KZ650-beginnings of a pseudo-restore/customization

Try prying it up with a large screwdriver or small pry bar. If that don't work you will need
to split it. Using and/or a grinder or cold chisel. Be careful not to touch the stem or yoke.

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Well, I tried what seemed like 100 different ways with my limited tools, but I finally had to cut the race. I didn't cut it all the way off, but I think the heat transfer loosened it enough to where I could tap it off with a hammer and an old screwdriver.

 
Worked on the forks a bit today. Finally was able to borrow a tool from a friend that he made as a copy of the Kawasaki fork tool. It fit perfectly!

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Great tool for pressing the races in, once again borrowed from a co-worker. Took less than a minute.

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Started breaking apart the rear wheel since my time with borrowed wheel bearing tools is limited. Looks like most everything is original, but I could be wrong. The chain is KMC, the shoes made in Japan, and the wheel bearings are ball style so I'm guessing those are at least circa '77.

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Another question- the fork damper requires a special tool to compress in order to re-install, according to the book. Anyone have experience with a substitute for this?
 
rodos18 said:
Another question- the fork damper requires a special tool to compress in order to re-install, according to the book. Anyone have experience with a substitute for this?
Click to expand...


Install the damper and spring into the upper part of the fork and screw on the cap. Then install the fork upper into the lower and snug up the damper bolt with an air impact gun.
 
rodos18 said:
Anyone know where I can find one of these?

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Click to expand...

You mean the cush drive? What do you think is wrong with it? If it still feels
like hard rubber it's in good shape. It absorbs the shock between engine and
Wheel.


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Nebr Rex - Thanks. The cush drive isn't torn or anything, just figured I'd replace it while I was in there and I wasn't sure what standard it had to meet to be reusable. I'm happy to reuse this one with a little clean up. Much appreciated!

Hillsy- Thanks, but the main thing was the compression of the piston ring, made out of plastic or plastic composite. There's a ridge inside that it has to compress slightly to get into. Nonetheless, I was able to wiggle the damper as I put it back in, and it slid right in with minimal effort.
 
The rear hub is coming along quite nicely. Wheel bearings, seals, and sprocket are all new since the originals were looking pretty rough.

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A little corrosion on the swing arm from the battery vent, which I understand to be a common occurrence. A question for anyone out there- am I correct that the tabs on the left of the swing arm are for the chain guard? The bike didn't come with one and I don't plan to get one, so I was thinking about cutting them off.

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rodos18 said:
A little corrosion on the swing arm from the battery vent, which I understand to be a common occurrence. A question for anyone out there- am I correct that the tabs on the left of the swing arm are for the chain guard? The bike didn't come with one and I don't plan to get one, so I was thinking about cutting them off.

20130918_162820_zps42fc2233.jpg
Click to expand...

Do you need to get the bike inspected / registered / titled? Chain guards are considered "safety items" in most countries so you might not pass an inspection if you don't have one. Probably best to check that out before you cut it off.
 
Sent the gauges out for a restoration. Great job from Z-Resto out of Georgia! I considered aftermarket gauges but I prefer the original style of these bikes.

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I made a paste of baking soda and water to neutralize the acid on the battery box. Rust converter comes next. The frame and swingarm had some as well. I considered repositioning the battery, but I'll be using the side covers so I'll just keep it where it is.

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