1980 XT500 BUILD

Ignore what the plug looks like. Reading plug color really only applies to WFO ie flat out under load. That doesn't tell you anything about idle mixture. Set idle mixture to give you the highest idle speed and the best response as you crack open the throttle. Anything else is a distraction at best and misleading at worst.

Fix the electrical system first and then set points gap and timing and after those are spot on, then think about tweaking the air screws.
 
Ok teazer, cheers mate, I will do that. Great advice.
I have a new regulator, but I have converted from 6v to 12v, so something is definitely wrong with the electrical system. The battery shouldn’t be draining so fast. And I feel that’s why it’s so hard to start.


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MCKAY34 said:
Ok teazer, cheers mate, I will do that. Great advice.
I have a new regulator, but I have converted from 6v to 12v, so something is definitely wrong with the electrical system. The battery shouldn’t be draining so fast. And I feel that’s why it’s so hard to start.


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How did you convert to 12v? Did you buy a kit or DIY?

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Yeah I bought a Rex’s speed shop 12v XT500 conversion kit.


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MCKAY34 said:
Yeah I bought a Rex’s speed shop 12v XT500 conversion kit.


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I'm looking at one of those for my DT. Maybe contact them and see if they have any solutions.

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Yeah, Marcus is very helpful. This should not affect starting though, you don't need a battery to start these bikes. I am actually running a capacitor instead of a battery on mine and she starts up just fine.
 
You don’t need a battery to start a XT500?? Are you sure that’s correct.
I have tried contacting them, no one every replies to me.


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pretty sure these bikes use the battery as a capacitor and wont run well or at all without one even if you kick-start
 
Yeah I think it needs the battery, because I could only start the bike when the battery was full, it wouldn’t start or even sound like it wanted when the battery was getting flat.


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Another side note, the bike would not idle with the choke off. It would die out.


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MCKAY34 said:
Another side note, the bike would not idle with the choke off. It would die out.


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Do we think that maybe my generator isn’t working?



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The ignition circuit and the lighting circuit are separate. If you are running lights you definitely want a cap or battery but the ignition doesn't rely on it to start. Don't forget the TT500, they didn't use a battery/cap at all.
 

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MCKAY34 said:
Do we think that maybe my generator isn’t working?



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It is possible. There is a troubleshooting guide for the 12v conversion kit on this page:

http://www.rexs-speedshop.com/epages/es143131.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es143131/Categories/Tech_Support
 
Awesome , that’s for the great info, I have just been reading through the Rexs paper work, and I have just realised I have a led tail light. I doubt that would be causing the problem. I think I need to test if the generator is working. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it.


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Does anyone have any tips to why the bike would be turning off when I turn the choke off?
Perhaps I need a bigger pilot jet? Considering I have a pod filter.


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Could be too small pilot jet, or mixture screw not adjusted quite right. Remind me again, what carb are you running? And what size pilot jet do you have now?
 
Also i would like to add, that yes the bike does start and run without the battery. i just kick started the bike without the battery attached, and all my lights etc were working without the battery attached.

So do you think that this tells me that the generator is working ok?
 
So I have an update, once the bike is started if I give it a little pull of the throttle is does back fire a bit. Also backfiring from the pod filter. I have checked the timing with the strobe light and f mark is not exactly on the line, the f mark is about 5mm before the line. So how can I adjust this?


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