camshaft rotor removal 73 RD350

DTW350

New Member
Does anyone care to enlighten me on how to remove the rotor from an rd350 camshaft? I have the bolt securing to camshaft removed, however the rotor will not budge. Many have said it should just come off with ease but I have yet to see this occur. Do I need a puller?
 
Camshaft ??? It's a two stroke! But seriously, you can use a bolt to do it. One of the motor mount bolts does the trick if I recall. Thread it in while holding the crank still and it will pop off. Or buy a special tool but you don't need to.
 
Ha!!! I did say camshaft!! Sorry, working on an auto as well. :eek:. At any rate, thanks, I see the threading in the rotor now. I appreciate the response.
 
I think it's m10x1.5. If you hit it with and impact gun it will pop right off. Alternatively jam the primary with something and turn the bolt.
 
I second Mr. Shoeman. Engine mount bolt. Do not use anything but a bolt or you will damage the coil on that there camshaft. ;)

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Ok, this morning I was able to remove the rotor from the crankshaft, as well as remove right side cover. Little back story, I purchased this a few weeks ago and the PO said it hadnt run in about 8 yrs. Before I started disassembly ,it had had good compression, clutch felt ok but my intention is to rebuild the bike to my liking and modify the look and aesthetics of the bike to a brat style. Upon pulling the heads off I noticed one piston had been replaced and the crank appears to have quite a bit of surface rust but moves without problems. With all that said, is it worth a complete teardown to completely go through and reseal and rebuild from zero, or is this surface rust crank just a minor issue. Note: there was not alot of oil in the crankcase, maybe a pint at best. What would you do in this situation?
 

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Since you've come this far... Do a full bottom up rebuild. Replace ALL the seals and gaskets. A complete kit is under $100.

As far as the crank counterweights being rusty, as long as there isn't any severe pitting I'd just have them soda or vapor blasted. Afterwards, store them in oil so they don't rust again before installation.

You'll want to really inspect the cylinder walls and get an accurate bore measurement as well.
 
Right, I keep telling myself the same thing, Ive come this far...why not. Do you have a preferred source for a rebuild kit? Ive poked around a bit but nothing is sticking in my brain at the moment. Thanks.
 
VonYinzer said:
Since you've come this far... Do a full bottom up rebuild. Replace ALL the seals and gaskets. A complete kit is under $100.

This isn't really an option... A 2stroke that hasn't been run in 8 years will have bad crank seals.. if you dont replace them as soon as you start riding you'll seize up your motor. I dont remember which brand I went with but I just nabbed them off ebay. Tried to get something that was a brand though.
 
Check the side play and up and down on those connecting rods per the factory manual. I can send you a pdf of that manual if you need. Personally I would rebuild that crank. It is an area that once it is done you won't have to worry about it again unless you put an extreme amount of miles on it. At a minimum, if the rod play is in spec change the outer bearings on the crank and wire wheel the crank halves to get the rust and dirt off....second thought, just have it rebuilt. There is no telling how bad the big end bearings are rusted and by the looks of that pic they are probably in bad shape. Peace of mind goes a long way.

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A copy of that manual would be fantastic! I would greatly appreciate it, how can you get it my way? My buddy suggested checking the play, rods and bearings as well, if all is well, close her back up. Yes, I believe rebuilding would be best, my son and I are doing this project together. He is 13 and really getting in to motorcycles, once he realized how fascinating these engines are and work there is no looking back. Thanks for all the input.
 
At the very least, split the cases and clean it all out and fit all new seals. Fortunately RD stuff is everywhere. You can get a seal kit from ebay but a great source is Economy cycles in Illinois https://www.economycycle.com/ John the owner is a great guy and all he sells basically is Yamaha twin stuff.

You can also buy seals from your Yamaha dealer and they can probably supply gaskets as well.

My fear with that crank would be that it could be rust pitted inside the big ends. The "right" thing to do is to fit a new crank or send it to a crank guy and get it rebuilt. Chuck Supertune Quenzler or Lyn Garland are good. So is Bill Bune in MN.

One possible approach would be to wire wheel the crank wheels and flush the big end and bearings out with copious amounts of kerosene or WD40 and hope that it lasts you a season or two. That would be a gamble, but if budget is really tight, that may be one way to go. Either way, fit all new oil seals and make sure it's all clean before you seal the two case halves together.
 
teazer said:
At the very least, split the cases and clean it all out and fit all new seals. Fortunately RD stuff is everywhere. You can get a seal kit from ebay but a great source is Economy cycles in Illinois https://www.economycycle.com/ John the owner is a great guy and all he sells basically is Yamaha twin stuff.

You can also buy seals from your Yamaha dealer and they can probably supply gaskets as well.

My fear with that crank would be that it could be rust pitted inside the big ends. The "right" thing to do is to fit a new crank or send it to a crank guy and get it rebuilt. Chuck Supertune Quenzler or Lyn Garland are good. So is Bill Bune in MN.

One possible approach would be to wire wheel the crank wheels and flush the big end and bearings out with copious amounts of kerosene or WD40 and hope that it lasts you a season or two. That would be a gamble, but if budget is really tight, that may be one way to go. Either way, fit all new oil seals and make sure it's all clean before you seal the two case halves together.


Ok...

My reply was the cheap guy route.

As with anything else related to RD's LISTEN TO TEAZER!!! :)
 
They are all great responses and hey, I like the cheap guy route. Every bolt you looosen could be another potential can of worms. :-\ I just want to do it right the first time so I am not crackin the case again in another month, two months...yadda yadda.
 
Sent you the manual. Google forced me to send it through Google Drive or something. Let me know if you have any troubles with it.
You won't regret the peace of mind of doing it right the first time. It can be a very reliable ride if you do things right. I took a 500 mile ride on mine and everybody asked the same question "That old 2 stroke made the whole trip?". Hell yeah it did!
 
Ha! Thats great, I love these old 2-strokes. Thanks for the manual Clem! I will download and get at it. I know it will be $$$ and time but you are so right in saying right time the first time. I work for the postal service so I have few windows of time so sometimes its tough not take shortcuts, dont want to that here.
 
JSJamboree said:
Thats pretty much the only advice anyone needs to give you, other than teazer

Just be careful... Listening to Teazer will lead to lessons in advanced mathmatics, material engineering, piles of spares all over your house, an enduring need to build a proper race bike alongside your road bike, dreams of vintage GP races, and so on... Slippery slope my friend.
 
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