O2 sensor + CB360 = interesting tidbits for everyone.

Hahahah, isn't that how it always works?

Nice truck! I'm working on picking up an older S-10 myself, but had been holding out for an older Ford F100. I found an S-10 with front end damage for ~$500. Guy bought it, fixed it up, crashed it. Wah wawww. Here's hoping I can get it cheap and turn it into the new bike and wood chip hauler.

Now I'm really confused. Why are you advancing so far, or not setting the timing on the LF mark?

deviant said:

Now I'm really confused. Why are you advancing so far, or not setting the timing on the LF mark?

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When I started this on my bike...

When set on the LF mark, the advance only went as far as the min mark. Hopefully by taking the advance nearer the max mark I will squeeze a bit more top end out of her.

When fully advanced it sparks the plug sooner, (as the piston is on its way up.) ignition of the A/F is beginning to occur. the pre-ignited A/F mix is then compressed by the tdc piston, and reaches max expansion just after the piston begins its way back down. Thus giving her more time to burn the mix and push the piston down harder and faster.

(When advance occurs at the min advance mark the piston is already well on its way back down, when max expansion occurs. Thus wasting power. because max expansion is occurring later, when mix is not so compressed, and the A/F mix may not be fully burnt as the piston hits bottom and begins to rise again. WASTE.)

You need to be careful not to go too much beyond the max mark, otherwise max burn occurs too soon. And all this heat will torch a hole through the top of the piston.

When Im done it will idle on the LF mark AND reach full advance.

Worst cb650 ever said:

Hahahah, isn't that how it always works?

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I think That was the only time the Chevy ever left me stranded. So, Im not the biggest fan of electronic ignitions.

AND...I had the stock ignition module fail in my Dodge ram...in an intersection.

And yes...The Chevy was the coolest truck in the history of coolest trucks. She took compliments from EVERYONE. from 8 year old kids to 80 year old ladies.

It was stupid mistake to let her go. She had the Bullet proof 250 L6 w 3 on the tree. My buddy Greg and I put the rebuilt head and new lifters in her. New leafs, gas tank, etc etc...

Trek you do know you can bend the stops instead of grind them right?

frogman said:

Trek you do know you can bend the stops instead of grind them right?

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Bending them was my first idea...but PJ warned me against it. As I found out (using my good sharp rifle building files) This is some incredibly hard steel. and I was afraid of cracking them off.

I dont care for using electric tools for precise stuff like this, but I had no choice.

Power tools are simply a way to fuck things up faster.

Only reason why I mentioned it is because it has been discussed on other forums about ways to fix over advancing points units.

Since it is the advance weights in the first place slamming out smacking into the stops and forcing them out word causing things to slowly degrade. That means in order to fix the problem you have to gently bend the tabs back in. I see no reason to say that the opposite is also true.

Just my opinion here but I would much rather bend metal slightly than THIN the metal, sure it may be where you want it now but since it is thinner it will have less strength and have more tendency to move again then if just bent.

Granted is just a small amount but I'd rather leave a wear surface alone.

yep that is why I just took enough off the stops to get them even. (it didnt take much) Then started on the weights to gain full advance.

Personally I've never seen them bend outwards, even after 100,000 miles on the inline 4's.
I have seen them crack when deliberately bent out, welding doesn't work, brazing is temporary. I prefer to gring the bob-weights only, changing advance curve very slightly isn't a bad thing, it's only a few hundred rpm higher to max advance

I will let you guys know if and when a catastrophic failure occurs.

Disclaimer...I do not recommend you try this. This is what I did w my 360. Messing w the carbs is a quick way to Fuck up your bike up.


This mod has yet to be thoroughly tested.

Not gonna mention any names here, but...Whilst I sit and wait for more experimental parts to arrive from Florida...cough, hint...

My bike was running great w this carb set up...

PJs super improved Voodoo
new Keyster float needles
Old stock A/F needles and springs
19.5mm float height
old stock 35 pilots
old stock 68 primaries
new keihin 112 secondaires
old stock diaphragms with stock slides
new keyster stock needles and new seats.
new K&N filters

The only area that was questionable was cruising in 6th gear at 60mph, I think its about 4800rpm give or take.

I could see on the O2 sensor she was approx 11 to 1 A/F ratio.

And at 4k rpm in 3rd & 4th she would dip down to about 10.3 to 1 (no sputtering or popping) But, I know below 10 to 1 she will start to run poorly.

I wanted her closer to 12.8 to 1 without going over much.

So, here is what I did.

(First thing I tried was JB weld...it didnt work.)

The main primary emulsion tubes measure 1.15mm at the squirting end (pee hole) and 1.90mm throughout the body.

I thoroughly cleaned and clamped the 1.9mm in the vice, to hold and act as a stop.



I used a 1.0mm drill to shove some flux down the pee hole to the stop (1.9mm drill)

pulled the tube off the 1.9, cleaned the flux off the tip of the 1.9 and re-inserted.



I hit the tip w the propane torch for just a couple seconds to speed up the heating process...then used the soldering iron to keep it hot. and filled the tip w solder.



Then filed the excess solder off smooth.



Using the pin drill. I hand drilled the tip out to .82mm.





So far, this mod has worked out great for my bike.

Now, she is cruising approx 12 to 1 at 65mph in 6th, and dips to 10.9 to 1 at 4k in 3rd and 4th.

Just a note...I tried drilling to .76mm and it was kinda unstable. It cruised ok. but, at times it would hit 15 to 1 and it died on decel to a stop sign, once. Thats the reason I upped to the .82mm size.

I haven't yet gone for a longer test ride. Also, on one test run the idle went out of control...lean. Acceleration was still fine. So, I can only assume the pilot jet got clogged. After a thorough cleaning I haven't had that problem again.

In the future, I plan to try this set up w the modded slides and JBM diaphragms. But, due to the fact she is now running great, gonna ride it for a while first. ;D

Its a pretty rare thing when my bike actually runs good.

I dont know why. : ;D

Kewl... everything is still good on my bike, except it has started to run rough in 6th gear at full throttle.

Any report on the advancer mod?

deviant said:

Kewl... everything is still good on my bike, except it has started to run rough in 6th gear at full throttle.

Any report on the advancer mod?

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Check timing , valve and cam chain adjustment.
Use 5th gear more and rev it ;D

deviant said:

Kewl... everything is still good on my bike, except it has started to run rough in 6th gear at full throttle.

Any report on the advancer mod?

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I just, right now, got done setting timing...Friggin FROGGER will be pleased know he got me freaked out enough that I stopped just short of FULL advance, hits between 3/4 -7/8. Just so I have some room for warping stops. If I find they have bent I will let him know asap. No ride yet, but rain has stopped.

Running rough going flat out full blast, like that could be a myriad of things. What rpm are you hitting? AND just how fast is your speedo reading?
I REALLY REALLY doubt it, but you could be floating the valves.
bouncing the points.
getting lean...etc...

Like PJ said, find out what it does in 4th and 5th.

If I was doing it, First thing I would just try bigger secondary jets...see if that helps or makes it worse.

What size secondaries do you have installed right now?

As a last resort... install clean fresh plugs and hold it there for as long as you DARE, and do a chop.
If its going lean you WILL burn a valve doing chops like that though.

My bet would be its going lean.

Hey I have to play devils advocate when I can, mainly just to screw with people but when you do what I do for a living it makes me question everything thing and I find a weak spot or questionable situations I stop and rethink things.

Worst that will happen with a broken advancer is that it will just over advance and or spit those stops out and get them caught in something. Still sucks when you are a ways out from home.

When mine starts running rough she gets a tuneup.

If they do break off, the bob weights will hit inside of cover and be over advanced enough to hole a piston, way before valve burns out
If I remember right, 360 will do an indicated 60mph in 3rd at max rpm with 110/80x18 rear tyre and 17-34 sprockets

I can verify that PJ that's the gearing I'm running in mine, I'm usually over the speed limit coming out of a light buy my house buy the time I hit 4th. ;D

crazypj said:

If they do break off, the bob weights will hit inside of cover and be over advanced enough to hole a piston, way before valve burns out
If I remember right, 360 will do an indicated 60mph in 3rd at max rpm with 110/80x18 rear tyre and 17-34 sprockets

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Sorry I was referring to deviants issue about popping while running WOT in 6th gear. Not the stops breaking off.
Deviants issue sounds to me as if its most likley getting lean way up in the rpm range. And if he tries to do a proper 30-45 second long sustained high rpm chop in those high rpm conditions it could burn a valve.

Well, heres the jist. Maybe, I got a bit more performance but not really worth the effort (to the normal rider). She does run a little warmer. Reading temps on the headers closest to the collars she was averaging 585 F, after a longer ride 20miles or so, she is now at 610F. I dont know if this increase is completely due to the advanced timing, jetting or both.

If you do disassemble the advancer for cleaning or whatever, be sure to use grease on it. Oil definitely does not do the trick. Get her good and greasy, especially inside the lobe. She will operate smooth as silk.

This was a fun task for me, but I like working on my bike more than riding her. If you just want to ride...set timing and go!

You guys got me freaked out enough that, If I find temps get any higher over time...I will install my backup advancer and try again...with less advance than I have now. :