CB360 project

thrillseeker

Been Around the Block
Been workin on this bike for a little while and keep getting deeper and deeper into it so I decided I might as well start a thread on it. I bought this bike about 6 months ago bone stock and in great condition. but knowing me, I can't keep my hands off my toys so I've been learning how to work on it bit by bit. It's my first motorcycle project so I'm not biting off more than I can chew at any given time.

How it looked when I bought it:
 

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The spokes were pretty rusty so I cleaned them up a bit with some sandpaper and paint.
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The front brakes were dragging so I rebuilt them. Holy corrosion, batman.
 

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Been having problems with the electric start and after some research came to the conclusion it's the starter clutch. Instead of paying the $11 for a flywheel puller, I found out the correct size and thread of the bolt and headed to the hardware store. Bought a $5 bolt, got home, cranked on it with my new impact driver I got for Christmas and poof. Rotor popped right off. The size of the bolt is 16mm x 1.5 if anyone needs to know. Also upon inspection, found a puncture in the starter clutch so I guess I need to sort out a new one. Any suggestions?
 

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I think that a CB350 starter clutch is the same thing - I'm in the same situation with my 360, starter motor spins, engine doesn't. You might have better luck finding 350 parts than 360 parts, but do double check that I'm not talking out my ass here.
 
Just scored a set of woodcraft clipons so over the past couple days I was able to put them on. After some thoughts of minimizing the handlebar controls, I came to the decision of keeping the stock controls so I had to make templates of the wire openings on the 360 bars and transfer that to the woodcraft bars. I was hesitant to cut them up but it turned out pretty nice considering I only have a drill and a deemed to work with. Now that the bars are on, I have an issue I overlooked. All my cables are now too long and I need to either shorten them or get new ones. I've never worked with custom cables so I'm looking for any recommendations on what I should do. I'm sure everyone else with lower bars runs into the same problem so there's gotta be a relatively straight-forward solution? Also, don't pay attention to the elephant-sized turn signals, they're on the list. Haven't decided if I want to replace them or just cut down the bars to bring em in tighter though. If I replace them, I want to make sure I pass inspection so the new ones will have to be bright. If anyone has any suggestions for decent turn signals I'm all ears.
 

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I'm removing the starter from my 360 and going kick-only. I hadn't planned to bother removing the clutch unit, but I could do so if you aren't able to come across another. The bike is currently at my friend's place, about 45 minutes away, but I'll get over there again soon... give me a holler if you can't get hands on one.

 
Thanks for the offer ridesolo. If I can't find a decent one I just may take you up on that offer. I wonder how much benefit you'd get removing that extra rotational weight from the crank?

I found one on eBay for an okay price but it looks like the springs are bent a little bit at the ends. Does this look okay or should I keep looking? I wonder if honda sells the springs separately? Although, I did read about someone who has used springs from a pen with good results. Maybe I'll consider that as an option as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-HONDA-CB360-CB-360-starter-clutch-assembly-/310546924918?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484e0a0576&vxp=mtr


Edit:
Just found this starter clutch repair kit as well. Looks like nice new equipment.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CB160-CB175-CB200-CMX250-Rebel-CB350F-Starter-Clutch-Repair-Kit-91101-253-020A-/380519820671?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5898bfad7f&vxp=mtr
 
thrillseeker said:
Thanks for the offer ridesolo. If I can't find a decent one I just may take you up on that offer. I wonder how much benefit you'd get removing that extra rotational weight from the crank?

Yeah, that's why I originally wasn't going to take the trouble to remove mine, I figured there wouldn't be that much gain for the effort.
 
Actually, i was leaning the other direction. Weight off any rotational mass gains you something like 4 times (dont quote my numbers) the benefit than weight taken from anywhere else. So, the 20 minutes it takes to remove the cover and pull the rotor may just be worth it. Im sure someone on here could chime in with any experience they have on the subject.
 
since my alternator cover and chain cover are off I decided to clean them up a bit. I started hand sanding the alternator cover but decided that was going to take way too much elbow greese to get right. I had to find a better solution. after looking around I discovered dremel has what they call finishing abrasive buffs. I got a couple sets of them and went to town. holy crap they work well! they easily got rid of any deep corrosion and light scratches made by the sand paper I had used previously. after using 180, 280, and 320 grit, I turned to my polishing wheel on my bench grinder to finish up. all I can say is wow. that was 10 times easier than trying to do it by hand! and it turned out really nice. I'll post up pics when I have time tonight. I forgot to take a before shot but I can take a picture of the other cover for reference.
 
Are the 350 and 360 condensers interchangeable?

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-parts-honda-cb350-cl350-cb450-cl450-condensor-20-1475.html
 
After measuring for new cables to work with the clipons, I came up with 3.25" shorter than stock for the throttle cables and 8" shorter for the clutch. Does that sound right? It seems like they would all be around the same amount of change but I'm not sure so I want to check with you guys. The clutch measurement is the one that scares me. But I measured everything twice and moved the bars left and right to accommodate for movement. Thoughts?
 
I got new coils, wires, and caps on from mikesxs.com (dont leave out the first "s" or you'll get a very different site lol).

They dont mount right up so I got a piece of angle aluminum and used the stock mounting brackets as a template to fab up a little bracket to make them fit. The only issue was figuring out which wires to connect to the stock wiring because they're different colors. A few minutes of looking at the wiring diagram helped. I was able to set the timing yesterday so I guess that means I wired them up correctly. The points were sparking though so I'm assuming that means the condenser isn't working correctly. That's why I asked about the cb350 condenser. The one I have was one I replaced the old one with a month ago but it came in a box of spare parts with the bike so I'm just assuming its bad as well.

Once I get my cables done I should be able to put fluids in and start her up.

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Bike is running strong now with new points, condenser, coils, wires, caps, and plugs. Lesson learned: inspect points closely. They were not obviously corroded on the outside but pitted in the center.
 
Working on the bike again since winter is here. Decided to rebuild the air filters since replacements cost $50 each from hondacb360.com and the cv carbs dont like pods. Was able to rebuild them for about $3 in parts. Here are some photos of the process i took.

Cut out the existing filter element:
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Pull apart the filter body:
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Scrape out the remaining gunk. A liberal heat gun is your best friend:
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Get the leftover gunk out. I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder:
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Use some silicone to put the plates, mesh, and boot back together:
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Clamp and let dry overnight:
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Cut some cotton padding in a strip to use as a filter element. I got this stuff from a local craft store. Think its used inside blankets or something. Also, no need to glue the ends down. The filter housing holds it down nice.
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Thats it. All done. Now when i need to replace my filter i can just cut another strip of the cotton material i got and swap it out. Easy. Also, no need to glue the filter element down. the housing holds the ends down nice and snug once its on.
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