn't right. Next I'm going to install the chain. I need to clean all the factory grease off it first. It's a sticky goopy mess.
Do I need a chain tool to install a non-o-ring chain with a master clip if the length is correct? I don't think that anything needs to be press fit, but I've never done a chain this big before. Any one use PJ1 Blue on a non-o-ring chain?
First issue is removing the old chain. There are not "Master Links" in OEM Chains so you will need a chain breaker to remove or do like I do and get out the grinder and cut it off. If you decide to cut it off you may want to do it when you have your exhaust off to wrap as it will give you more room to get at the chain.
Installing is another some will say never use a removable clip type master. only pressed in type. All I will say is if you use a clip type be sure you install the clip considering the rotation of the chain, place the open/split end of cahin to bacof rotation.
Thanks Frank.
I don't have to remove the old chain as there isn't one. It got tossed a long time ago.
As for the master link vs press fit, I found that there are equal amount of people that argue for both sides. Personally, I don't think that DID, RK and Tsubaki would all make chains with master links if they weren't reasonably safe. I think a master link would be safer than a poorly done press fit (which could be a possibility being that it would be my first attempt). And yes, I have seen the many notices about the clip being installed in the right direction. That makes perfect sense.
I just don't want to waste the money on a chain breaker/press tool if it's not necessary. I don't mind buying tools for one time use, but zero use?
Rear brake is connected properly and adjusted. DID 530H chain is on and adjusted.
I wrapped the pipes and got them installed with new reverse cone shorty mufflers from Dime City. I used the DEI titanium wrap. The color of the wrap is really cool, it's like a bronze color. The wrap didn't need to be soaked or treated with silicone spray after installation. I didn't even need to wear gloves. The stuff is really nice to work with. The pipes are a bit loud, but they have a nice beefy thump that I was looking for. Ordered new cables and chain lube.
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. Good new is that all the other electrical items seem to be working (lights, horn, starter, etc..).
