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First remove all tension off the cable.
The main adjuster is down on the transmission. Where the cable ends down on the left hand side of the transmission there is a small (about 40mm diameter) black plastic cover.
Pop the cover off.
Under that is a 14mmAF lock nut with slotted screw projecting through it.
Just crack the lock nut undone.
With a blade screw driver, turn the screw in until it just bottoms.
Back the screw off 1/6th of a turn.
Tighten the 14mmAF lock nut.
Replace the plastic cover
Use the cable adjuster at the lever to get about 5mm of slack movement at the end of the lever.
If it is not OK after that = clutch repair. :'(
Good luck
Tim
PS - bloody good Snapper season so not much bike work being done!!!!! ;D
I´m a little lost here with changing the oil on that thing and can´t find something in the manual either....
Here´s a little pic where I marked the different screws maybe someone can help me out.
I need to change all 3 oils (engine, middle gear and shaft).
How would you go about on the engine oil?
Are 2 and 4 the drain screws for the oil filter and sump?
what is number 1 for?
is it normal that on number 5 that there are no screws in there?
the engine leaks a bit of oil maybe this is the place where it loses the oil...
are the number 3 screws (hex inbus heads) the screws holding the sump to the engine?
#4 drains the engine oil
#2 is to remove the oil filter, remove after draining oil. It will be full of oil so you can make a mess!!!!
#1 was only on the pre 78 models and was to fill the oil filter after changing the filter.
#3 are the cap screws that attach the sump to lower case
The middle gear drain plug is down low at the back of the transmission. When you change the middle gear be very careful to fill with the exact amount of oil. If you overfill it, when it gets hot and expands it is known to blow out the seal
Cheers
Tim
#4 drains the engine oil
#2 is to remove the oil filter, remove after draining oil. It will be full of oil so you can make a mess!!!!
#1 was only on the pre 78 models and was to fill the oil filter after changing the filter.
#3 are the cap screws that attach the sump to lower case
The middle gear drain plug is down low at the back of the transmission. When you change the middle gear be very careful to fill with the exact amount of oil. If you overfill it, when it gets hot and expands it is known to blow out the seal
Cheers
Tim
Thanks tim for the great info!I will let you know how it went this weekend!
Another rhing i need to replace are the front wheel bearings.I already performed that on my KZ400 but the front wheel assembly looked a bit different.
This is how I would do it:
Use a long thin steel round bar and slide into the center "hole" were the axle sits, carefully "pry" into the "slot" between the bearing and the axle bushing and carefully drive out the wheel bearing on the right hand side (left hand side has the attached assembly for the tacho drive).Of course I would heat it up around the aluminium to get it out easier.
I´m just not sure if this is the right way to do it...but it seems logical since the left hand side assembly cannot be driven out.
the left bearing can be driven out as well, you need to remove the retainer ring and tach drive ring.
Here you can see the parts exploded http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xs750-1978-usa-canada_model8668/partslist/E-05.html#results
As per Kamn and!
Don't like to "pry" bearings out as the castings are always softer than the bearings, so the seats will get damaged. Heat always helps. Get everything ready, and then work quickly. If you have a gas torch or electric heat gun it will be easier. You need to heat the wheel hub - not the bearing, until you cannot hold your finger on it!!! Flip the wheel over,then using a bar that can go through the opposite side bearing, place it on the inner race and give it a good hit with the biggest hammer you have. Then the next hit on the opposite point, then at the quarter points, and keep working around the bearing! They usually come out with a couple of hits.
The other bearing will be similar but easier as access is better.
Put the wheel on a cooker / cooking plate and heat it up (gently). You'll hear a *boing* that's when the bearing has fallen out. New bearings should be cooled in the freezer and installed into the heated wheel-hub.
Put the wheel on a cooker / cooking plate and heat it up (gently). You'll hear a *boing* that's when the bearing has fallen out. New bearings should be cooled in the freezer and installed into the heated wheel-hub.
So I had a productive weekend! Changed nearly all oils on the XS, Shaft and middle gear oil and drained the motor oil.
Motor oil looked good, no chunks or metal pieces whatsoever,ran a magnet trough it, no steel pieces in there. 8)
I´m currently dropping the oil sump, which is quite a task, many screws, some are hard to reach but I will dig trough it ;-)
Also finally had time to change the wheel bearing on the front, the cooker method worked a treat!the bearing were frozen when I took them out of the freezer and sunk just right in!
So I guess after cleaning the oil sump I will refill the motor oil, fill up the oil filter case to the level where screw sits and then take a little spin and let you guys know the result (might take a while its freezing here in vienna).
Yesterday I finally had the time to get the back out on the street and make a testride,looks like the clutch is really on the piss.
When I pop in first gear and pull the clutch in, the bike still wants to go forward, impossible to move the bike back (which makes turning in a tight area impossible ;D ).
I tried different set ups, with the locknut and screw but I guess the screw needs to go in further in order to have more pressure on the clutch pushord, the litle steel ball is inside so it must be clutch adjustment or a broken clutch...
Where is the point of the adjustment screw where i need to stop screwing in and start screwing out?Is it actually the point where the screw gets " fine resistance" (similar the adjusting mixture screws on the carb).Maybe I was too careful....
Had some time again with the XS.
Couldnt solve the clutch problem,even with the adjustment screw screwed all the way in,the bike would still move slowly forward with the clutch pulled in.
It even made it worse when I went all the way in (i tried many different ways).
Had some time to mock up my front end,slow but sure progress.
I have a tank question: I would like to change my stock 750 tank to something more compact do you guys know any tank that could fit tunnelwise?
Cheers and thanks!
SR500 (available in 12 and 14 litres) should work, I can try it on mine and let you know. If you still get the clutch creep, it might in fact be the missing pushrod-ball.
SR500 (available in 12 and 14 litres) should work, I can try it on mine and let you know. If you still get the clutch creep, it might in fact be the missing pushrod-ball.
Thx nanno for your tip!so i guess i'll have a check on the clutch side of the motor.
Checked the parts fiche and there should be a steel ball behind the clutch plate.
The clutch doesnt fully engage even when I screw the adjustement all the way in...lets see!
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