I dont want to bore you to death w volumes of info...If you want more "details" I will be delighted to share that info.
For this write up it dont matter what pipes or filters or pods you got.
these are just couple important do's and dont's I have found so far.
I have been working w PJ to get him some good, real time o2 sensor air/fuel mix findings.
first off, let me say I have installed an o2 sensor on my 76 CB360 and found some interesting carb tuning information I would like to share w all.
This is the kit I got from amazon.
Its a breeze to install. I just have 2 ty-raps holding it on, so I can easily remove the thing. Once, Im finished, I dont plan to run this full time. I can just toss it on in the spring for a tune up, remove it and go. I use my battery tender junior plug to power it. so it simply unplugs.
I welded a bung on each pipe so I can swap it back and forth and check both carbs.
Tuning Air/Fuel mix at idle...
My bike idles fastest at 12.8 to 1 a/f mix ratio.
this gauge is sensitive enough that I can see the a/f mix fluctuate as fuel is consumed at idle. and the floats work to start and stop bowls filling. So, at idle I see fluctuation, a lean mix of 13 to 1. Then floats open and it richens to 12.3 to 1, back and forth as fuel is consumed and bowls refill. If I REALLY concentrate I can actually hear the rpm fluctuate as this cycle occurs. Idle drops a smidge, then picks up, back and forth. about 10 - 15 seconds for a full cycle.
First...
parking the bike properly for tuning.
The bike MUST be on center stand.
The bike MUST be at the same level it would sit as if it were on the ground w your ass on the seat.
example...with mine on center stand, the rear tire is a few inches off the ground. Bike leaning forward on the front tire. I put 2 inches of plywood under the front tire to get it sitting at the exact same stance as it does when I am sitting on a level piece of road at a stop sign w my ass on the seat.
If my bike is not "ride level" and I adj A/F mix to average 12.8 to 1...
Once I set bike on road and put my butt in the seat, the Mix can actually drop to 10.7 - 11.5 to 1. and the bike will run noticeably different, in a bad way.
If you try to adjust mix on side stand, then stand it upright and sit on it...forget about it. You are totally fucked from the start.
Next item...
Setting the idle speed.
Make sure to always keep idle speed at recommended speed. For my bike its 1200 rpm.
So, if I adj to 1200 rpm and then I adjust the right side for fastest idle. (Say it picks up to 1400 rpm)
then adjust the left for fastest idle. and it picks up a little more. Then turn idle back down to 1200rpm...both screws will be rich.
What I need to do is go through it twice. It only takes a few seconds to do.
start at 1200, adj right carb to fastest idle. then back to 1200, then left. back to 1200
then repeat, right, 1200, left, 1200. It will be pretty damned close enough.
And lastly MOST IMPORTANT
Do not make any carb adjustments on a cold engine.
what happens is. the cold engine causes the atomized fuel to condense. It will be lean. Thats the reason you have to richen her up w the choke to start cold. Once engine warms it will run richer. Atomized fuel, vaporizes and mixes better in the warm intake and cylinder.
so, the moral of the story so far.
If my bike is not sitting "ride level" it will richen up when it is "ride level".
if I adjust a/f mix and then set idle to 1200 it will richen up.
If I do all this cold....it will richen up.
If I do all of these things "Like I always have done them" I wonder why my bike runs rich?!?! :
Just for a fun experiment....Dont install the slide backwards. "holes on engine side" They will hammer themselves to death. In two miles ride, mine beat themselves so much. They both wedged inside. I didnt think I would get them out.
It dont look bad in pics. But I could catch my thumbnail on those deformed edges.
took me 15 minutes to pull, pry, yank and cuss the slides out. scored the walls pulling them out.
after filing the deformities out, and smoothing w emory paper.
For this write up it dont matter what pipes or filters or pods you got.
these are just couple important do's and dont's I have found so far.
I have been working w PJ to get him some good, real time o2 sensor air/fuel mix findings.
first off, let me say I have installed an o2 sensor on my 76 CB360 and found some interesting carb tuning information I would like to share w all.
This is the kit I got from amazon.
Its a breeze to install. I just have 2 ty-raps holding it on, so I can easily remove the thing. Once, Im finished, I dont plan to run this full time. I can just toss it on in the spring for a tune up, remove it and go. I use my battery tender junior plug to power it. so it simply unplugs.
I welded a bung on each pipe so I can swap it back and forth and check both carbs.
Tuning Air/Fuel mix at idle...
My bike idles fastest at 12.8 to 1 a/f mix ratio.
this gauge is sensitive enough that I can see the a/f mix fluctuate as fuel is consumed at idle. and the floats work to start and stop bowls filling. So, at idle I see fluctuation, a lean mix of 13 to 1. Then floats open and it richens to 12.3 to 1, back and forth as fuel is consumed and bowls refill. If I REALLY concentrate I can actually hear the rpm fluctuate as this cycle occurs. Idle drops a smidge, then picks up, back and forth. about 10 - 15 seconds for a full cycle.
First...
parking the bike properly for tuning.
The bike MUST be on center stand.
The bike MUST be at the same level it would sit as if it were on the ground w your ass on the seat.
example...with mine on center stand, the rear tire is a few inches off the ground. Bike leaning forward on the front tire. I put 2 inches of plywood under the front tire to get it sitting at the exact same stance as it does when I am sitting on a level piece of road at a stop sign w my ass on the seat.
If my bike is not "ride level" and I adj A/F mix to average 12.8 to 1...
Once I set bike on road and put my butt in the seat, the Mix can actually drop to 10.7 - 11.5 to 1. and the bike will run noticeably different, in a bad way.
If you try to adjust mix on side stand, then stand it upright and sit on it...forget about it. You are totally fucked from the start.
Next item...
Setting the idle speed.
Make sure to always keep idle speed at recommended speed. For my bike its 1200 rpm.
So, if I adj to 1200 rpm and then I adjust the right side for fastest idle. (Say it picks up to 1400 rpm)
then adjust the left for fastest idle. and it picks up a little more. Then turn idle back down to 1200rpm...both screws will be rich.
What I need to do is go through it twice. It only takes a few seconds to do.
start at 1200, adj right carb to fastest idle. then back to 1200, then left. back to 1200
then repeat, right, 1200, left, 1200. It will be pretty damned close enough.
And lastly MOST IMPORTANT
Do not make any carb adjustments on a cold engine.
what happens is. the cold engine causes the atomized fuel to condense. It will be lean. Thats the reason you have to richen her up w the choke to start cold. Once engine warms it will run richer. Atomized fuel, vaporizes and mixes better in the warm intake and cylinder.
so, the moral of the story so far.
If my bike is not sitting "ride level" it will richen up when it is "ride level".
if I adjust a/f mix and then set idle to 1200 it will richen up.
If I do all this cold....it will richen up.
If I do all of these things "Like I always have done them" I wonder why my bike runs rich?!?! :
Just for a fun experiment....Dont install the slide backwards. "holes on engine side" They will hammer themselves to death. In two miles ride, mine beat themselves so much. They both wedged inside. I didnt think I would get them out.
It dont look bad in pics. But I could catch my thumbnail on those deformed edges.
took me 15 minutes to pull, pry, yank and cuss the slides out. scored the walls pulling them out.
after filing the deformities out, and smoothing w emory paper.
