1971 CL450 build. (not fancy, but complete...)

glad to help
many i have pointed this common issue out have said basically they dont care about that stuff ;D :eek:
best bet is remove the springs let the shocks settle then give an inch clearance from there
that is the way to do it right from square one
you could just remove one shock and ratchet strap the shock side down hard against the bump stop and then leave some clearance
you are goint to find that whole area needs to be redone
battery box is right sqaure in the way as well :'(
longer shocks are not really a good solution as you have already lowered the front with an 18 up there
 
with rear wheel travel issues on hold for the moment, we turned toward getting the cases together sometime soon. so we dove into the transmission tonight…



complete disassembly, cleaned, measured, new circlips, thrust washers (those that were available, anyway), seals and some assembly lube… and mainshaft and counter shaft back in place…

 
now, question for all you CB/CL gurus out these -should any of you deign to read this humble thread…

what the hell is this assembly?




when we took everything apart, these were the only parts on the bike. you can see by this parts fiche, that there are three more parts that go inside the countershaft:



i have an original CB500/450 manual… and nowhere in the entire text does it discuss this little system. doesn't even bother to show it in the diagram:



so i'm assuming previous owner, decades ago, removed the little parts, tightened the nut back down, crimped up the lock washer and forgot about it.

and apparently, I should do the same?

(or maybe ask this question is another, more specific area…)

any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
I think its the automatic chain oiler, only present on a model or two I believe.

sleazy said:
now, question for all you CB/CL gurus out these -should any of you deign to read this humble thread…

what the hell is this assembly?




when we took everything apart, these were the only parts on the bike. you can see by this parts fiche, that there are three more parts that go inside the countershaft:



i have an original CB500/450 manual… and nowhere in the entire text does it discuss this little system. doesn't even bother to show it in the diagram:
Click to expand...
 
…aaaaaaaand everything trial fitted for a quick glimpse at a ROLLING CHASSIS!




woo hoo!
 
i learned a long time ago… you never throw ANYTHING away until the build/conversion/modification is complete.

so, yeah- its here.

still chewing on some ideas, but its good to have a safety net.
 
stock location is best, up high on the seat is anti-racer :(
i know everybody does it,but it is the worst place possible to mount a heavy batt.
although many mount them to the swingarm which is proly worse yet ??? :-[ :-\
 
easter evening, house is quieting down… good time to sit down, put our heads together and concentrate on the crank…




rollers in the rod big ends were damn-near perfect, but the larger rollers on the stator side were a bit of a mess. sort thru and change out anything that looks pitted…



finally, a lineup we're happy with:



tranny- sorted. shift drum and forks- set. crank rollers- inspected and installed. all locator pins accounted for and installed. bearing keepers- check…



i don't think we missed anything, but we'll do a double check tomorrow before we torque and put the bottom pan on.


but for now, time for a cider to cap off a good weekend.
 
How good was the shift fork drum and the forks? Groves not overly worn or or have any low spots? Forks straight checked with a straight edge? No wear or scratching? Dogs on the sliding gears not terribly warm or damaged?

I'm only asking because one of the main flaws the 450s have are shifting problems. It can happen at anytime in its life, depending on how it was ridden. The noticeable thing while riding is, 2nd gear popping in and out, 5th gear may not go in at all. Some gears may stick or if damaged badly can break under pressure.

Bike I have had when I got it had 5th gear blown out of it, shattered to pieces, all the forks were bent, and the drum looked like it had been hit with file in a few places inside the groves. Needless to say I replaced the whole mess with a trans out of a 74 that had minimal wear. It had the 2nd gear issue but I think I have solved it.

If all is good then make sure you get the aligning pins and rings in correctly before you button things up, I've seen so many top cases trashed because of that.
 
If you like the seat/battery the way it is and you end up with the tire hitting the tray, you can probably find some different shocks with a longer compressed length to give a little more clearance.
 
frogman said:
How good was the shift fork drum and the forks? Groves not overly worn or or have any low spots? Forks straight checked with a straight edge? No wear or scratching? Dogs on the sliding gears not terribly warm or damaged?

I'm only asking because one of the main flaws the 450s have are shifting problems. It can happen at anytime in its life, depending on how it was ridden. The noticeable thing while riding is, 2nd gear popping in and out, 5th gear may not go in at all. Some gears may stick or if damaged badly can break under pressure.

Bike I have had when I got it had 5th gear blown out of it, shattered to pieces, all the forks were bent, and the drum looked like it had been hit with file in a few places inside the groves. Needless to say I replaced the whole mess with a trans out of a 74 that had minimal wear. It had the 2nd gear issue but I think I have solved it.

If all is good then make sure you get the aligning pins and rings in correctly before you button things up, I've seen so many top cases trashed because of that.
Click to expand...

I looked at it pretty close. Forks are straight, some wear- but nothing that sent alarm bells off. Shift drum looked brand new. Teeth are all excellent. dogs were louped and looked good... guide pins nice and polished with no pitting or wear.

but we'll maybe pull it out again tonight and do a more surgical/microscopic inspection before we seal 'er up. thanks for the "heads-up" about these boxes being delicate.
 
question for anyone following this thread-

also posting this in another area and on Honda Twins...

anyone know anywhere i can get the case bolts for this thing?

as mentioned in the above write-up, some of the original case bolts sheared off upon disassembly and frankly, i dont trust the ones that are left.

i called Z1 from which I got a very thorough head/side cover kit and they sent me to Carpy's. Carpy had nothing in the sizes needed.

what i'm looking for are the long bolts... like M6 x 90, 125 and M8 x 71 and 132mm

any help?
 
the bolts that seem the most difficult are the M8 x 132mm

even http://www.stainlesscycle.com/ falls short.
 
Buy the next size up and shorten them to right length? Using a Dremel the thread will remain practically intact and I usually have a nut on the bolt so I smoothen the burrs when taking the nut off after cutting.
 
strangely enough- the weirdest/hardest to find M8 are still available as a genuine part! go figure. so ordered them up from Ronnie's. everything else can be had (or shortened) from available sources.

thanks.

(hope this helps somebody in the same situation.)
 
Try Allen Fasteners in California, they will have them but pricey. :eek:
 
word of caution
not a good idea to use stainless steel bolts for the m8 bolts that are holding the case halfs together at the main bearings or anywhere really they are not nearly as strong as the steel ones oem
 
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